Bangla, I've never been a horn fan, but perhaps I should widen my horizons. I don't know much about them, so I need to do some research.
I don't want large speakers, so I have been considering the Fusion Waveguide Alchemy 8" kits. They advertise a sensitivity of 94 db, which should work well.
Thanks for the info. Definitely highway robbery.
It seems a part of the problem is that the store software is not
picking up all the shipping options, for example, priority mail
international instead of priority mail express. (A few months
ago I ordered something and Jason had to manually invoice me
to get the correct shipping option.)
Have you shared your experience with the store? You might
email Jason with a link to your post and perhaps they might be
able to configure the store software to show more shipping options.
The store can't stop the ridiculous brokerage fees, but they may
be able to help us avoid UPS in the first place.
Thanks,
Dennis
why lytic , at all ?
Icar motor run cap , considering that you're in EU
besides audio gains , you can always use your amp to wash some underwear .........
Icar motor run cap , considering that you're in EU
besides audio gains , you can always use your amp to wash some underwear .........
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what's xover frequency for your JBL driver ?
take that in account , calculate size of cap by formula C=1/(2 x Pi x Rdc x F) , where F is octave lower than xover frequency
so , for 1K and 8R (for example) , you'll need something in 40uF vicinity
so, see that we are not even in hundreds area anymore , let alone thousands of uF
take that in account , calculate size of cap by formula C=1/(2 x Pi x Rdc x F) , where F is octave lower than xover frequency
so , for 1K and 8R (for example) , you'll need something in 40uF vicinity
so, see that we are not even in hundreds area anymore , let alone thousands of uF
tanks for your reply Zen Mod
i will used active xover , and the freq will be 1 khz , the driver is 16 ohms .
for the cap , i am talking about the C1 on the schematic
http://www.diyaudio.com/media/files/articles/ampcamp1/ampcamp1_placement.png
.
i will used active xover , and the freq will be 1 khz , the driver is 16 ohms .
for the cap , i am talking about the C1 on the schematic
http://www.diyaudio.com/media/files/articles/ampcamp1/ampcamp1_placement.png
.
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so , 20uF solid cap , bypassed with 0u47 to 1uF
as I said - my fave are Icar motor run , bypassed with MKC (polycarbonat)
you choose your own ......
you can even make double output posts , one for regular big elco (full range output , if you ever need it) and one for small cap (HF output)
as I said - my fave are Icar motor run , bypassed with MKC (polycarbonat)
you choose your own ......
you can even make double output posts , one for regular big elco (full range output , if you ever need it) and one for small cap (HF output)
I remember one or more people were going to swap out the 3300uF output cap with three 1000uF Silmic II caps. Can one of you chime in on your result? On my ACA I swapped out the 10uF Silmic II input cap with an oil filled motor run and only noticed a small improvement, so the Silmic II really impresses me for the cost and size. And yes, a 4700uF will work fine. However, finding a 20uF or larger motor run for a reasonable price should be easy. I think motor run caps (at least the NOS that I have used) are a relatively unknown big bang for the buck.
there's something i am not understanding about the cap C1 ( the output one) .
the choice is from 20 uf to 4700 uf ( big range !! ) depending of the output driver/xover ?
and for me 20 uf will be good , because of my 1khz cutoff and driver ohms ?
am i right !!
icar motor cap seems to be AC cap , DC voltage should go through C1 ?
i am not dumb , but not specialist either ;-)
.
the choice is from 20 uf to 4700 uf ( big range !! ) depending of the output driver/xover ?
and for me 20 uf will be good , because of my 1khz cutoff and driver ohms ?
am i right !!
icar motor cap seems to be AC cap , DC voltage should go through C1 ?
i am not dumb , but not specialist either ;-)
.
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you need bass - big cap
no bass-small cap
music is AC ,while cap is there to block DC
you can make a test - use any cap , connect your badass spks through it to your car battery ..... you'll hear only tiny puck
remove cap, connect spk, next stop is dealer - you'll need new speaker , instead of fried one
no bass-small cap
music is AC ,while cap is there to block DC
you can make a test - use any cap , connect your badass spks through it to your car battery ..... you'll hear only tiny puck
remove cap, connect spk, next stop is dealer - you'll need new speaker , instead of fried one
Cobbled Together an ACA 2.1 System
Since these little amps were performing so well, I decided to see what they could do in a real 2.1 system. No one seemed to think they could crank sound out of my low-sensitivity speakers at an appreciable level without clipping. "Six watts? (snicker into sleeve) Ha! Get out! No way!" they said....
So here we go:
1) Started with FLAC files on NAS
2) Piped into home-built PC with Intel DZ87KLT-75K motherboard, onboard Realtek HD audio
3) Optical output to Schiit Modi 2 DAC
4) Analog signal to Schiit Magni 2 Uber Headphone amp on low boost setting - signal is split coming out of here
5) Unfiltered signal to a pair of B&W CM1s, sensitivity 84dB
6) Unfiltered signal to minidsp - filtered out to Yamaha P2500S 250 watts per channel - CSS Duet SDX12 sealed subwoofer
I put on some acoustic blues and used my phone sound meter app to measure sound levels. I'll use the Umik-1 mike later to get some real measurements. This was just a quick check, and to shut up the detractors.
One meter away, I measured up to 85 db sound. I stopped here because the subwoofer was rattling things on the shelf, and my better half started throwing things (quit trying to impress your friends, she yelled). Also, any louder would have hurt our ears. I also measured up to the same level with the subwoofer shut off. No rattling, but still really loud, clear, warm sound, no apparent clipping (this is by ear only, no measuring/monitoring).
Anyway, the detractors of a six watt system have somehow, inexplicably and completely, disappeared.
"Hey, can you help me build a couple of those?"
"These things are cool - gettin' me some!"
"Sorry I dissed your system - can I borrow it?" (Answer was NO)
They also expected the subwoofer to overwhelm the CM1s, which it did not, it was nicely balanced.
And I had not reached the top end. I could have cranked the signal on the audio card, or set the headphone amp for high boost, or both. And there was a little room left on the volume control. Of course, at some point I would expect to run into some sound quality issues. But it would be WAY over my normal listening levels.
I had been hunting down high-sensitivity speaker kits to pair with these amps. No longer. This system works for me.
Since these little amps were performing so well, I decided to see what they could do in a real 2.1 system. No one seemed to think they could crank sound out of my low-sensitivity speakers at an appreciable level without clipping. "Six watts? (snicker into sleeve) Ha! Get out! No way!" they said....
So here we go:
1) Started with FLAC files on NAS
2) Piped into home-built PC with Intel DZ87KLT-75K motherboard, onboard Realtek HD audio
3) Optical output to Schiit Modi 2 DAC
4) Analog signal to Schiit Magni 2 Uber Headphone amp on low boost setting - signal is split coming out of here
5) Unfiltered signal to a pair of B&W CM1s, sensitivity 84dB
6) Unfiltered signal to minidsp - filtered out to Yamaha P2500S 250 watts per channel - CSS Duet SDX12 sealed subwoofer
I put on some acoustic blues and used my phone sound meter app to measure sound levels. I'll use the Umik-1 mike later to get some real measurements. This was just a quick check, and to shut up the detractors.
One meter away, I measured up to 85 db sound. I stopped here because the subwoofer was rattling things on the shelf, and my better half started throwing things (quit trying to impress your friends, she yelled). Also, any louder would have hurt our ears. I also measured up to the same level with the subwoofer shut off. No rattling, but still really loud, clear, warm sound, no apparent clipping (this is by ear only, no measuring/monitoring).
Anyway, the detractors of a six watt system have somehow, inexplicably and completely, disappeared.
"Hey, can you help me build a couple of those?"
"These things are cool - gettin' me some!"
"Sorry I dissed your system - can I borrow it?" (Answer was NO)
They also expected the subwoofer to overwhelm the CM1s, which it did not, it was nicely balanced.
And I had not reached the top end. I could have cranked the signal on the audio card, or set the headphone amp for high boost, or both. And there was a little room left on the volume control. Of course, at some point I would expect to run into some sound quality issues. But it would be WAY over my normal listening levels.
I had been hunting down high-sensitivity speaker kits to pair with these amps. No longer. This system works for me.
Here are some measurements on your speaker: SoundStage! Measurements - B&W CM1 Loudspeakers (5/2007)
And another: http://www.audioholics.com/bookshelf-speaker-reviews/bw-cm1/cm1-measurements-and-analysis
It helps put your review in context.
Best,
Anand.
And another: http://www.audioholics.com/bookshelf-speaker-reviews/bw-cm1/cm1-measurements-and-analysis
It helps put your review in context.
Best,
Anand.
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