My First DIY Bookshelf Speakers
Hello, I have a pair of Infinity RS2001 speakers, that I re-foamed a few years ago. They sound pretty darn good with my LM3886 and FIIO D3 V1 dac.
Now I want to try and build something that might sound better, perhaps even better sensitivity than 89db @ 6 ohms?
I've heard it is better to build than buy pre-fabricated. So I guess I want to build them. I am good with woodworking and have all the tools and lots of leftover MDF.
I just need a good design and bill of materials with specific make/model of tweeter & midrange if possible. Same for the crossovers I guess, and whatever else is needed.
I don't have any other speakers for comparison, so I guess these Infinity RS2001 are my reference, and then go from there.
The RS2001's were recommended by a studio engineer based out of Nashville as super affordable monitors.
Anyways, I am also running my signal to a nice Polk powered sub that seems to perform well. So bookshelf speakers should be enough -- don't need to get lots of bass out of them.. although my RS2001 can play down to 55hz .. and 60hz with some decent volume.
Or maybe I should consider a full range driver?
I'd just like a proven plan that will work well with my LM3886 and Polk Subwoofer I guess.
Thank you
Hello, I have a pair of Infinity RS2001 speakers, that I re-foamed a few years ago. They sound pretty darn good with my LM3886 and FIIO D3 V1 dac.
Now I want to try and build something that might sound better, perhaps even better sensitivity than 89db @ 6 ohms?
I've heard it is better to build than buy pre-fabricated. So I guess I want to build them. I am good with woodworking and have all the tools and lots of leftover MDF.
I just need a good design and bill of materials with specific make/model of tweeter & midrange if possible. Same for the crossovers I guess, and whatever else is needed.
I don't have any other speakers for comparison, so I guess these Infinity RS2001 are my reference, and then go from there.
The RS2001's were recommended by a studio engineer based out of Nashville as super affordable monitors.
Anyways, I am also running my signal to a nice Polk powered sub that seems to perform well. So bookshelf speakers should be enough -- don't need to get lots of bass out of them.. although my RS2001 can play down to 55hz .. and 60hz with some decent volume.
Or maybe I should consider a full range driver?
I'd just like a proven plan that will work well with my LM3886 and Polk Subwoofer I guess.
Thank you
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Hi Jennifer! Check out my blog on kit building here first for a range of ideas.
Since you are going with a sub, check out the LM-1 kit I just published. It uses a smaller, 5 1/4" woofer, but has very smooth and clear output. Towards the end of my blog you'll also find similar ideas from others.
What is your budget, music tastes, what room do you listen in and do you sit in the center or move around? What about movies?
Best,
Erik
Since you are going with a sub, check out the LM-1 kit I just published. It uses a smaller, 5 1/4" woofer, but has very smooth and clear output. Towards the end of my blog you'll also find similar ideas from others.
What is your budget, music tastes, what room do you listen in and do you sit in the center or move around? What about movies?
Best,
Erik
Oddly, you are practically quoting the specs for the LM-1. About 89 dB sensitivity, and 8 Ohms until 150 Hz after which they are about 6. You can build them inside the smallest Dayton cabinets, or build the cabinets yourself, saving you about $170, bringing the build cost to around $300.
Best,
Erik
About 89 dB sensitivity, and 8 Ohms until 150 Hz after which they are about 6. You can build them inside the smallest Dayton cabinets, or build the cabinets yourself, saving you about $170, bringing the build cost to around $300. Best,
Erik
Hi Jennifer! Check out my blog on kit building here first for a range of ideas.
Since you are going with a sub, check out the LM-1 kit I just published. It uses a smaller, 5 1/4" woofer, but has very smooth and clear output. Towards the end of my blog you'll also find similar ideas from others.
What is your budget, music tastes, what room do you listen in and do you sit in the center or move around? What about movies?
Best,
Erik
I'll check out those links thanks!
Well I was considering spending $200 on a pair of Klipsch prefabicated Bookshelf speakers from Best Buy to try out. Just to compare to my RS2001's .. just to see the difference. (I've been changing DACs and AMPS with these speakers and notice huge differences.. now it's time to try a speaker change to see what I might be missing.)
But I figure $200 ought to buy some very nice drivers and crossovers no? I have lots of MDF sitting here and the know how to make various cuts, including circles. (with jigs etc).
Would $200 get me a pair of DIY speakers that blow away the Klipsch bookshelf speakers? Or maybe even embarass my 89db @ 6 ohm Infinity Rs2001's?
The speakers are to the left and right sides of a 40 inch 4K computer (tv) monitor sitting on a desk in the living room. There is a recliner sitting in front of the desk and my ears are centered about 4 feet away from the monitor.. So in a fairly good listening spot. I move the recliner out of the way for the sofa centered behind it, when I have company over.. and my computer monitor becomes a television. I don't use surround sound -- just stereo... prefer that. I listen to all sorts of music.. except ones that were recorded poorly .. like a lot of 80's heavy metal rock bands I liked then.. hard to find a clean metal album.. even Led Zeppelin sounds bad. Some stuff that sounds really great on my Infinity RS2001's are David Gilmore's On an Island, Cake Fashion Nugget, Beck Mutations.. the best sounding punk album I have is No Doubt Return of Saturn -- such clean vocals and drums over heavy distorted yet clean rhythm. Michael Jackson thriller doesn't sound as good as Gilmore's On an Island to me, nor as good as Beck Mutations. I hear Abbey Road is supposed to be audiophile but I find many other albums that sound better than that on my system currently.
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i think in diy bookshelfs $200 gets you something good, $600 gets you great. $1k, amazing. This is the cost of drivers/crossovers only. It's so much work I would spend as much as possible. That's my method. Seems to be working.
I would bet money the lm1 or $200 diy speaker would be better than what you have and the klipsch. If it's a good design. I bet a $600/800 design like bagby's kairos or zaphs revelator designs would compete with commercial speakers 1,500 - $2000 like the KEF ls50.
I would bet money the lm1 or $200 diy speaker would be better than what you have and the klipsch. If it's a good design. I bet a $600/800 design like bagby's kairos or zaphs revelator designs would compete with commercial speakers 1,500 - $2000 like the KEF ls50.
I also think you should try a big tower 3 way too just for comparison. Years ago I was set on bookshelfs in a price range that was not cheap. I auditioned dozens of pairs...many were great. I heard a big 3 way tower in the same price range and I was done auditioning monitors. Your tastes may differ.
Well I don't really have room for the tower speakers -- but I know what you mean. I got room on the sides of my desk for the bookshelf and a powered sub (12") sitting under the desk to the right.
Would I still use my powered sub if I got a big tower 3 way? I have the LM3886 driving the pair of Infinity RS2001 now. Perhaps if I got efficient enough 3 way, the LM3886 could drive the big tower 3 way, with no need for the Polk PSW505 powered sub I have now?
There are a whole bunch of us that would go that way… my experience does show that a 2-way can be better, but one has to keep the XO simple & the XO at a frequency where the centre-to-centre distance of the drivers is less than a ¼ wavelength at the XO (which in practical terms means a low XO point (<400 Hz or so).
That said there are some very good FRs that will embarass many a 2-way, and can usually be done at a lower cost. Having a sub means you don't need to go really low, but you still want 80-100 Hz or so.
Look at Mark Audio Alpair 7.3 or Alpair 10.3 or A10p. Lots of other choices but those are amounst my favourites.
dave
Disregarding aesthetics, how would MDF negatively impact the sound compared to some other hard wood / soft wood? Is there a particular type of wood that resonates better or something?
There are a whole bunch of us that would go that way… my experience does show that a 2-way can be better, but one has to keep the XO simple & the XO at a frequency where the centre-to-centre distance of the drivers is less than a ¼ wavelength at the XO (which in practical terms means a low XO point (<400 Hz or so).
That said there are some very good FRs that will embarass many a 2-way, and can usually be done at a lower cost. Having a sub means you don't need to go really low, but you still want 80-100 Hz or so.
Look at Mark Audio Alpair 7.3 or Alpair 10.3 or A10p. Lots of other choices but those are amounst my favourites.
dave
The Alpair 10.3 is really catching my eye. Seems like it would be pretty simple to make a speaker with this. No worry about crossovers right? Just throw it in the box and hook it up in the back? Only $110 for each speaker. I could use MDF for now at least temporarily?
In the photos above is the Alpair 10.3? HOw did you get that design on the gold woofers? Don't see them availabe that way.
MDF is not very stiff and tends to store energy and then slowly release it to create a low level grunge that buries low level detail, the stuff that gives flesh to voice & instrument and provides that subtle clues that allow the brain to create a good stereo image/soundstage. That grunge also gives the brain the opportunity to locate the speaker box.
MDF is used commercailly because it is cheap. Cheap to buy, cheap to machine, cheap to finish. Industry has done such a good job propogandizing it that even skilled designers think it is 1st choice.
I would recommend quality plywood (we use Murphy Ply from Oregon), or if you want better and a fabulous finish stranded/fossilized (each vendor seems to have a different name) bamboo plywood. The bamboo comes at a price, is hard to work, and to get the best cosmetics one needs to take more care with the joinery.
dave
MDF is used commercailly because it is cheap. Cheap to buy, cheap to machine, cheap to finish. Industry has done such a good job propogandizing it that even skilled designers think it is 1st choice.
I would recommend quality plywood (we use Murphy Ply from Oregon), or if you want better and a fabulous finish stranded/fossilized (each vendor seems to have a different name) bamboo plywood. The bamboo comes at a price, is hard to work, and to get the best cosmetics one needs to take more care with the joinery.
dave
Yes, yes. For a bookshelf i figure that 13 litres is near optimum.
Those are actually A10.2, but unless you can see the label it is next to impossible to tell from the A10.3. A10.3 is a bit more refined, and a bit more efficient, but doesn't go quite as low. The A10.3 can fit that box (with changes in the tuning). I am currently listening to a more advanced version of that box with A10.3eN.
Currently i am the only one commercially selling EnABLed drivers (except Bud who does a few custom jobs), that is the spots. At a minimum the treatment further improves the DDR/low level detail capability.
All the information needed to diy the EnABLing is readily available, but practise is needed to get sufficiently comfortable to tackle a nice driver.
This currently live thread has some interesting discussion of a specific EnABLed driver which may provide some useful information: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/291855-planet-10-measured-improvements-ff85wk.html
dave
Jennifer,
I believe it's an easy task if you're looking for a good monitor to swap your Infinity. A lot of good design and experienced people in your country ! All is about the weight of money and DIY and Time you want to invest. Time is not always the best saved money ( a good second hand can be better and less expensive than a DIY for this simple task !)
A lot of great people and great design at DIYAUDIO, some already answered. There are more choices than you have ears. And that's a problem when you are a music lover.
You can look for Jeff Bagby designs as well, although more expensive.
You should have also a look at the kits made by the main american and Canada drivers vendors : Part Express, Meniscus, etc.
Look also at Zaphaudio kits, you can't go wrong imho.
COnsider as well the source and the amp. Tons of second hands which are very good but no DIY !
Just two cents.
I believe it's an easy task if you're looking for a good monitor to swap your Infinity. A lot of good design and experienced people in your country ! All is about the weight of money and DIY and Time you want to invest. Time is not always the best saved money ( a good second hand can be better and less expensive than a DIY for this simple task !)
A lot of great people and great design at DIYAUDIO, some already answered. There are more choices than you have ears. And that's a problem when you are a music lover.
You can look for Jeff Bagby designs as well, although more expensive.
You should have also a look at the kits made by the main american and Canada drivers vendors : Part Express, Meniscus, etc.
Look also at Zaphaudio kits, you can't go wrong imho.
COnsider as well the source and the amp. Tons of second hands which are very good but no DIY !
Just two cents.
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Thank you. If I went with the Mark Audio Alpair 10.3 would my LM3886 amp drive them well? I am using a 25v+25v toroidal transformer. Found out that is the max AC voltage to feed the dc supply for this amp. But 25v is more for 8 ohm speakers and 22v more for 4 to 6 ohm speakers. My infinity Rs2001 2-ways say they are 6 ohm, so I might be feeding the amp boards too much voltage at 25v. I should have probably gotten the 22v toroidal. I wonder if the Mark Audio Alpair 10.3 input impedance is sufficiently high to solve this voltage problem, allowing me to keep my existing 25v toroidal.
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The source chain right now is: Mac OS X -> USB PCM (XMOS) -> SMSL S8 (ES1908K2M) -> B1 Buffer (100K pot) -> Chipamp.com LM3886 non-inverting kit (25V toroidal) -> Infinity Rs2001 (89db @ 6 ohm)
Also from the B1 Buffer I have the signal split going into the Polk PSW505 powered sub.
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Planet10 will answer himself. Going full range for musicality is not a bad idea.
Limitations comes also often from the source (Something not as simple). Some will say certainly the opposite. If it was so easy such website will not exist !
It's a little a false quest where the pleasure is about the search, trys and errors : the path more than the results ! We are all extremists here whatever the skill, the level of knowledge, the musical culture, etc. One thing is sure, you can have Something musical not too much expensive even if différences betweens systems are huge (but you need to have listened once to know it ! So for the bucks, folow the good designs published here and on the parts vendors website.
It's very two cents but you may save time!
Limitations comes also often from the source (Something not as simple). Some will say certainly the opposite. If it was so easy such website will not exist !
It's a little a false quest where the pleasure is about the search, trys and errors : the path more than the results ! We are all extremists here whatever the skill, the level of knowledge, the musical culture, etc. One thing is sure, you can have Something musical not too much expensive even if différences betweens systems are huge (but you need to have listened once to know it ! So for the bucks, folow the good designs published here and on the parts vendors website.
It's very two cents but you may save time!
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