Hi,
I have an old Alchemist Kraken integrated that I love (when it's working). The right audio channel quit years ago, and I got it repaired. Now it has quit again. The last time it quit, I got it repaired (15 years ago), and the guy replaced one of the transistors. It looks like he replaced the D1047 with an NTE36. It seems that it originally came with a B817 D 6FS, and a D1047 E 6L1. I can find plenty of transistors that match the first part of the number online (B817, and D1047), but none that match the second part of the number. Does that part matter, or is it just a manufacturer code or similar? Will any B817, and D1047 pair work? Are there better options available (such as the NTE version?)?
Any help would be greatly appreciated, as I'm no electronics expert (obviously), and don't know anyone local that I would trust to repair it.
Symptoms are no audio through right speaker outputs. If I connect to the pre-outs, through another amp, I get stereo, so it seems to be strictly the amplifier portion. The heat sink for the right stays cool, while the left gets hot. The transistors are bolted directly to the heat sink.
Thanks in advance,
Paul
I have an old Alchemist Kraken integrated that I love (when it's working). The right audio channel quit years ago, and I got it repaired. Now it has quit again. The last time it quit, I got it repaired (15 years ago), and the guy replaced one of the transistors. It looks like he replaced the D1047 with an NTE36. It seems that it originally came with a B817 D 6FS, and a D1047 E 6L1. I can find plenty of transistors that match the first part of the number online (B817, and D1047), but none that match the second part of the number. Does that part matter, or is it just a manufacturer code or similar? Will any B817, and D1047 pair work? Are there better options available (such as the NTE version?)?
Any help would be greatly appreciated, as I'm no electronics expert (obviously), and don't know anyone local that I would trust to repair it.
Symptoms are no audio through right speaker outputs. If I connect to the pre-outs, through another amp, I get stereo, so it seems to be strictly the amplifier portion. The heat sink for the right stays cool, while the left gets hot. The transistors are bolted directly to the heat sink.
Thanks in advance,
Paul
The second line of the part number begins with a letter (E,F etc) which is the gain or Hfe range of that particular transistor and ideally should match with the original part replaced. The second (6L1 etc.) is just batch coding and should be irrelevant.
However, now you probably need to buy replacement copies from China, given these are long obsolete Sanyo parts and you can't simply buy genuine new complementary pairs. Several manufacturers and generic parts re-labellers supply un-grouped parts with just the basic part type marking. These may work too but for best results, you may be better off replacing all output transistors with modern, Hfe grouped parts from authorized suppliers. Look at the OEM (Sanyo) specification or datasheet for the information referred to. e.g: HTTP 301 This page has been moved
If the amplifier has failed previously, it's likely this a repeat performance for similar reasons but there's no guarantee of what has failed without proper testing - the damage could be elsewhere too, meaning you could be wasting your time looking only at the output transistors. The first basic test,when there is no signal applied and speakers are disconnected, is to see if you have DC greater than 50mV or so at the output terminals, . You do need at least a $10 Multimeter to test any voltages though.
However, now you probably need to buy replacement copies from China, given these are long obsolete Sanyo parts and you can't simply buy genuine new complementary pairs. Several manufacturers and generic parts re-labellers supply un-grouped parts with just the basic part type marking. These may work too but for best results, you may be better off replacing all output transistors with modern, Hfe grouped parts from authorized suppliers. Look at the OEM (Sanyo) specification or datasheet for the information referred to. e.g: HTTP 301 This page has been moved
If the amplifier has failed previously, it's likely this a repeat performance for similar reasons but there's no guarantee of what has failed without proper testing - the damage could be elsewhere too, meaning you could be wasting your time looking only at the output transistors. The first basic test,when there is no signal applied and speakers are disconnected, is to see if you have DC greater than 50mV or so at the output terminals, . You do need at least a $10 Multimeter to test any voltages though.
Amplifiers don't blow up for no reason.
Shorts on the output will blow up output transistors.
Check speaker leads and speakers are OK.
While the transistors are out check all other components.
When you are certain all bad components have been replaced.
Check the power supply volts are ok.
Turn bias down to min volts.
Power up the amp with a mains lamp in series with it to limit current.
Check for DC on output with no speaker connected.
Set bias to correct level.
Shorts on the output will blow up output transistors.
Check speaker leads and speakers are OK.
While the transistors are out check all other components.
When you are certain all bad components have been replaced.
Check the power supply volts are ok.
Turn bias down to min volts.
Power up the amp with a mains lamp in series with it to limit current.
Check for DC on output with no speaker connected.
Set bias to correct level.
Thanks for the information guys. If I remember correctly, the first time it blew, I had to get the woofer replaced in my speaker as well. It was burned out, so there may have been a short in the speaker? I do have a multimeter. What will it tell me if I do the test and find that it has greater than 50mV at the output? Where should I have the volume set, or will that matter with no signal connected? Again, pardon my ignorance. I am totally not an electronics guy.
Paul
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