Yesterday morning I turned on my NAD 310 amp to find that the right channel wasn't producing any output at all, and also the power light wasn't coming on, even though the left channel is still working as normal.
I replaced all the fuses (plug + internal) and it wasn't them (and checked the speakers & cables just to be sure), so I've just spent the last couple of hours doing some basic continuity checks on all the right channel components (although I still have the transistors to check). Diodes, resistors and capacitors all appear to be working as normal, so presumably it must be one of the transistors? I suppose it could be the power supply, but afaik it just has one output that feeds both channels. And there are no bulging capacitors or anything else that looks burnt or otherwise damaged.
I'm just wondering if anyone has any alternate ideas as to what might have caused this? It was working perfectly the night before and all the time up to then as well, so I figure something must have given out when it was turned back on.
And as I said, the right channel is completely silent i.e. no crackling, fizzing, hissing etc. which, from my limited knowledge of electronics makes me think that a component has 'popped' suddenly, severing a connection, rather than a slow deterioration. I suppose it could be a cold solder joint(s) but in my experience those problems come on slowly.
If anyone can offer ideas I'd be very grateful.
I replaced all the fuses (plug + internal) and it wasn't them (and checked the speakers & cables just to be sure), so I've just spent the last couple of hours doing some basic continuity checks on all the right channel components (although I still have the transistors to check). Diodes, resistors and capacitors all appear to be working as normal, so presumably it must be one of the transistors? I suppose it could be the power supply, but afaik it just has one output that feeds both channels. And there are no bulging capacitors or anything else that looks burnt or otherwise damaged.
I'm just wondering if anyone has any alternate ideas as to what might have caused this? It was working perfectly the night before and all the time up to then as well, so I figure something must have given out when it was turned back on.
And as I said, the right channel is completely silent i.e. no crackling, fizzing, hissing etc. which, from my limited knowledge of electronics makes me think that a component has 'popped' suddenly, severing a connection, rather than a slow deterioration. I suppose it could be a cold solder joint(s) but in my experience those problems come on slowly.
If anyone can offer ideas I'd be very grateful.
Often controls and switches can develop a poor contact, and need cleaning.
Try actuating all the controls a few times. If the channel returns, give it a good cleaning.
Do you have the schematic and service manual? They're available at hifiengine.com (free, but you may need to register/login).
What test equipment do you have?
It sounds like you have a meter; anything else?
What test equipment do you have?
It sounds like you have a meter; anything else?
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'Quite a lot of possibilities there but not enough information yet to go further and make helpful suggestions.
Regarding the power amplifier section, the 310 is a very unusual, asymmetric output stage design and has a capacitor output, so no relays or even headphone sockets are used and this makes measurements a bit more involved. You will need to delve into the circuit and the PCB to make the basic voltage measurements if the fault is more serious than contacts. So, do you have a multimeter and basic tools?
Regarding the power amplifier section, the 310 is a very unusual, asymmetric output stage design and has a capacitor output, so no relays or even headphone sockets are used and this makes measurements a bit more involved. You will need to delve into the circuit and the PCB to make the basic voltage measurements if the fault is more serious than contacts. So, do you have a multimeter and basic tools?
Attachments
Thanks for that, I've just grabbed the schematic and service manual. I have a meter and some other tools, but not an oscilloscope unfortunately.
You looked at YouTube ? 2k7 resistors (131/132) and 47u electrolytics (125/127) are mentioned there, and soldercontacts volume potentiometer
Thanks for this, just checked both those resistors (must have missed them last night) and R132 appears to be open. Will replace and see if that fixes the problem (fingers crossed there isn't anything else going on).
Hey mate cheers again for your help, got it back up and running after replacing R132!
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