ES9038Q2M Production

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Sergelisses

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Joined 2003
#1
Hi

It's not another thread bout the ES9038Q2M .
There is a very popular thread about it :
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/314935-es9038q2m-board.html

You can find many informations and details ....perhaps too many for the beginners or without realy experience .😱

I started a document for those who would like to embark on the adventure😛.

It's not a document for the "pro" 🙄

All comments will be appreciate .😀

If you find errors .....tell me 😉




Serge
 

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#2
Thanks for this, it's great to have all the mods gathered in one place versus digging through a ~ 300-page thread. That thread is incredibly insightful and should be read anyways, but it's good to have the "cliffnotes" version of the mods here.
 
#3
Hi,

The OSC modification is not an easy job .

The CRYSTEK CCHD-575-100-50 has not the same format than the original.

-1- it is hard to desolder the old OSC
-2- We must modify the PC ...
-3- It is hard to solder the new OSC ....


A better job would be to have a litlle PC for the CRYSTEK format


would anyone have an idea, a solution ...


Thanks

Serge
 
#4
Remove the old clock with this:Fast and Quik SMT Chip Removal Alloy Kit: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific It will fall right off once you get a nice big ball of this alloy on each of the 4 pins.

Clean up the pads of all old solder with this, but get in and out don't overcook them:
Chemtronics Desoldering Braid, Chem-Wik, Rosin, 10-50L 0.10", 50ft. - Solder Braid - Amazon.com

Clean off flux with this:
MG Chemicals 824-1L 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol Liquid Cleaner, Clear, 945 mL (1 US Quart): Soldering Tip Cleaners: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Also use this:
Acid/Flux Brush, Tin Ferrule, Horsehair, 5-3/4" Length, 5/16" Width （pack of 30 pieces): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific


Then clear a little bit of the ground plane away around the pads with this:
Amazon.com : X-ACTO #2 Knife With Safety Cap : Exacto Knife : Office Products

Now solder down the new clock, or skip the trimming with the Exacto knife and use some short wire leads to mount the clock just above the pads. Once you verify it works you could put a little of this under the clock to keep is in place:Clear Electronic Grade Silicone - 2.8 oz Squeeze Tube: Silicone Adhesives: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

I will leave it to Serge to post pictures.

Oh, one other thing, before you do any of that get one of these and use it:
https://www.amazon.com/Electronics-...D=51T1%2BlbNczL&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

See here how to do it:
YouTube

Serge can make a new video, post pics, or tell folks to watch at the links... 🙂
 
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#5
Of course there are other ways to do it too. The Chip Quik is like magic though, it is an expensive alloy to make, but it doesn't take much. There are youtube videos for using it too.

Also, you may not know it but you *need* Chemtronics solder braid. Most other brands are inferior, IME. Great stuff. Makes it easy to solder high density SMD chips too. If any bridges, you can easily remove them. In fact you can try making intentional bridges to solder down a part, then wick off the excess to finish. It can work amazingly will. Serge will post pics... 🙂

Thanks, Serge!!!
 
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#6
Markw4 said:
Of course there are other ways to do it too. The Chip Quik is like magic though, it is an expensive alloy to make, but it doesn't take much. There are youtube videos for using it too.

Also, you may not know it but you *need* Chemtronics solder braid. Most other brands are inferior, IME. Great stuff. Makes it easy to solder high density SMD chips too. If any bridges, you can easily remove them. In fact you can try making intentional bridges to solder down a part, then wick off the excess to finish. It can work amazingly will. Serge will post pics... 🙂

Thanks, Serge!!!
Click to expand...

Very good advices Mark.

I found this on ebay

10 PCS Active Oscillator Adapter PCB Board Converter For 7050 5032 3225 SMT B69 | eBay

Perhaps a good solution .

You keep the osc on the DAC board and you solder the CRYSTEK OSC on this PCB ......if there is a problem with the PCB you can always return with the OSC on the DAc board 😀

Serge
 
#7
An oscillator adapter board may be okay if the old clock is removed and the adapter board is kept a small fraction of an inch above the dac board where the old clock was. We need to remove the old clock because we don't want its RF output still running and capacitively coupling in with new clock signal. Also, we need to use the old clock power filtering for the new clock, and we need to keep the new clock very close to the PCB and and mechanically stable to preserve low jitter and to avoid stray coupling of RF coming out of the clock. Remember the ground return of the clock to the dac PCB is as important as the clock RF output signal. As always current flows in a loop and we need to make sure the whole loop is good. The closer the new clock is to the dac board and it's ground plane, the better the dac will run.
 
#10
Serge, One thing that I think is good about what you are doing is that you are showing people there is more than one way to do a particular job. It is sort of like first one removes the old parts, then look at the space available and what parts you need to add, then devise a plan to add the new parts, then do it and get it finished.

Also, if I may suggest some tips about taking pictures, sometimes I find there is a minimum distance at which my camera will focus, so I can't get too close. I also may need to brace my arm against something so I don't shake when I take the picture, again to help prevent blur. In addition, sometimes I wait until it is daylight and take the PCB over by a window where the light is good and natural so that the board is well lit. Those three things seem to help the most: light, best distance for focus, brace against motion while taking the picture.

Then I crop and adjust the picture if needed using the freeware 'irfanview' editor. One of the most powerful features is under the 'color correction' menu, where there is a 'gamma' slider. That can fix a lot of contrast problems better than contrast adjustments can.
 
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#17
Thank you Serge for another modding idea.

However, I would like to advise those folks who may be planning to build the through hole component output stage board that they should not attempt the +-15v power mod at this time because the opamp power will no longer be needed at this location. Also, some wires for the new output stage may be run through this area so best to leave it undisturbed for now.
 
#18
Great effort Serge! however all these power mods hit the original output stage wall.
the DAC is in voltage mode (what perhaps may be not so critical), and the original design has a major 3rd harmonic, regardless of what has been done to the AVCC, rails or what opamp used. btw stock NE5532 is pretty good there.
if the output is left at stock, adding extra capacitance to AVCC pins (470uF will be enough) is sufficient.
adding either 3-opamp or Victors i/V eradicates 3rd harmonic and unleashes power mods. for 3-opamp setup one may consider 2xLME49720 + AD797. the only advantage of discrete ones is that they usually work in classA.
 
#19
eziitis said:
Great effort Serge! however all these power mods hit the original output stage wall.
the DAC is in voltage mode (what perhaps may be not so critical), and the original design has a major 3rd harmonic, regardless of what has been done to the AVCC, rails or what opamp used. btw stock NE5532 is pretty good there.
if the output is left at stock, adding extra capacitance to AVCC pins (470uF will be enough) is sufficient.
adding either 3-opamp or Victors i/V eradicates 3rd harmonic and unleashes power mods. for 3-opamp setup one may consider 2xLME49720 + AD797. the only advantage of discrete ones is that they usually work in classA.
Click to expand...

btw stock NE5532 is pretty good there NO it's not true

With the tests I've done this weekend, the AOP sparkos buries all the others.
The ameliroation is very significant and you are no longer in the same range of listening.
I encourage anyone who wants to invest "a few euros" 😀 to try it.

I even think to replace the regulators NewclassD by Sparkos regulators and maybe to make a PCB with the regulators , a support 8 pins and two capa
......

Serge
 
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