Almost any material can be used, if you know how to get the best out of it. MDF and ply are relatively simple to use, metals, glass, stone, etc, generally take far more understanding and are harder to use for DIY. If you work at a machine shop, stonemasons, glassworks (as I used to), then it might be worth using "exotic" materials.
Everything has resonances, be they high or low Q, and need controlling or using. My speakers are a birch ply/MDF sandwich with curved and sand filled outer panels. Very heavy, very thick and fairly dead. But nothing is totally dead, and some things (MDF, IMO) kill the sound. Stick to tried and tested DIY materials until you have enough experience to make your own mind up.
Everything has resonances, be they high or low Q, and need controlling or using. My speakers are a birch ply/MDF sandwich with curved and sand filled outer panels. Very heavy, very thick and fairly dead. But nothing is totally dead, and some things (MDF, IMO) kill the sound. Stick to tried and tested DIY materials until you have enough experience to make your own mind up.
Thank you
Regarding this:
So technically, creating a very well designed aluminum enclosure, can be as "hard" as simply designing it on a computer and clicking print..
You don't need to buy the printer, since metal 3D Printers are highly expensive. you can simply send it to one of the services online that do 3D Printing and support metal materials.
See this service for example:
https://www.shapeways.com/materials/
Tho the price for metal 3D Printing is not cheap at all. That's the only disadvantage..
Regarding this:
You know that today, it is possible to 3D Print objects not only with ABS/PLA, but also with metals..metals, glass, stone, etc, generally take far more understanding and are harder to use for DIY. If you work at a machine shop, stonemasons, glassworks (as I used to), then it might be worth using "exotic" materials
So technically, creating a very well designed aluminum enclosure, can be as "hard" as simply designing it on a computer and clicking print..
You don't need to buy the printer, since metal 3D Printers are highly expensive. you can simply send it to one of the services online that do 3D Printing and support metal materials.
See this service for example:
https://www.shapeways.com/materials/
Tho the price for metal 3D Printing is not cheap at all. That's the only disadvantage..
Allow me to use a ready-made quote:That's hardly DIY, then.
DIY can also stand for Design It Yourself
I don't know..And what is is the grain structure of printed aly?
But I do know the technique mostly used to melt the metal parts, is laser
This pendant for example, was made with metal 3D Printing:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Designing it on a computer takes less than a minute
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keep orbiting, spaceman - the audio nervosa analysis paralysis you're currently experiencing can last decades
Spaceman, just because something can be printed in aly doesn't mean it has any structural integrity.
And if you want to redefine DIY as Design It Yourself, you have understand the materials you wish to use.
And if you want to redefine DIY as Design It Yourself, you have understand the materials you wish to use.
So after all Balsa might be appropriate and even more appropriate than harder types of wood?
Yes, though this assumes of course that there's no need for any sort of durability/portability, i.e. kids, pets, etc.. Note too that it will need a fairly massive base, minor bracing unless fairly thick panels are used.
GM
Thank you
What do you mean by minor bracing?massive base, minor bracing
I hear some diyers use pine but to me it's to much to soft.
Good for high Qt drivers or where the panels are small, such as when using 1x4 thru 1x8 boards.
GM
BTW Dad, did you noticed that he is considering using the TC9 driver?
Isn't this the one folks are using in foamcore cabs, which BTW would be fine for his high Qt driver?
GM
OK .. i'm going to jump in here.... I think unless your going to play it louder than normal
wood material does not matter as long as its built solid.. I built a set of altec 19s... and everyone said do not use real wood.....The guy who built the cabinets told me the fronts and backs had to be plywood to keep the outside from cracking at a later time..
I have had them for 3 weeks and I don't hear anything that I don't think belongs.
I have played them LOUD A FEW TIMES.. but normally I listen to just louder then the human voice......I think the main thing with any speaker cabinet is it has to be solid so it cant flex.. the louder you play them the more solid the cabinet needs be..........
wood material does not matter as long as its built solid.. I built a set of altec 19s... and everyone said do not use real wood.....The guy who built the cabinets told me the fronts and backs had to be plywood to keep the outside from cracking at a later time..
I have had them for 3 weeks and I don't hear anything that I don't think belongs.
I have played them LOUD A FEW TIMES.. but normally I listen to just louder then the human voice......I think the main thing with any speaker cabinet is it has to be solid so it cant flex.. the louder you play them the more solid the cabinet needs be..........
Interesting point
Seems quite logic.
But I assume that unlike the enclosure's material, the enclosure's dimensions (and shape) probably do have an effect even on low and medium volumes, and not just high ones..
Is that right?
Seems quite logic.
But I assume that unlike the enclosure's material, the enclosure's dimensions (and shape) probably do have an effect even on low and medium volumes, and not just high ones..
Is that right?
(quote)The guy who built the cabinets told me the fronts and backs had to be plywood to keep the outside from cracking at a later time.
1+
1+
(quote)Been away, 2 tons for a 4' x 8' sheet (4608 sq.") ain't much pressure. On a 4" x 6" piece that would be 8-10 textbooks. Balsa will need about 1/4 the pressure of birch. So 3 textbooks should do.
There are many more things to take into consideration than how much pressure a plywood manufacturer applys to its lamination.
There are many more things to take into consideration than how much pressure a plywood manufacturer applys to its lamination.
SIZE DOES MATTER
The shape and size of the cabinet has everything to do with the sound...
I do think that some building materials might sound a little different at higher levels... but if there is sound deadening material used in the cabinet
its going to be less pronounced ...
Just my thinking but the cabinet structure is important ..
A speaker cabinet should be ridged..... but that's just common since..
The shape and size of the cabinet has everything to do with the sound...
I do think that some building materials might sound a little different at higher levels... but if there is sound deadening material used in the cabinet
its going to be less pronounced ...
Just my thinking but the cabinet structure is important ..
A speaker cabinet should be ridged..... but that's just common since..
Just my thinking but the cabinet structure is important ..
A speaker cabinet should be ridged..... but that's just common since..
Unless your building a thin wall lossy cabinet. BBC-style thin-wall cabinets. Why so special? - Harbeth: made in the UK since 1977 - the world's most natural sounding loudspeakers
Heres a bit of a forgotten one http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/mult...ead-i-found-lossy-cabinet-designs-harbeth.htm
Balsa, foam core or even Styrofoam will work well.
GM
If longevity isn't a concern. The Balsa shown is likely for R/C airplanes.
A good quality 1/2" seven ply will work for a small project. Lowes, Home Depot sells partial sheets.
There are many more things to take into consideration than how much pressure a plywood manufacturer applys to its lamination.
The highest pressure I have seen is to veneer pieces and that can run to 15 PSI. If you try that with balsa wood you will crush the wood. I get good results making curved loudspeaker cabinets at 2-3 psi using poplar with a two part epoxy. I don't use the formaldehyde leaking common adhesives.
I have tried about 20 different commercial adhesives and am happiest with the epoxy. It has good control over the viscosity and cure time. Normal PVA based adhesives required higher pressure and ended up not as durable. Not really a good choice, but for a small piece of balsa wood should do okay.
The hard part was originally sourcing the lamination wood. But I found one of the suppliers who was happy to sell it to me as long as I bought sizes thay already made. Shipping of course is tricky as the humidity in transit also has to be controlled.
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