Finally got lucky and ran across something that would work for my LM3886.
Picked this up for $5. It's plenty tall, deep and wide. It has vents on the bottom and top where the LM3886's would be.
It has solid oak sides (over steel sides), aluminum front and the rest is steel.
Not many holes in the back (just 3 small ones, which can all be re-used).
The front face plate has the big holes and mouth but that's ok because I can just use a couple layers of aluminum tape on the inside and just put some chipboard/paper or wood on the front temporarily (over the aluminum). At a later date my brother could machine me a new front panel (with it being a little wider to reach to the edges/end of each of the oak side panels.
The top has a thing that opens (it's plastic) to service the tape player head (all the guts will be removed). I can figure a way to cover this up nicely perhaps and put alumimum tape on the inside.
Well what do ya think? I can't afford $150-200 right now for a real case. For 5 bucks this seems pretty nice.
Picked this up for $5. It's plenty tall, deep and wide. It has vents on the bottom and top where the LM3886's would be.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
It has solid oak sides (over steel sides), aluminum front and the rest is steel.
Not many holes in the back (just 3 small ones, which can all be re-used).
The front face plate has the big holes and mouth but that's ok because I can just use a couple layers of aluminum tape on the inside and just put some chipboard/paper or wood on the front temporarily (over the aluminum). At a later date my brother could machine me a new front panel (with it being a little wider to reach to the edges/end of each of the oak side panels.
The top has a thing that opens (it's plastic) to service the tape player head (all the guts will be removed). I can figure a way to cover this up nicely perhaps and put alumimum tape on the inside.
Well what do ya think? I can't afford $150-200 right now for a real case. For 5 bucks this seems pretty nice.
I haven't as it happens but it is easily described. It has a face plate of plain galvanised steel with a single big silver metal toggle switch and 6 stainless screws holding the panel on. It has a certain brutal charm.
I will break out the dusters and get a photo when I get chance.
John
I will break out the dusters and get a photo when I get chance.
John
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I've had some thoughts about using aluminium channel to make cheap, good looking enclosures.
Base and sides - 6-10mm aluminium plate
Top - 6mm aluminium channel.
Think of two C sections that fit together. The downside is the need to run a separate enclosure for power (unless you get MASSIVE channel) and the added cost of umbilical power, but it should be offset by the low cost of materials.
Base and sides - 6-10mm aluminium plate
Top - 6mm aluminium channel.
Think of two C sections that fit together. The downside is the need to run a separate enclosure for power (unless you get MASSIVE channel) and the added cost of umbilical power, but it should be offset by the low cost of materials.
Awesome find!
The case part of DIY is always a painful one - you either spend big money for something beautiful (or not, digikey/mouser enclosures aren't cheap or pretty!) or end up with something not so great.
The enclosures from China are nice and reasonably priced until shipping comes into play.
I sometimes checkout used stores and ask if they have broken stuff kicking around - usually you can get something for a very nominal price that way (good source of transformers too!)
I have been toying with the idea of using plexiglass/acrylic for a faceplate since there are usually far too many holes in consumer cases - I would just cut the faceplate, paint one side (or get coloured acrylic) and mount it on top of the existing one. With laser cutters being so accessible these days you could just get it laser cut and do logos and text engraved and all that jazz.
The case part of DIY is always a painful one - you either spend big money for something beautiful (or not, digikey/mouser enclosures aren't cheap or pretty!) or end up with something not so great.
The enclosures from China are nice and reasonably priced until shipping comes into play.
I sometimes checkout used stores and ask if they have broken stuff kicking around - usually you can get something for a very nominal price that way (good source of transformers too!)
I have been toying with the idea of using plexiglass/acrylic for a faceplate since there are usually far too many holes in consumer cases - I would just cut the faceplate, paint one side (or get coloured acrylic) and mount it on top of the existing one. With laser cutters being so accessible these days you could just get it laser cut and do logos and text engraved and all that jazz.
Cool to see there are like-minded
I find the cases incredibly pricey considering the chimpamp.com lm3886 kit is relative cheap along with the transformer. It's like I'd spend more on a case than all of what's inside! Crazy business! Anyways I have an idea for you for a front plate. I might do this. Take a piece of 1/4" thick MDF and cut it appropriately. Then spray paint flat black several coats. Then use a satin or glossy sealer over that and give it a nice shine
Or maybe some wood varnish even? Then sand that with super fine sand paper and then polish with some sort of product and a soft rag. What do you think?So I popped out the plastic service door off the top of the unit. The one circled below:
It was just glued on from the bottom -- very easy to remove.
Took some calipers to the opening and measured the thickness of the metal as well. Then I designed a vent in OpenSCAD to replace this--I'm printing it right now on my $350 3D printer in PLA plastic (about 60 cents in materials). It will be glued in from the bottom using the lip I made. It will be printed in black. The top of the vent will be flush with the top of the case.
The extra vent helps a tiny bit -- it already had adequate ventilation with the existing vents. The new vent is nearer to where the DC power supply will be). At least it will look intentional (and not out of place) rather than a solid replacement piece to patch/plug the hole.
Here's the design I'm printing out right now:
Should I hot glue it in or use e6000? PLA to Metal bond.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
It was just glued on from the bottom -- very easy to remove.
Took some calipers to the opening and measured the thickness of the metal as well. Then I designed a vent in OpenSCAD to replace this--I'm printing it right now on my $350 3D printer in PLA plastic (about 60 cents in materials). It will be glued in from the bottom using the lip I made. It will be printed in black. The top of the vent will be flush with the top of the case.
The extra vent helps a tiny bit -- it already had adequate ventilation with the existing vents. The new vent is nearer to where the DC power supply will be). At least it will look intentional (and not out of place) rather than a solid replacement piece to patch/plug the hole.
Here's the design I'm printing out right now:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Should I hot glue it in or use e6000? PLA to Metal bond.
Cool to see there are like-minded
Anyways I have an idea for you for a front plate. I might do this. Take a piece of 1/4" thick MDF and cut it appropriately. Then spray paint flat black several coats. Then use a satin or glossy sealer over that and give it a nice shine
That would be another idea - my thought with using acrylic or plexiglass is that you get that smooth look, you pain the back, which gives it a even sooth look. Optionally you can just print a overlay and put it behind.
But I mean it depends on what kind of look you're after, wood never goes out of style
Okay. So I'll do that and I'll glue some rubbery foam type stuff on the bottom of those feet so it won't slide around. Thanks for the advice.
That would be another idea - my thought with using acrylic or plexiglass is that you get that smooth look, you pain the back, which gives it a even sooth look. Optionally you can just print a overlay and put it behind.
But I mean it depends on what kind of look you're after, wood never goes out of style
Yeah I've been thinking about a hardwood front as well lined with a couple layers foil tape in the back of it or something.
What about these feet? I resized to 12mm tall.
EDIT: on second thought I think I am gonna do a simple 12mm tall cylinder.. flat on both sides, solid with no holes... then hot glue that to bottom of case then apply rubbery foam to the bottom of that.. that way I don't have to drill any holes in the case and have any screws interferring with what is inside as well.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
EDIT: on second thought I think I am gonna do a simple 12mm tall cylinder.. flat on both sides, solid with no holes... then hot glue that to bottom of case then apply rubbery foam to the bottom of that.. that way I don't have to drill any holes in the case and have any screws interferring with what is inside as well.
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Finished the vent. Here it is installed. I also removed the stickers from the top front left. Also the wood panels are removed in this photo to show the steel sides underneath.
All I need now is some sort of front panel or panel cover made of wood, plastic, paper, chipboard or metal. Although foil tape over the holes would work temporarily.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
All I need now is some sort of front panel or panel cover made of wood, plastic, paper, chipboard or metal. Although foil tape over the holes would work temporarily.
Here is a photo of the inside. See the vent on the bottom right? That'll be under the heatskink the lm3886's will be secured to.
Notice the white plastic square to the middle left side? That's an adhesive thing to attach a cable tie wrap to.. which is perfect since the ac power lines will be coming to the transformer , which will located in the front left side.
The DC power supply will be located in the front right side and the lm3886's towards the back over and under the vents.
Notice the back only has 3 holes in it which is great. I'll plug any unused holes on the back panel with 3D printable sheet metal plugs.
On the left side of the back panel, I'll be cutting a retangular hole for the ac inlet/fuse/light/switch/filter thingy (that I bought for $20). It'll run to the transformer on the same side.
Notice the white plastic square to the middle left side? That's an adhesive thing to attach a cable tie wrap to.. which is perfect since the ac power lines will be coming to the transformer , which will located in the front left side.
The DC power supply will be located in the front right side and the lm3886's towards the back over and under the vents.
Notice the back only has 3 holes in it which is great. I'll plug any unused holes on the back panel with 3D printable sheet metal plugs.
On the left side of the back panel, I'll be cutting a retangular hole for the ac inlet/fuse/light/switch/filter thingy (that I bought for $20). It'll run to the transformer on the same side.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Here is the design for the four feet. 4 cylinders 10mm high and 1 inch in diameter:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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