An extremely mild solution of Sulfuric might work, too. Won't attack the natural oxide on the aluminum (like NaOH, or anything with chlorine), and if mild enough, won't really attack the toner either.
We're talking MILD, though.
We're talking MILD, though.
The toner gets baked onto the panel and adheres to the metal. So it just a matter of getting the film dissolved. I'm borrowing the process from the crafty folks. For what they do it doesn't matter so much if the film isn't completely removed.
If the film bakes on okay it can be left on. However there is a dextrose mucilage to allow the decal film to slide off the paper backing. The baking can leave a caramelized brown on the film
Look here.
Waterslide Decals Cured in Your Home Oven - The Artful Crafter
The page suggests turpentine but I think that will remove the toner for sure.
OK, thanks for the info. Sounds about right for the U.S. When I arrived in '92, no one was talking tubes much, certainly not SET. It was already a big deal in Europe and Japan.
I asked Dennis Had, who founded Cary Audio, if he had gotten the SET bug from Europe or Japan. He said no, he had seen the 300B at the tube store when he was a kid, and just knew he had to have 'em! 🙂
I don't see how turpentine would be the smart choice for pure dextrose--and the way the site describes it suggests there's something else in there (a wax). Yes, an organic solvent would be useful for the wax, but you want something rather polar for the sugar component.
I'm talking a mild enough solution where the cellulose of the paper would not be attacked with any sort of speed (you'd still want to peel it off).
In the 80s i used letraset pressure release dry transfer and a matte fixer sprayed on, aka clear coat. Worked great. With the onset of PCs graphic art supplies disappeared.
The spa chemicals are used in PCB resist negative films but these I thinks are different material.
Albert E. isnt down playing the math.... he did an awful lot of math himself. What he is saying is that the concept or insight comes first... then the math. Not the other way around.
Just as in your case.
[LLNL has a Computations department.... if you need a lot of math, you can rent one of these guys, to do math programmming etc. for you.]
THx-RNMarsh
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Way too rich for my blood. They announced a p-ch fet just recently to compliment a n-ch fet they already have. $8.66 each in qty of 1000
Go single ended with the BF862.
The quietest JFET on the planet - measured against the LSK's and a few others by Dimitri.
The quietest JFET on the planet - measured against the LSK's and a few others by Dimitri.
Give a wipe of mineral spirits. Wondering if that will help break up the wax while still being very mild to the toner underneath. Then you can use water/soap for the remainder of the cleanup.
My question would be - Why do you need the decal sheet? Is it just a way to get the most toner over the panel? If it is the heat that is fusing the toner to the panel, the cornstarch carrier isn't needed as the adhesive, it's just used to hold the toner in place while you transfer it.
I suppose you have tried the special heat transfer papers instead of the decals? If done right, you can get a large amount of toner off the paper and onto the substrate. It's similar to what you are doing, but heat transfer instead of water.
There are now inkjets "printable" aluminum panels that look superb for photographs. There are actually done via a dye sublimation process with heat. I used to print special tiles this way, too. And of course there are heat transfer T-shirt materials.
The decal sheet film is transparent so you can see what you doing. There not much limit in terms of time for getting things lined up. It's easy to work with.
They have something called self-weeding laser transfer paper I might even give it a shot. I suppose you could punch out a few feducial holes.
I tried once, early on in the development of a tube front-end for my new LCR ckt to cascode the BF862 with both halves of a 6dj8 paralleled. I couldn't get it to bias up with the tube. Had to go back to some NOS 2sk170 I had lying around to get the rest of the circuit done. I'm trying both sections paralleled of 2SK2145-BL now. They work, but a bit weak in gain.
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davada,
In the distant past I remember just having a panel done by an anodizer and they would also do etched lettering or some kind of printed letters. a common practice for making one off electronic panels.
The other question is have you asked the maker of the decal if they have a simple solution that we are all missing? I remember the letraset sheets of lettering in all kinds of sizes, has that completely disappeared or do some graphic artist still use those? I think I still have some put away with some old art supplies somewhere. Actually I just Googled letraset and they are still available in sheets just as they always were. A clear coat over the lettering and you'd be set.
In the distant past I remember just having a panel done by an anodizer and they would also do etched lettering or some kind of printed letters. a common practice for making one off electronic panels.
The other question is have you asked the maker of the decal if they have a simple solution that we are all missing? I remember the letraset sheets of lettering in all kinds of sizes, has that completely disappeared or do some graphic artist still use those? I think I still have some put away with some old art supplies somewhere. Actually I just Googled letraset and they are still available in sheets just as they always were. A clear coat over the lettering and you'd be set.
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