Hi,
This is my design, it's 54 x 56 x 64 centimeters.
I don't have any tools to build it, so if it's economical I'll buy the panels pre-cut with the necessary holes and everything, and then I'll assemble it myself.
I'd like to know the minimum number of clamps that I'll need to buy.
I'm trying to save as much as possible.
Also, do they all have to be at least 54cm long, or do I also need smaller ones?
Thanks.
This is my design, it's 54 x 56 x 64 centimeters.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I don't have any tools to build it, so if it's economical I'll buy the panels pre-cut with the necessary holes and everything, and then I'll assemble it myself.
I'd like to know the minimum number of clamps that I'll need to buy.
I'm trying to save as much as possible.
Also, do they all have to be at least 54cm long, or do I also need smaller ones?
Thanks.
So it's doable with either 2 clamps or 2 ratchet straps?
This doesn't help as I'm trying to go the cheapest route possible. 🙂
You will need clamps for the port. I would say two clamps and two straps minimum.
As Marce told you, you can never have too many clamps.
I am being serious and trying to help having lots of experience with woodwork, hire clamps if you have to; to do the job, you need a airtight solid enclosure for a sub (or any speaker)...
Or lay it on a hard flat surface and use weight as well as a couple of clamps to hole the enclosure together. If you get incomplete sealing and air leaks all your work is in vain as they are a pain to seal afterwards!
🙂
Or lay it on a hard flat surface and use weight as well as a couple of clamps to hole the enclosure together. If you get incomplete sealing and air leaks all your work is in vain as they are a pain to seal afterwards!
🙂
You're right, so I'll get two clamps and two straps, and I'll start by gluing the port parts to the front and bank panels, and then I'll glue the brace with the clamps, and eventually I'll add everything else and use 2 clamps and 2 ratchet straps.
Does this make sense? 😀
I know you're trying to help, it's just that I can't afford as many clamps as I want and you weren't being specific with numbers, so your reply could have been interpreted as 10 clamps at least, or even more.
with those dimensions, personally I would go with a minimum of three clamps per side that you are gluing. that's roughly one every 20cm. You may get away with two if you use a caul.... For the figure you have shown, that would be three clamps across the top and three across the bottom. I would add another two in the middle at the brace point as well.
That is 8...
Another option is screwing. If you don't rebate or use dowel's it will help (and effectively acts as a clamp). You would be surprised how much a joint will slip around if it's just a butt joint, with only glue and clamps.
Tony.
That is 8...
Another option is screwing. If you don't rebate or use dowel's it will help (and effectively acts as a clamp). You would be surprised how much a joint will slip around if it's just a butt joint, with only glue and clamps.
Tony.
OK so buying clamps is not economic at all and I don't know anyone who has them.
What about this fancy tool called Kreg R3 (Jig Jr.) (or alternatives from other companies)?
Can it replace clamps and ratchet straps?
I worry about all the holes that it would create in the wood, will I need to fill them later?
And do I need proprietary screws for such a device?
What about this fancy tool called Kreg R3 (Jig Jr.) (or alternatives from other companies)?
Can it replace clamps and ratchet straps?
I worry about all the holes that it would create in the wood, will I need to fill them later?
And do I need proprietary screws for such a device?
My preferred choice when doing cabinet work is dowels, using a doweling jig. The advantages are the face of the wood is left unblemished (critical if you go for a high gloss finish), joint strength is far superior and with the use of a jig alignment is ensured whilst the glue is drying.
Here I am trying to glue up my Curvy Chang cabinets (6 foot high), the use of dowels was critical. Doweling jigs are quite cheap I would look into them, they do help...
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/106911-curvy-chang-thread-14.html#post1298846
This shows the braces being put on, the dowels are visible here as they were to far from the edge for my jig at the time.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...1190892249-curvy-chang-thread-picture-012.jpg
Here I am trying to glue up my Curvy Chang cabinets (6 foot high), the use of dowels was critical. Doweling jigs are quite cheap I would look into them, they do help...
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/106911-curvy-chang-thread-14.html#post1298846
This shows the braces being put on, the dowels are visible here as they were to far from the edge for my jig at the time.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...1190892249-curvy-chang-thread-picture-012.jpg
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If you don´t mind a few screws from the outside, you can use zero clamps. This requires the boards to be flat and somewhat precise as the screws cannot force the wood very much.
Screw-holes can off course be filled before paint or screws replaced with dowels when the glue is dry. Depends on what kind of finish you want on the final cabinet.
Screw-holes can off course be filled before paint or screws replaced with dowels when the glue is dry. Depends on what kind of finish you want on the final cabinet.
Well, as I pretty much gave up on ordering an assembled box from a carpenter due to cost (and I did want to have some hands-on fun with the assembly, and also the tools to build speakers in the future), a carpenter to whom I sent a photo of the sketch earlier returned to my call and said that the cost to cut and assemble this enclosure would be $50, which is by far the cheapest offer I've received.
He did tell me that the holes might not be cut perfectly precise, because he'll be cutting them manually. I'm not sure if that means that he'll be using a jigsaw or whatever.
Anyway, the reason I'm mentioning all this is because I'm sure many beginning DIYers have to deal with less than perfect speaker holes from time to time, and I guess I'm asking if it's not a deal breaker in a sub box.
I also wonder if the piece of adhesive rubber that came with my Infinity 1260 is meant exactly for this, to seal the speaker hole after the speaker is installed.
He did tell me that the holes might not be cut perfectly precise, because he'll be cutting them manually. I'm not sure if that means that he'll be using a jigsaw or whatever.
Anyway, the reason I'm mentioning all this is because I'm sure many beginning DIYers have to deal with less than perfect speaker holes from time to time, and I guess I'm asking if it's not a deal breaker in a sub box.
I also wonder if the piece of adhesive rubber that came with my Infinity 1260 is meant exactly for this, to seal the speaker hole after the speaker is installed.
Unfortunately the entry price to this hobby (tool wise) can be expensive. Personally if you are doing your own woodworking I'd say a jigsaw (preferably a circular saw) and a router are mandatory. a quite a few clamps as well.
You can get away with less clamps. Some people use weights on the boxes to exert force. The strap type clamps are good too (I also use them) but may not be any cheaper than F-Clamps (though two probably does the job of four to six normal clamps depending on how you use them.
This build of mine (much smaller scale, it is only a tiny box with 4" driver) might give some ideas. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full...25-4-full-range-build-thread.html#post3305304
Tony.
You can get away with less clamps. Some people use weights on the boxes to exert force. The strap type clamps are good too (I also use them) but may not be any cheaper than F-Clamps (though two probably does the job of four to six normal clamps depending on how you use them.
This build of mine (much smaller scale, it is only a tiny box with 4" driver) might give some ideas. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full...25-4-full-range-build-thread.html#post3305304
Tony.
Yes, it does require some tools that I don't have and that are expensive where I live.
I also recommend just using wood screws (and glue) and avoiding clamps if you're trying to save money.
Well, I already ordered the build from a carpenter. It should be cheaper than buying the panels and the tools and doing it myself, though I did want to have some fun and build it myself.
you can always ask the carpenter to let you join in on the fun, but the labour rate for that is usually higher 😉
Haha, that would be somewhat awkward.
I bought glossy black and glossy white paints today, my sub is silver and I finally found inspiration for colors that go well with silver in the Jamo J112:
Kreg joints will make a very good carcase, you can buy a basic pocket-hole jig for less money than two decent sash cramps. I would still get a couple of ratchet straps to pull things together while you screw in the pocket hole screws.
I really, really wanted to get the Kreg Junior Pocket Hole Jig, but it's $100 where I live (and just $35 on Amazon.com), plus the MDF panels would have cost me another $80 or so, so it was more economical to just pay $160 for someone to build it for me.
I didn't even include ratchet straps in the calculation. And I think clamps are needed for the panels that comprise the port (can't get ratchet straps on those).
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