I'm working on replacing the burned out incandescent pilot lights in a '70's receiver with white LED's. Obviously, the mounting technique of the old bulbs will not work for the LED's.
I think I would just like to use a soft glue and plastic washer to hold the LED to the plastic where the bulb had been. Need something that should not harm the original plastic, and should cover gaps.
I'm thinking hot glue might damage the plastic, and epoxy might be so strong as to cause damage if the LED had to be repaired. I think silicone would do the trick, but thought I would ask the question in case there's something better.
I think I would just like to use a soft glue and plastic washer to hold the LED to the plastic where the bulb had been. Need something that should not harm the original plastic, and should cover gaps.
I'm thinking hot glue might damage the plastic, and epoxy might be so strong as to cause damage if the LED had to be repaired. I think silicone would do the trick, but thought I would ask the question in case there's something better.
A good alternative for some equipment.
LED Fuse Lamp for Marantz Sansui Kenwood Yamaha Sony - Cool Blue 8 Volt 5 Pack
Hot glue does not damage plastics,, it neither has solvents nor it gets *that* hot.
For easy removal hit it with freezing sprat which makes it fragile (while cold) and crack it away.
For easy removal hit it with freezing sprat which makes it fragile (while cold) and crack it away.
+1 for hot glue. Just be careful with the hot snot.
Alternatively, a marine adhesive might work. They're usually similar to contact cement in that they stay somewhat flexible after they set.
Tom
Alternatively, a marine adhesive might work. They're usually similar to contact cement in that they stay somewhat flexible after they set.
Tom
I've used Loctite 406 with some broken plastic center console facia surrounds etc in my old 1993 Nissan Skyline. Glues instantly, excess can easily be wiped away because its anaerobic and only set when there is no air present.
Not sure what you are saying but I thought RTV silicone was used for making molds and baking pans because it requires little to no release agent.
PVC cement for a permanent fix. Often overlooked for plain plastic. Just plain plumbers PVC cement.
Cyanoacrylate (Super Glue) works well if you use just a small drop. Holds enough, but can be popped loose if need be. I use it for gluing LEDs into wood.
Different application of silicone; this is more like the potting material used for use in protecting electronics in extreme vibration and moisture, is advertised as an adhesive/sealant.
Cheap and is at most hardware or car parts stores, where a high temperature version with iron oxide is available.
Hot melt isn’t very robust and will release after absorbing the moisture from the ambient air, not good for non-porous surfaces. Great for temporary holiday decorations though, but best left out of anything that plugs into the wall!
Cheap and is at most hardware or car parts stores, where a high temperature version with iron oxide is available.
Hot melt isn’t very robust and will release after absorbing the moisture from the ambient air, not good for non-porous surfaces. Great for temporary holiday decorations though, but best left out of anything that plugs into the wall!
ok, I was talking the two part RTV silicone you get at your local hardware store. The stuff you use for making brush-on type molds. I guess you are talking something I am not familiar with.
As far as hot melts, I have not run into moisture release concerns unless you are talking an ill prepared surface or a substrate that can absorb moisture causing the release from that side of things.
I have xo boards that go back many years and I can't think of one hot melt that has failed.
As far as hot melts, I have not run into moisture release concerns unless you are talking an ill prepared surface or a substrate that can absorb moisture causing the release from that side of things.
I have xo boards that go back many years and I can't think of one hot melt that has failed.
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