Hi folks I am building a simple fourth order bandpass enclosure and I would like to make one of the panels removable. This panel is part of the sealed section so I need a really right seal.
What are folks using for a gasket type material to seal a removable panel?
What are folks using for a gasket type material to seal a removable panel?
Not particularly cheap except in long time serviceability, especially if the panel is periodically removed; I use/only recommend industrial grade neoprene specifically designed for it with Nema 5-12 being dust/water tight in sheltered outdoor apps, Nema 3R for rain-tight and Nema 4 for corrosive apps, though hopefully not an issue unless in equatorial and/or high density industrialization areas where metal parts can easily corrode if not fortunate enough to have the proper A/C, etc., to keep the environment at satisfactory levels.
Regardless of what you use, best not to drive mounting screws through it unless using a > ~ 1" wide strip and preferably with clearance holes properly punched in it.
Don't over tighten!! This is the #1 reason why they fail to properly seal long term and even air leaking around bolt threads can be sufficient to ruin a low tuned vented alignment. A 1/4 - 1/2 turn past the panel continuously touching is normally sufficient to seal this material and will have enough long term resiliency to keep it sealed.
GM
Regardless of what you use, best not to drive mounting screws through it unless using a > ~ 1" wide strip and preferably with clearance holes properly punched in it.
Don't over tighten!! This is the #1 reason why they fail to properly seal long term and even air leaking around bolt threads can be sufficient to ruin a low tuned vented alignment. A 1/4 - 1/2 turn past the panel continuously touching is normally sufficient to seal this material and will have enough long term resiliency to keep it sealed.
GM
Hmmm, it looks to me like however I do it there could be a potential compromise in the seal over gluing it in like the rest of the panels. I may be better off gluing, and clamping it and dealing with the fact that if the driver blows I destroy the box getting it out.
Top or bottom access is one way I've done with narrow cabs, rear mounted drivers. With top, I add a Velcro'd on decorative cover plate, preferably massive. The other is to mount the driver to a removable baffle.
GM
You dont have to go much over the counter. Paint the wood surfaces you gonna glue z(just a strip not an entire board) and seal with banded rubber you buy at rubber shops. The band should be half the diameter if the wood to do not fit out when pressed. Then do the hooking with philips screws (and don't forget to pre drill the holes, right). Last but most important, that "special" silicone people use in videos (mainly EXO's custom dismantling videos on YouTube) are simply water based silicon. You use this silicon to air tighten the exterior of you board/ rubber band fixture aince it is not impossible to remove.
I use cheap PU weather stripping tape. It is foamy stuff and compresses down to almost nothing. I'm not sure if it still reseals after an open/close cycle after a few years.
Me and untold numbers of manufacturers, DIYers, etc., over the decades have tried it all as each new product comes to market and in the end the only thing that one can be sure will reliably work long term are materials designed/tested/proven over time/cycles by NEMA, CSA or similar.
That said, I haven't used any of the most current rubber/whatever caulks designed for occasional panel/component removal, only know that earlier products didn't hold up well when subjected to numerous cycling designed for racing, etc., apps.
GM
That said, I haven't used any of the most current rubber/whatever caulks designed for occasional panel/component removal, only know that earlier products didn't hold up well when subjected to numerous cycling designed for racing, etc., apps.
GM
No one tried using silicone rope and a routed inset (aka gland) for a face seal? It's not too hard to glue together the ends. Parker Hannifin has very good literature/e-books on how to design proper o-ring seals (which is essentially what you'd be making).
Yes, that is one of a class of stuff that is "self-forming" gasketing. If the surfaces are at all irregular, it is the way to go.
I like familiar silicone sealer. Run a fat bead, cover with wax paper or SaranWrap, weight the removable panel on to it to form the perfect seal and wait till dry. Fast, easy, cheap, and precise without you having to be careful.
B.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.