Thanks Mooly 🙂 They are, diodes, i removed that bit of desolder copper wire, and will check with the spare cd50 pcb which I messed up earlier.
Short Circuit was a cool movie 😛, this isnt too cool, in fact is very frustrating. I am putting back the smaller cerafine caps I am thinking, had success with my Technics CD-P990 cd player but the tracks are not as fragile nor small like the Philips/Marantz
Jean Paul 🙂 have you any photos to of CD50s for me please, thanks for the sugguestions
Thanks Eldam 🙂 yes I was trying to copy other peoples mods, basic ones, next thing the TDA is
, which I hope it isnt with the short, but since one of the 220uf 25v silmicII has been around the wrong way and i dont know which? maybe I should use the orginal caps here
* update*
the player powers up and plays cds, though will leave unit on for 10 mins or so before testing the audio!
I found a large file for a CD40 PCB, which showed this time the caps were around the correct way , and going by manual,
Also there was a brake in the pcb around a capacitor which the DMM picked up, i fixed that, also removed some solder around the fix on the diode part of the pcb
🙁 i am just hoping I shall get sound when i test it, hope all goes well will update
Thanks so much for all the help 🙂
the player powers up and plays cds, though will leave unit on for 10 mins or so before testing the audio!
I found a large file for a CD40 PCB, which showed this time the caps were around the correct way , and going by manual,
Also there was a brake in the pcb around a capacitor which the DMM picked up, i fixed that, also removed some solder around the fix on the diode part of the pcb
🙁 i am just hoping I shall get sound when i test it, hope all goes well will update
Thanks so much for all the help 🙂
* same issue, no sound, very warm around power supply heatsink and some sort of burn smell, though least CD player is playing etc
Since one of the 10 220uf 25v silmicII caps was around in the wrong direction? maybe is best to put back the Nichicon FG I had and the Cerafine around the opamps.
I checked each diode with a mulitmeter around 345 vs 600 something with the old ones, noticed the 4 removing old VS-11DQ10 around bit lower.
Mouser sugguested was these?
SB1H100-E3/73 Vishay Semiconductors | Mouser
Since one of the 10 220uf 25v silmicII caps was around in the wrong direction? maybe is best to put back the Nichicon FG I had and the Cerafine around the opamps.
I checked each diode with a mulitmeter around 345 vs 600 something with the old ones, noticed the 4 removing old VS-11DQ10 around bit lower.
Mouser sugguested was these?
SB1H100-E3/73 Vishay Semiconductors | Mouser
You need a system when working on machines. If you make a change then test directly after that and check if it works OK. When you do all mods at one time it is hard to find out where it went wrong. Make a list of what caps you need and buy the complete set. Please buy good stuff. Make sure they all fit physically. Then solder them to the board.
Now check all the mods you did (except swapping the caps of course) and try to reverse all the steps. It worked originally and it can work again. It is not clever to use the orginal Cerafine caps again as they are old. If you do you also indicated that repacing them was a useless venture 😉
Or accept the CD50 as the famous "modded to death" machine and accept that you need to improve the skills 🙂 Now you have the freedom to remove and resolder all parts and become a pro in doing it without damaging the PCB. You sacrificed a machine to improve your skills = good trade !
* Tip: please use clear language to us as many are non native english speakers. I would not know what to make of :
"I checked each diode with a mulitmeter around 345 vs 600 something with the old ones, noticed the 4 removing old VS-11DQ10 around bit lower.Mouser sugguested was these?""
Or:
"the player powers up and plays cds, though will leave unit on for 10 mins or so before testing the audio!"
Now check all the mods you did (except swapping the caps of course) and try to reverse all the steps. It worked originally and it can work again. It is not clever to use the orginal Cerafine caps again as they are old. If you do you also indicated that repacing them was a useless venture 😉
Or accept the CD50 as the famous "modded to death" machine and accept that you need to improve the skills 🙂 Now you have the freedom to remove and resolder all parts and become a pro in doing it without damaging the PCB. You sacrificed a machine to improve your skills = good trade !
* Tip: please use clear language to us as many are non native english speakers. I would not know what to make of :
"I checked each diode with a mulitmeter around 345 vs 600 something with the old ones, noticed the 4 removing old VS-11DQ10 around bit lower.Mouser sugguested was these?""
Or:
"the player powers up and plays cds, though will leave unit on for 10 mins or so before testing the audio!"
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Nah..... no needs to buy stuff again but garbadge the cap which was pins reversed by a new one.
The heatsink if I remember (the U black one) has a 78005 reg with a clip, it should be broken .
Did you desoldered all the caps into the U black heatsink to see if one cap is not reversed too; if you didn't make an error with a diode as you changed them as well !
At this point, you have to acept you broked Something by an error. According my experience with these Philips stuffs :
If just a reg is broke it's ok, but if you burned, shorted the long eprom in the center of the pcb : it's dead !
For the tda 1541A which is the only interest in this stuff player : if the two Silmic 2 you soldered are in the right position : no problem, the chip is still alive; in the worst case you can sell the pcb to someone here who want a genuine TDA1541A, or desolder it carefully for a futur use... but no really good TDA1541A pcb here at DIYAUDIO, at least IMO (but at least better than the Ebay's ones).
Can you do like Mooly did above : with Microsoft Paint : suround with the 220 uF cap on the photograph which was faulty : you need to be more precise.
Ah sorry for my English, I do my best !
The heatsink if I remember (the U black one) has a 78005 reg with a clip, it should be broken .
Did you desoldered all the caps into the U black heatsink to see if one cap is not reversed too; if you didn't make an error with a diode as you changed them as well !
At this point, you have to acept you broked Something by an error. According my experience with these Philips stuffs :
If just a reg is broke it's ok, but if you burned, shorted the long eprom in the center of the pcb : it's dead !
For the tda 1541A which is the only interest in this stuff player : if the two Silmic 2 you soldered are in the right position : no problem, the chip is still alive; in the worst case you can sell the pcb to someone here who want a genuine TDA1541A, or desolder it carefully for a futur use... but no really good TDA1541A pcb here at DIYAUDIO, at least IMO (but at least better than the Ebay's ones).
Can you do like Mooly did above : with Microsoft Paint : suround with the 220 uF cap on the photograph which was faulty : you need to be more precise.
Ah sorry for my English, I do my best !
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Invest in some decent solder wick, I like the hakko brand.
And some thinner solder and or a thinner iron tip.
I think your issues are to much heat for too long, and just way to much solder.
Leads to 'burning' tracks of boards, overkill solder, shorts, dry joints.
In your pics, I can see frozen joints (factory), shorts from debris, far to much solder (which hides bad joints).
Trying to caps that are physically to large wont help you at all too.
I'm not picking on you, just trying to help you see where you could practice and improve.
But yes, as said earlier, these older marantz units (like many other brands) can be a right pain in the a... cause they love to shed tracks...
And some thinner solder and or a thinner iron tip.
I think your issues are to much heat for too long, and just way to much solder.
Leads to 'burning' tracks of boards, overkill solder, shorts, dry joints.
In your pics, I can see frozen joints (factory), shorts from debris, far to much solder (which hides bad joints).
Trying to caps that are physically to large wont help you at all too.
I'm not picking on you, just trying to help you see where you could practice and improve.
But yes, as said earlier, these older marantz units (like many other brands) can be a right pain in the a... cause they love to shed tracks...
I believe Pedja Rogic from Audial has some AYA II DS edition board yet for the TDA1541A chip ! At 30 euros the PCB, it is the best money can buy for DIY and for a musical result and not a gaz factory pcb with bad regs, should it be bulk or smd, esoteric drawing, BS, etc.... 😉.
Hi Jean-Paul
Thank you again for your help and advice.
Yes i think I should have changed a few capacitor and test each time, instead I took all the capacitor and diodes off the pcb.
I will reuse the old cerafines only to check if the player works, but first, the 220uf 25v silmic, since I do not know which one I had around the wrong way. If this solves the problem, then, I will get new capacitors.
Maybe with the spare (damaged traces CD50) pcb, i can replace the diodes? with the original ones. I am sorry to confuse you, the numbers were readings from the mulimeter verse the original diodes.
Hi Eldam
Thank you for the help and advice.
Yes, maybe I bumped the regulator attached to the black U shaped heatsink. I have a spare CD50 PCB i could use it regulator.
I checked with the markings on the board, and also from a photo of a CD40 power supply photo online of the capacitor direction. I could not see the diode direction but copied the direction from the CD50 service manual.
Unfortunately, I do not know which of the 10, SilmicII i had in the wrong directon? so I shall put the 10 original capacitors back in, but still this doesnt explain the heat in the Power Supply area, and no sound.
I was thinking the same thing at the worse I have a spare CDM19 laser, and a TDA1541A i could sell.
Hi Old N Cranky,
Thank you for the reply and advice.
I usually use the Jaycar goot solder which is great, but since I got an X-on WA Australia order (they sell mouser stuff, without having to spend a lot), I choose chemtools or some cheap desolder, which is nothing compared to the Goot. Moddinng my Technics P990 was so much less a pain, than the Marantz. I shall check over it as you said, i touched up solder on the regulators, so maybe i should carefully resolder them. I may have to use the larger SilmicII for something else, and use some Nichicon in the PSU
Nice a TDA dac would be nice to stream music from the computer
You had a short, maybe it's simply broken, I don't know.
You said you reversed one of the cap you swaped but don't remember which one ????
The diodes you use are good for the job.
So for you all the caps you swaped are in the right direction ? You checked Inside the heatsink as asked ? J-¨P advice was good to replace the cap one by one to check first if there is an error ! If one was reversed, throw it in the garbadge. If there is no error with caps, (no cayou swapedp was reversed), try to replace the diodes to be sure, although the model you swaped is good as far I can see on the link you provided.
No I don't advise you to take a reg from your spare pcb, but to buy a new one if the heatsink is so hot you can not putt the finger. if the heatsink is very too hot the reg is certainly kaputt, but maye you talked about the Power suplly traffo itself ? A good way to know is to run you're non broken spare pcb and taste the behavior about this heat !
Without no more information, B-plan... more experienced people than me have certainly better ideas ! But If you have twwo of the same PCB I will the second original like it is, take the tda1541A of the broken one and make a dac not too much expensive with it...
You said you reversed one of the cap you swaped but don't remember which one ????
The diodes you use are good for the job.
So for you all the caps you swaped are in the right direction ? You checked Inside the heatsink as asked ? J-¨P advice was good to replace the cap one by one to check first if there is an error ! If one was reversed, throw it in the garbadge. If there is no error with caps, (no cayou swapedp was reversed), try to replace the diodes to be sure, although the model you swaped is good as far I can see on the link you provided.
No I don't advise you to take a reg from your spare pcb, but to buy a new one if the heatsink is so hot you can not putt the finger. if the heatsink is very too hot the reg is certainly kaputt, but maye you talked about the Power suplly traffo itself ? A good way to know is to run you're non broken spare pcb and taste the behavior about this heat !
Without no more information, B-plan... more experienced people than me have certainly better ideas ! But If you have twwo of the same PCB I will the second original like it is, take the tda1541A of the broken one and make a dac not too much expensive with it...
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The regulators inside the heatsink, i had to push them to fit the larger capacitors, maybe the damage is there? broken
yes correct of the 10, 220uf SilmicII i do not know which is the reserved capacitor, so now i have to put back the cerafine ( 8 years old) and Nichicon FG (3years old) around the DAC.
I am yet to look at the CD50 but I shall be checking the heatsink this morning and regulators, and replacing the 10 SilmicII.
Since the diodes i bought are good replacements, its best I keep them in, they can not be the problem. I tested them with the mulitmeter set on diode symbol.
I will fix the above, and get back with results hopefully good news i hope
Yes, a cheap TDA dac would be nice to have, and also a spare laser mechanism and other parts on the spare CD50 pcb I could use.
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Ah I got it : you assume a cap was reversed because it was our feeling, but you are not sure !
Yes replace with the original : 8 years for Cerafine and FG is Nothing at all!... And you have still to find the cause of the break, before replace blindly the regs or Something else !
If you find a reversed cap, show us which one.
Yes replace with the original : 8 years for Cerafine and FG is Nothing at all!... And you have still to find the cause of the break, before replace blindly the regs or Something else !
If you find a reversed cap, show us which one.
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Hi Eldam
On the spare CD50 pcb,i can only use it as a spare since i damaged the board. It was on the spare CD50, that a Diyaudio member said a capacitor was reversed and it was around the TDA dac. So since I dont know which 220uf 25v silmicII it is, i think best to put the old back, and yes they are only 8 years old. I bought the CD player modded from ebay in 2008.
Maybe the buzzing was the capacitor now it wont buzz anymore, since its damaged, i replace with the old, and find the heat and smell issue around the PSU heatsink
On the spare CD50 pcb,i can only use it as a spare since i damaged the board. It was on the spare CD50, that a Diyaudio member said a capacitor was reversed and it was around the TDA dac. So since I dont know which 220uf 25v silmicII it is, i think best to put the old back, and yes they are only 8 years old. I bought the CD player modded from ebay in 2008.
Maybe the buzzing was the capacitor now it wont buzz anymore, since its damaged, i replace with the old, and find the heat and smell issue around the PSU heatsink
One of gear I can't live without is my mag-lamp.
Can make finding pcb issues much easier.
Things that look fine, suddenly show up as bad.
If you dont have one, get one..
Also great for finding and digging out splitters 😀
It could also be a broken or cracked track. I hate those. Near impossible to see.
Can make finding pcb issues much easier.
Things that look fine, suddenly show up as bad.
If you dont have one, get one..
Also great for finding and digging out splitters 😀
It could also be a broken or cracked track. I hate those. Near impossible to see.
😀 that sounds a great device to have, atm i am using a magnifier - cheap one from Element14, and sunlight, thanks could be a track i cant see
I put in the original Elna Cerafine and Nichicon FG around dac and opamps. still the same no sound, i left it one only a few minutes this time couldnt smell anything.
I put in the original Elna Cerafine and Nichicon FG around dac and opamps. still the same no sound, i left it one only a few minutes this time couldnt smell anything.
No big heat anymore ? Was there a reversed cap or not finally ?
Now, with the board powered, take carrefully (no shorts 😀) the voltages at the outout and input of the regs : so each time with a lead of the voltmeter on the gnd pin of the 3 pins reg.
For instance, the marking of the regs :
79005 are for - 5V
78012 are for + 12V
etc...
At the end you know thet on your spare pcb the TDA1541A is maybe broken because this famous faulty cap you talked about. So if you can't fix the main last broken board (which has certainly no problem with the TDA1541A but
around the powersupply) you can swap the good TDA on it towards the spare Dac !
If it doesn't work after, this is above my own skill (I'm not elec tech).
Now, with the board powered, take carrefully (no shorts 😀) the voltages at the outout and input of the regs : so each time with a lead of the voltmeter on the gnd pin of the 3 pins reg.
For instance, the marking of the regs :
79005 are for - 5V
78012 are for + 12V
etc...
At the end you know thet on your spare pcb the TDA1541A is maybe broken because this famous faulty cap you talked about. So if you can't fix the main last broken board (which has certainly no problem with the TDA1541A but
around the powersupply) you can swap the good TDA on it towards the spare Dac !
If it doesn't work after, this is above my own skill (I'm not elec tech).
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One this Marantz PCB, i never reversed a cap, maybe the heat is there, i only had it on for 2 minutes to test for sound, maybe if i left it one for 20 minutes like last time it would get hot again
Maybe it must be regulators as there is no sound. I think measuring the regulator on the heatsink would be impossible as i have the big capacitor in the way. So i can not remove the heatsink and regulator from the spare board and out on this board?
😀... just get out this board of the box, reverse it on a table, switch it on and measure these damned regs from the bottom side! You don't need to connect the Cd meachanism to check what input our output of the reg pins !
WES 2014 Catalogue NP
One I use is the desk clamp, 400mm arm, led lights.
Leds dont create extra heat were your head is, ring of lights gives good lighting when you have hands etc underneath, decent size lens so you have reasonable viewing area.
Be better if it was slightly less magnification as that would give you more room between lens and object.
One I use is the desk clamp, 400mm arm, led lights.
Leds dont create extra heat were your head is, ring of lights gives good lighting when you have hands etc underneath, decent size lens so you have reasonable viewing area.
Be better if it was slightly less magnification as that would give you more room between lens and object.
Hi Eldam,
😀 silly me didnt think of accessing it underneath, what do i set meter to ? 200 or 500?
Hi Old n Cranky
Nice, last i used Wes, well Wagner I was able to use paypal. That looks very handy thanks 🙂
😀 silly me didnt think of accessing it underneath, what do i set meter to ? 200 or 500?
Hi Old n Cranky
Nice, last i used Wes, well Wagner I was able to use paypal. That looks very handy thanks 🙂
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