Hi members,
A questions here ... Just Fried the voice coil of one of My Favourite 12" inch subwoofer driver ... and i just dont wanna throw it away ... thinking of convert it into a passive radiator driver ... how do i do so? isnt it just mount it as a passive driver in the enclosure and left the voice coils unconnected? and add an active driver ... or any modifications needed? thx
A questions here ... Just Fried the voice coil of one of My Favourite 12" inch subwoofer driver ... and i just dont wanna throw it away ... thinking of convert it into a passive radiator driver ... how do i do so? isnt it just mount it as a passive driver in the enclosure and left the voice coils unconnected? and add an active driver ... or any modifications needed? thx
Why not buy a new voicecoil, it will save you buying another drive unit to power the Passive Radiator?
Why not buy a new voicecoil, it will save you buying another drive unit to power the Passive Radiator?
Already bought a new driver for the current sub box ... this is for experiment purpose about passive radiator ... since now the sub is broken ... seems like a good one for experimenting passive radiator systems ...
Add some weight to the membrane and left voice coil unconnected.
hmm ... so do i need to cut away the magnet assembly too?
No, just glue some weight to the dome/cone juncture, from outside. It will not look pretty, but will work. Measure the new (lower) resonant frequency - it should equate the needed one from the simulation software.hmm ... so do i need to cut away the magnet assembly too?
If you have the tools, you can remove the magnet and add mass inside the voicecoil former.
Chris
I've seen someone separate the magnet and the basket away by means of using a circular drop saw ... isnt it the way to do (remove the magnet)?
I sawed off the magnet assembly with a hand saw. That way it will never bottom out. A passive driver should have 2-2.5x more (stroke x area) than the active driver. I converted a cheap broken fatboy driver into 2x its natural stoke without the magnet/coil. I also stiffened up the cone with some glass fiber and epoxy. I used a hole saw to make a wood plug to fit inside the old voice coil with a bolt sticking out the back. I then added more and more washers until I hit the tuning frequency I wanted. I went by ear and added washers until the passive had the right amount of travel at loud volume. More weights also tunes the sub lower. I ended up with a a small enclosure with a Ultimo sc 12" and 12" fatboy long stroke passive which gives good sound quality for its size. When you achive decent relationship between the drivers the passive should have a lot more travel than the active speaker.
I hope this information helps you and let us know how it turned out 🙂
I hope this information helps you and let us know how it turned out 🙂
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