I have a TPA3116D2 powering two 500W RMS 12" subwoofers?

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realflow100

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Joined 2012
#1
I know its extremely underpowering the subs but I have bypassed the input diode (prevents it from getting scaldingly hot in that area.)
bypassed the power terminators. scratched away some surface and soldered directly onto the positive and negative before the terminals with 16awg wire and hooked up to a 600W DC boost converter running from a 12v battery. the voltage boosted up to 25.3v (close to 26v which is the rated maximum)
and I dont get any distortion. it powers the subwoofers decently but theres very little excursion above 25-30hz.
at 20hz and below the excursion of the subwoofers is absurd. flexing and making stuff vibrate like crazy. at 12hz I can see stuff across the room wiggling back and forth at 12hz.

it doesnt get hot or anything but I only payed 12$ for the amp on amazon.
I'm looking for an upgrade though. at normal listening volumes the subwoofers play beautifully. clear and deep. great sound quality with my cheap DUAL stereo speakers playing the highs and mids..
I'm looking around the 50$ or less range for a cheap amplifier that can push my subwoofers a bit more though. below 35hz the bass really drops off. hardly any sound is generated. I hear stuff vibrating a little but even at max volume theres not much volume generated. and the subs are barely moving. so I know theres plenty of room for more volume at around 25-35hz

it is this. but mine has different components for some reason. mine has all 100uH inductors/chokes instead of 330uH
Amazon.com : WINGONEER TPA3116D2 250W Digital Power Amplifier Board Class D DC12V 24V Dual Channel Audio Stereo AMP : Camera & Photo
i have 12awg cable for the subwoofers. (Very thick multi strand cable)
 
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#8
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#10
realflow100 said:
That sucks. I was really looking forward to a cheap decent amplifier.
Can you find me something similar price range that delivers a lot of power like it promised??

Maybe something like this?
Amazon.com: Planet Audio AC1000.2 Anarchy 1000 Watt, 2 Channel, 2/4 Ohm Stable Class A/B, Full Range, Bridgeable, MOSFET Car Amplifier with Remote Subwoofer Control: Car Electronics seems a bit better
Click to expand...

Chris is fully right in his estimations.

With a 13.2V battery voltage (when being charged) you can ideally (without any losses) get output power per channel of:

174 W in 1 Ohm,
87 W in 2 Ohm,
44 W in 4 Ohm,
22 W in 8 Ohm,
with a distortion around 1%. You can get higher values with distortion of 10% but it will sound terrible and be of no use.

For higher power than that, you need to increase (step-up/boost) the supply voltage. That has to be done with a converter that can supply an even higher power because you have losses in the amplifier. The converter will be quite big and dissipate quite a lot of heat. On top, the amplifier will dissipate a lot of heat.

For the last amplifier you propose, it is specified to be class A/B. A class A/B amplifier has a theoretical efficiency of 78% but in practice you can assume 70%. If that amplifier would supply 1000W, the heat loss would be good 300W for just the amplifier (without an eventual voltage converter). Can you imagine that chassis getting rid of 300W (+ evt. converter losses)?

For cheaper amplifiers, in particular car amplifiers, the output power per channel is almost always exaggerated, for car amplifiers heavily exaggerated and in many cases without any kind of reality. The laws of physics should apply anywhere in the world but apparently not in marketing.

A Merry Christmas even without 1000W.
 
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#13
SE mode...how does it work

Hi

after provided this board i had a closer look on SE mode. i the datasheet there is a pic with the SE mode . the SE mode has not so good THD and power but it is single ended mode ---> that should mean no switching, no distortions - its "like Class A"


if i look at the Datasheet 1 channel i can see coil 15µH - speaker -GND -Speaker- coil 15µH.
on the amp board i see 4 coils ok.
WQGNMJZ Kopfhorer-Verstarker, Digital Power: Amazon.de: Elektronik

but i see one terminal for 1 channel - and no coils for the subwoof output.
😕

please can somebody explain me how that works? eg. i connect an full range speaker on the left channel where is it connected really (compared to the diagram)
 

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#17
chermann said:
Hi

after provided this board i had a closer look on SE mode. i the datasheet there is a pic with the SE mode . the SE mode has not so good THD and power but it is single ended mode ---> that should mean no switching, no distortions - its "like Class A"
Click to expand...
This conclusion is definitely wrong.
Do not confuse SE-mode of class-D with SE-mode of tubes.
Nothing in common.
SE mode with class D is one half-bridge leg of the otherwise BTL, i.e. fullbridge topology.
BTL is superior to SE due to perfect symmetry that cancels most of the power supply noise. THD of BTL is superior for that reason, and there is no danger of bus pumping.
 
#18
voltwide said:
This conclusion is definitely wrong.
Do not confuse SE-mode of class-D with SE-mode of tubes.
Nothing in common.
SE mode with class D is one half-bridge leg of the otherwise BTL, i.e. fullbridge topology.
BTL is superior to SE due to perfect symmetry that cancels most of the power supply noise. THD of BTL is superior for that reason, and there is no danger of bus pumping.
Click to expand...


Thanks voltwide for explanation for SE mode. any idea how this is implemented in this amp/board..looks strange...?
 
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