I picked up a pair of Infinity IL-40 floorstanders for really cheap from the C-list to use while I take my home build down to have professionally painted.
I read where they are lacking in the bass area and to me they actually sounded pretty darn good, but me being the mad tinkerer that I am decided to add a sub to the speaker.
I have a couple of Tang Band 6 1/2 subwoofers, model W6-1139SIF to be exact, they're 4 ohm subs. So I cut a hole in the bottom of the box, below the crossover/hook up plate, mounted them and tapped into the Woofer circuit out to the Woofer which is 8ohm.
It defiantly added a little punch to the speaker and sounds good, not audiophile or anything but I can tell the difference.
I'm just wondering if I should have tapped straight to the power input or is tapping into the Woofer like I did the optimum thing to do.
I'd post a pic but can't figure it out from the iPad.
Any opinions?
Thanks Much,
David.
I read where they are lacking in the bass area and to me they actually sounded pretty darn good, but me being the mad tinkerer that I am decided to add a sub to the speaker.
I have a couple of Tang Band 6 1/2 subwoofers, model W6-1139SIF to be exact, they're 4 ohm subs. So I cut a hole in the bottom of the box, below the crossover/hook up plate, mounted them and tapped into the Woofer circuit out to the Woofer which is 8ohm.
It defiantly added a little punch to the speaker and sounds good, not audiophile or anything but I can tell the difference.
I'm just wondering if I should have tapped straight to the power input or is tapping into the Woofer like I did the optimum thing to do.
I'd post a pic but can't figure it out from the iPad.
Any opinions?
Thanks Much,
David.
If the new drivers are sharing space with the original driver, then yes, you are quite accurately called a 'mad tinkerer.'
And you say you just tapped into the woofer circuit? Doubly mad I say....
And you say you just tapped into the woofer circuit? Doubly mad I say....
Hahaha.....well at least I'm accurate. Yes they all share the same space best I can tell, and the box is ported. So I'm guessing it's that's the best way to go.
So I'm not quite sure, what's your point?
I think I'm just asking if there's a better way to wire the sub in ?
Is it not a fair and legitimate question.
I think I'm just asking if there's a better way to wire the sub in ?
Is it not a fair and legitimate question.
"better way to wire the sub " - the subs should have their own box, & the simplest way to wire them in is to add an inductor between the existing woofer & the sub. The size of the inductor will be determined by where they need to be crossed over, do you have any freq. response measurements for the IL-40s?
Thanks Pete,
No I have no way to measure the response. I understand the sub should be in its own box. But there's plenty of speakers with subs added in a floorstanding box.
I don't know, maybe it was stupid to ask and I'm way over my head amongst you experts.
Maybe I'm better to lurk than to ask....🙁.
So much for participating, I do enjoy reading though.
No I have no way to measure the response. I understand the sub should be in its own box. But there's plenty of speakers with subs added in a floorstanding box.
I don't know, maybe it was stupid to ask and I'm way over my head amongst you experts.
Maybe I'm better to lurk than to ask....🙁.
So much for participating, I do enjoy reading though.
Hi David,
I think you are very unconventional at modding stuff.😀
Before we can say that there is something to be done about the engine (drive units), let's examine the gearbox first (XO filter). IL40 is a pretty large box with an 8" woofer which should be able to provide us with enough of bass tones, so assuming that it's true what they say about bass lacking, the obvious places to look would be the box tuning and XO filter. The user manual says XO point is 600 Hz and 2500. I wonder what the filter looks like.
Do you see yourself capable of measuring impedance just by following the guidelines provided in internet? It's a bit a lot to ask.
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Actually, even the subs integrated in the floorstanding boxes do have separate boxes of their own (integrated in the same floorstander), which are not shared with other drivers from the same floorstanding loudspeaker.
You made a big mistake. Even worse with connecting the Tang Band drivers to the existing Infinity crossover.
Remove Tang Band drivers from Infinity boxes and carefully seal the openings - add a MDF plate over the opening and glue it. Build another box (vented) with 1 cubic foot internal volume, connect serially two Tang Band drivers (to get 8 ohm), by and install subwoofer plate amplifier (100 - 150W at 8 ohm), tune the bass-reflex tube to 35 Hz, and enjoy.
Ok, thanks you guys for that. I guess that's something to consider down the road if I keep these. I enjoy working with the wood and could add the plate amp and all.
But for now I think I'll just enjoy them, with a rear firing woofer 🙂.
But for now I think I'll just enjoy them, with a rear firing woofer 🙂.
seeing the goal is simply more bass, perhaps the easiest thing (now that the placement decision has been made🙂 is to cross the Tangband over at the baffle step frq. The width of the IL40 is 254mm, which gives a baffle step freq of 450Hz; The impedance of the Tangband is ~10 ohms at 450Hz, so the nearest preferred value of inductor to use is 3.3mH. I'd use a ferrite core inductor for min. resistance, connect it in series with your woofer. (However, if you're happy with the sound, & you may not be getting many highs from the rear firing Tangband, leave as is...)
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