Looked it up on audiojudgement. The distance has to be an entire wavelength to get the +3dB so that would make the required distrance even bigger. I don't think the baffle step is going to work for this one.
I've taken a look at the 6-1/2" version of the SB and it seems to have a break up at about 1,25 kHz. Dispersion is still perfect to about 2,5 kHz so that's good.
The 6-1/2" SEAS seems to have a breakup at 1 and just under 2 kHz that's a real bummer. It's moving mass is also 2,4 g higher than that of the SB so with pain in my heart because of it's aesthetics I think the SEAS is done for compared to the SB.
The 6-1/2" SEAS seems to have a breakup at 1 and just under 2 kHz that's a real bummer. It's moving mass is also 2,4 g higher than that of the SB so with pain in my heart because of it's aesthetics I think the SEAS is done for compared to the SB.
I'm really confused by this thread/ design goals.
seems to me that the (v good) drivers mentioned don't match together too well.
seems to me that the (v good) drivers mentioned don't match together too well.
Maybe it's just a 2nd language issue, but I'm not sure if you understand or are using the term baffle step correctly. See here - True Audio TechTopics: Diffraction Loss and attached for more info.
And try The Edge or BDBS (if you can get it working in Excel) to model the actual diffraction response more accurately.
And try The Edge or BDBS (if you can get it working in Excel) to model the actual diffraction response more accurately.
How so Bill?
I'm not really seeing any problems with this (if this is actually the current selection, maybe that's where the confusion is coming from?):
1 x Neo X3.0
1 x Satori 13P-8
2 x ES180Ti-8
Actually, I'm thinking that might turn out to be something special as long as Mr addict has about 30L net for the 2 woofers and executes the xo properly.
Yes that's the configuration. Because the 8 ohm version of a certain woofer has the same maximum output as the 4 ohm version but it just needs more power right?
I'm sorry I know the questions I ask might be pretty damn stupid especially when building such high grade speakers but hey, I'm only 15 years old and this is my first project from the ground up and yes than this project might be way too overkill for a first but I've got a "the best or nothing" mindset and I'm just way to obsessed with audio and with help from people like you this should be doable.
I'm sorry I know the questions I ask might be pretty damn stupid especially when building such high grade speakers but hey, I'm only 15 years old and this is my first project from the ground up and yes than this project might be way too overkill for a first but I've got a "the best or nothing" mindset and I'm just way to obsessed with audio and with help from people like you this should be doable.
I've got way more than enough volume available for the woofers. About 80 to 90 L which is way to big for these woofers for a normal ported enclosure so it's gonna be a transmission line, just got to get a hand of using the modeling software to calculate it.
These will be active towers with triple mono amplification controlled by two MiniDSP 2x4's as active crossovers and obviously DSP's.
One amplifierl for each layer providing more than enough power. All three amps are the same, Hifimediy T3 mono with the Jantzen caps upgrade. Even though they especially for the mid woofer and tweeter are way overkill in terms of power I chose them because they seem tube the best and highest quality for my application because it's the most straight forward amp they offer that doesn't have any unwanted, extra, potential difficulties on it like a for me useless volume knob. And that extra headroom is certainly not a bad because it limits distortion.
These will be active towers with triple mono amplification controlled by two MiniDSP 2x4's as active crossovers and obviously DSP's.
One amplifierl for each layer providing more than enough power. All three amps are the same, Hifimediy T3 mono with the Jantzen caps upgrade. Even though they especially for the mid woofer and tweeter are way overkill in terms of power I chose them because they seem tube the best and highest quality for my application because it's the most straight forward amp they offer that doesn't have any unwanted, extra, potential difficulties on it like a for me useless volume knob. And that extra headroom is certainly not a bad because it limits distortion.
Being devil's advocate. I'm using those same woofers (and ribbon's) in my current build and went through a list of mid candidates - I wd like to see this build be a success obviously
And just to be clear, I know I'm talking about how loud things need to get all the time and worrying about individual drivers not being able to get loud enough which might make me seem like the teenager who just wants everything to get as loud as possible but that's not the case. I just want everything to be well balanced and not limiting each other.
There's a 2 or 2.5 way MLTL design using these woofers on PE. Paul K's design I think. Due to the height, you may have to mount the mid above the tweet. Unless you fold the line
I really don't know what the line for the woofers is going to be but I reckon it's going to have so turns in it but what does the line line of the woofers have to do with the place of the mid? You were talking about the woofers chamber right? I'm talking about the woofers now.
The mid will be in a sealed enclosure for further improved impuls response and so no midrange sounds can leak through the port (if there was one). The woofers will be the transmission line for which I have 90 L available.
For the tweeter the height of the cabinet is perfect, it's my exact ear height (1,1 m) when sitting on the couch so I don't understand why the mid above it would be necessary.
The mid will be in a sealed enclosure for further improved impuls response and so no midrange sounds can leak through the port (if there was one). The woofers will be the transmission line for which I have 90 L available.
For the tweeter the height of the cabinet is perfect, it's my exact ear height (1,1 m) when sitting on the couch so I don't understand why the mid above it would be necessary.
The MLTL line length may necessitate that the mid enclosure wd need to be mounted above the height of tweeter, unless you fold the line, in which case the cab will be v deep or wide due to section area needed
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Placing the mid above the tweeter while keeping the tweeter at the same height is not an option, this design is already at the limits of how big things may get. I've already drawn it with the mid above the tweeter but that would get way to big.
But actually I just noticed I was stupid enough to have made a huge mistake again, I was calculating the Vb with the dimensions of a previous slightly bigger version of this concept without the 8,5 cm high feet under it. I hate myself. The actual volume of this design is around 50 L. Which still is pretty big so it's okay. I'm sorry to confuse you but now maybe the Vb is small enough for a normal bass reflex but I'll still try to make it a TL.
I'm sorry for my stupidity, again...
But actually I just noticed I was stupid enough to have made a huge mistake again, I was calculating the Vb with the dimensions of a previous slightly bigger version of this concept without the 8,5 cm high feet under it. I hate myself. The actual volume of this design is around 50 L. Which still is pretty big so it's okay. I'm sorry to confuse you but now maybe the Vb is small enough for a normal bass reflex but I'll still try to make it a TL.
I'm sorry for my stupidity, again...
By the way, when modeling the bass enclosure. Do you know if I should insert the full 100 watts RMS for the woofers or something lower because that full 100 watts will almost never be hit and if it does the sound coming from the woofers will be so loud any port noise is ignorable.
I was wondering because according to the modeling software I always need such massive ports but when the ports are too big it will get boxy.
I was wondering because according to the modeling software I always need such massive ports but when the ports are too big it will get boxy.
Can't see any stupidity, we are all learning this hobby and I make really basic mistakes all the time. Still cannot use xsim properly.
A nice rule of thumb is to model your port speed to start chuffing when there is enough power set to push the 2 drivers to xmax at the lowest frequency you'll be feeding them.
So for music, most content is above 40Hz. Using 20W with 2 of your woofers in parallel in 35L tuned to 33Hz gets you an F3 of 33Hz and max SPL of 104dB at 1m. Xmax is only exceeded with content below 30Hz. Port is 7cm x 29cm.
Shoot for something in that neighborhood. You may want to make the knee a little more gentle depending on your room gain.
So for music, most content is above 40Hz. Using 20W with 2 of your woofers in parallel in 35L tuned to 33Hz gets you an F3 of 33Hz and max SPL of 104dB at 1m. Xmax is only exceeded with content below 30Hz. Port is 7cm x 29cm.
Shoot for something in that neighborhood. You may want to make the knee a little more gentle depending on your room gain.
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