I put the bootstrap snubbers from the input side of the inductors to the ground plane underneath. Thanks again for the suggestions fellas! The amp looks much less silly now.
I'd like to do the snubber mod on my board too. Have some Wima 0.1uf caps lying around. Will that suffice?
With the original coils, it's hard to see where the input side of the inductors are. From your pic, am I correct to say they are the large solder pads next to both edges of the pcb?
Hello Bernie. The snubber mod specifically calls for a 330pf 50v capacitor and a 10ohm 5% 1/4W resistor. I used these caps and resistors. I am sure any capacitors and resistor of those values will work, does not have to be expensive. Maybe avoid wire wound resistors.
Yes, the way I did it the 330pf cap will go from the outer solder pads at the edge of the board, to the 10ohm resistor, and then to ground. There are many ground points, I just scraped off the mask underneath the board. As irribeo suggested, keep the leads as short as possible.
Yes, the way I did it the 330pf cap will go from the outer solder pads at the edge of the board, to the 10ohm resistor, and then to ground. There are many ground points, I just scraped off the mask underneath the board. As irribeo suggested, keep the leads as short as possible.
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hi guys new guy here from the UK
im currently looking at getting a tpa3116d2 from amazon
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product...act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1XTJ6FZJZ40TR
i was wondering if the following power supply would be suitable?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/voltage-tr...465126765&sr=1-82&keywords=24v+150w+supply+dc
any help would be appreciated
cheers
Tony
im currently looking at getting a tpa3116d2 from amazon
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product...act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1XTJ6FZJZ40TR
i was wondering if the following power supply would be suitable?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/voltage-tr...465126765&sr=1-82&keywords=24v+150w+supply+dc
any help would be appreciated
cheers
Tony
hi guys new guy here from the UK
im currently looking at getting a tpa3116d2 from amazon
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product...act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1XTJ6FZJZ40TR
i was wondering if the following power supply would be suitable?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/voltage-tr...465126765&sr=1-82&keywords=24v+150w+supply+dc
any help would be appreciated
cheers
Tony
Best read the data sheet for the device they are using.
http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tpa3116d2.pdf
Power output will vary with speaker impedance.
The power supply you have chosen has a high enough current to run this amp.
There are various opinions/observations of these types of amps throughout a few of the Class D threads...best to read as much as you can.
I have not heard or used any of them so I have no opinion of them.
Happy hunting.
🙂
Hi, I have 2 of these red dual chip boards, and I am using them as a more power efficient amplifier, instead of my big Onkyo.
Sound is "OK". I would very much like to improve the sound as much as technically possible.
There's a hiss. I read somewhere in here, that I need to change the potentiometers. So I ordered 2 Alpha 10K logarithmic potmeters.
Can anyone recommend the best ones to replace the 4 power caps?
AND 4 inductors.
I'm running 8 ohms floor standing speakers.
I saw a guy in Serbia on google images, that did the bootstrap mod differently than one of you guys recommend. I added pictures.
Picture 1 is MY setup (x2 ofcourse). Pic2 and 3 is the serbian snubber mod.
Sound is "OK". I would very much like to improve the sound as much as technically possible.
There's a hiss. I read somewhere in here, that I need to change the potentiometers. So I ordered 2 Alpha 10K logarithmic potmeters.
Can anyone recommend the best ones to replace the 4 power caps?
AND 4 inductors.
I'm running 8 ohms floor standing speakers.
I saw a guy in Serbia on google images, that did the bootstrap mod differently than one of you guys recommend. I added pictures.
Picture 1 is MY setup (x2 ofcourse). Pic2 and 3 is the serbian snubber mod.
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Haha small world. I could not understand the language in the other forum, and google translate did not help. I think I will do the mod same way as you 🙂 PS. Thanks for the pictures.
OK. I ruined one of my boards today. First time removing a potentiometer, left me with 2 ruined "soldering spots" on the PCB. But eh, these boards are so cheap, and for me it is practice. Just have to wait for a new one, which sucks.
But I tried ordering a different one this time. Also a dual chip board. 2.0 apparently. Don't know what it is next revision of... But it looks like it already has a snubber circuit??
But I tried ordering a different one this time. Also a dual chip board. 2.0 apparently. Don't know what it is next revision of... But it looks like it already has a snubber circuit??
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Since you've damaged the board, why not also try to repair it by using a wire to bridge any lost traces? It's good practice, and you may end up with an extra working board again.
BTW, I've been seeing some new(?) TPA3118 mono boards. They are red, with a single electrolytic cap (same rating though as one of the electrolytics on the sanwu blue). It has provisions for balanced input.
I will also try to repair that board. Will solder 10K resistors in from point to point. But for now, I will wait for the new board. I had an SMSL 36 to substitute for now.
Will be looking into the Sanwu pbtl boards. I really like the sound of my SMSL and that has 3118.
Will be looking into the Sanwu pbtl boards. I really like the sound of my SMSL and that has 3118.
I soldered a 10K potentiometer on the other board. Still a pretty audible hiss. Must be bad layout. Went ahead and ordered 4 pieces of Sanwu 3118 pbtl boards. Need to figure out some volume control. I like those cheap pga digital volume boards but they run AC and have input switching. 2 things I do not want..
Hiss might be caused by your input. Have you tried using your phone as a source? You can also try adding a ferrite filter to your audio cable, more than one turn might help as well.
I reduced considerably the hiss when using a short input cable. 15cm.
And using a shielded audio cable.
And using a shielded audio cable.
Hi. i have the same XH M190 board and looking to replace input coupling capacitors. Are C3, C4, 19, C20 input coupling caps ? Already done with bootstrap snubber mod and the board is sounding very very good.Sorry mates, fixed the pictures.
Hi everyone,
Totally new to this hobby, bought 2 of these boards XH-M190s and one came broken with a capacitor missing/knocked off . Does anyone have any idea what rating this ceramic capacitor has, C33 placement. Checked with a DMM and the it loops to nothing adjacent C9 ceramic is 3.6 uf.
Totally new to this hobby, bought 2 of these boards XH-M190s and one came broken with a capacitor missing/knocked off . Does anyone have any idea what rating this ceramic capacitor has, C33 placement. Checked with a DMM and the it loops to nothing adjacent C9 ceramic is 3.6 uf.
22pF, best remove c33 on the other board too and also mount 22pF (measure footprint before ordering "massive" or "miniscule" replacement part 🙂
Function is to filter the synch between master and slave, the 1nF datasheet value doesn't work because it filters the frequency the synch works at. EVM values are 4k7-47pF and those do work, so I would think your r13 value gives 22pF to function like the EVM.
Function is to filter the synch between master and slave, the 1nF datasheet value doesn't work because it filters the frequency the synch works at. EVM values are 4k7-47pF and those do work, so I would think your r13 value gives 22pF to function like the EVM.
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