The woofer side is working but the tweeter side is dead. How would I troubleshoot which part is faulty?
Here's a link to the crossovers. I see two resistors with 5W3R6J and 5W4R7J, a black capacitor, and two of those wire coils (inductors?).
Here's a link to the crossovers. I see two resistors with 5W3R6J and 5W4R7J, a black capacitor, and two of those wire coils (inductors?).
Simplest answer: Swap tweeters. If the same speaker has a dead tweet it is the crossover. If the dead tweet moves, it is the tweeter.
Best,
E
Best,
E
Just measure the dead tweeter when disconnected from the cross over. If it's high impedance ( like 50 ohms or higher Or open circuit , it's the tweeter.
Just put any small speaker on the dead tweeters wires while the tweeter is disconnected from the crossover, if you hear some thing then it's likely the tweeter, if it's the crossover , most likely the capacitor, then check the resistors. Least likely the inductors unless they look burnt.
Just put any small speaker on the dead tweeters wires while the tweeter is disconnected from the crossover, if you hear some thing then it's likely the tweeter, if it's the crossover , most likely the capacitor, then check the resistors. Least likely the inductors unless they look burnt.
It's definitely the crossover so I'm trying to pinpoint what part failed. Are the capacitors usually wired in parallel and the resistors in series on the positive side?
Unfortunately I don't but this is the link to the set I have. I do have a voltmeter with resistance reading.
165 VB - Focal Polyglass 6.5" Component Speaker System
Looks like a simple first order, an inductor in series with the woofer, a capacitor in series with the tweeter.
There are 3.6R and 4.7R resistors for tweeter pad. See this schematic, the resistors may be interchanged,
or maybe even connected in series instead.
First see if there is continuity between neg in and either tweeter terminal.
https://www.digikey.com/schemeit/project/crossover-TJ33DRO30150/
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I'm seeing two coils on the focal link, rayma.
Something like this, I guess. Just do some resistor measurements on the low ohm scale. Shouldn't damage the tweeter.
You'd expect a crackle from the tweeter with a 1.5V battery across it too.
Check the soldering hasn't come away too.
Something like this, I guess. Just do some resistor measurements on the low ohm scale. Shouldn't damage the tweeter.
You'd expect a crackle from the tweeter with a 1.5V battery across it too.
Check the soldering hasn't come away too.
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Took me awhile but was able to determine that it was the selector switch that went bad. +3db sounded best to me so I found the solder points and soldered them together.
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