Hi all, whilst stuffing the board, I accidentally bent over C15 which is one of the blue 0.22 micro farad MKT/MKS film caps.
I wanted to know if I'd damaged it so put my fluke DMM across the tails on the board and was surprised at the reading it said 1.87 micro farads, and the others on the board read 0.32 micro farads.
There are a lot of the resistors soldered on, so should I assume that I can't take readings of the caps as they are interacting with the resistors?
I check all components before soldering and know they were all 0.22 micro farads prior to installing on the board.
TIA
I wanted to know if I'd damaged it so put my fluke DMM across the tails on the board and was surprised at the reading it said 1.87 micro farads, and the others on the board read 0.32 micro farads.
There are a lot of the resistors soldered on, so should I assume that I can't take readings of the caps as they are interacting with the resistors?
I check all components before soldering and know they were all 0.22 micro farads prior to installing on the board.
TIA
Remote mounting advice of POT
Hi, it looks like the pot supplied (I got it from Head'n'hifi) is an Alps 10k.
I want to substitute it for a blue beauty, and I happen to have a 50K unit at home.
Questions: It looks like the grounds are on opposite sides, is that so?
Also, could I substitute a 10k for the 50k that I have in my box or do I need the 10k one?
For information, the unit that was supplied from Head'n'hifi is about 8mmx8mm 10mm square and is green, it has the following markings on it: 10, 3A, 51, 6V
Hi, it looks like the pot supplied (I got it from Head'n'hifi) is an Alps 10k.
I want to substitute it for a blue beauty, and I happen to have a 50K unit at home.
Questions: It looks like the grounds are on opposite sides, is that so?
Also, could I substitute a 10k for the 50k that I have in my box or do I need the 10k one?
For information, the unit that was supplied from Head'n'hifi is about 8mmx8mm 10mm square and is green, it has the following markings on it: 10, 3A, 51, 6V
When I do resistance checks, I get nearly 10k from 1 to 2 when knob is fully clockwise, and the same from 3 to 2 when fully anticlockwise (depending on which way up you look at the pins).
So which are the grounds?
Are they both logarithmic? I seem to have gleaned that logarithmic pots are for volume and linear for tone control. Am I right in that assumption?
Last edited:
Alps RK097 supplied with the kit is good enough. Using RK27 would require mounting it off the board and messing with wiring and it may be sensitive to picking hum. Also using 50k pot would increase noise substantially. Channel balance is ok if you don't use very bottom of scale. Just keep gain setting low and use pot from about 30 to 100%.
Many thanks for your reply BamboszeK, pot will be remote mounted regardless of which one I use. So what could I do to minimise hum?
Channel balance being ok you refer to, is that with reference to RK097 or RK27, or both?
I'll stick to 10k, but the shaft is quite short on supplied pot hence the use of RK27
RK27 may be slightly better in terms of channel balance but both are fine. To minimize hum keep wires short, ideally twisted pair or shielded. If you are mounting input jack off-board remember to cut those traces.
There's a connection diagram of the Alps RK27 on Tangents site
How to Wire Panel Components
Logarithmic for volume, I don't know about linear for tone though. A bit more interesting detail on the pots
Notes on Audio Attenuators
Thanks NealJ, that helps enormously.
I can follow a board with components printed on it, but going off-piste here with remote mounting and alternate components has left me searching for help.
No problem, I was the same. It can be quite difficult to find the real basic information at times.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.