What is the impedance of your speakers? I think it sounds hollow compared to other boards. Maybe I got a bad one...
They are nominal 8ohm GRS Research XL-S. Small 2 way with 6.5in woofer and 1in soft dome. Let me compare with another speaker - a full range in a Karlsonator that I know has decent bass when used with a Sanwu 3118 PBTL.
Hollow sounding could mean lack of mid bass - not sure why a TPA3116 would lack mid bass.
Have you double checked your speaker polarity? It may be that the board speaker outs are improperly labeled polarity. This has happened more than once on Chinese amp boards. Switched polarity on one speaker will give very thin hollow bass.
Hollow sounding could mean lack of mid bass - not sure why a TPA3116 would lack mid bass.
Have you double checked your speaker polarity? It may be that the board speaker outs are improperly labeled polarity. This has happened more than once on Chinese amp boards. Switched polarity on one speaker will give very thin hollow bass.
That's what I thought I did at first. The board has the same labels as yours though. I'll try a different set of speakers too.
Test Sanwu 3116 BT with TL speakers
I just switched to a set of TL speakers (a FF105Wk in a labyrinth TL on left and a CHN-70 in a Karlsonator ML-TQWT TL on right) capable of nice full bass. I listened to some tracks with some good bass lines that I am very familiar with (Norah Jones - You've Ruined Me; Bob Marley - Waiting in Vain; Natalie Merchant - Carnival; Buddy Guy - Ain't No Sunshine). I listened to both the Sanwu 3118 PBTL (Xmas amp in red box above the Karlsonator) and the new Sanwu 3116 BT. I can't really detect a difference - both have great sound quality and full, rich, bass. I am surprised at the clarity and sound quality of the wireless BT. It is very nice not to be tied down with wires and still have great SQ. Based on the Sanwu boards that I have tested so far, I have to say that I am rather impressed with how good they sound, and the quality of construction/craftsmanship. Sanwu is the one to beat for SQ and overall value. Nothing else in the market currently can touch the 3116 BT for value and good sound at this point. I am going to buy several more to have on hand as these make great gifts when combined with a DIY speaker. Everyone likes a BT speaker, and they will like it even more when it's a custom designed speaker that sounds better than something available for $500 from a store.
I just switched to a set of TL speakers (a FF105Wk in a labyrinth TL on left and a CHN-70 in a Karlsonator ML-TQWT TL on right) capable of nice full bass. I listened to some tracks with some good bass lines that I am very familiar with (Norah Jones - You've Ruined Me; Bob Marley - Waiting in Vain; Natalie Merchant - Carnival; Buddy Guy - Ain't No Sunshine). I listened to both the Sanwu 3118 PBTL (Xmas amp in red box above the Karlsonator) and the new Sanwu 3116 BT. I can't really detect a difference - both have great sound quality and full, rich, bass. I am surprised at the clarity and sound quality of the wireless BT. It is very nice not to be tied down with wires and still have great SQ. Based on the Sanwu boards that I have tested so far, I have to say that I am rather impressed with how good they sound, and the quality of construction/craftsmanship. Sanwu is the one to beat for SQ and overall value. Nothing else in the market currently can touch the 3116 BT for value and good sound at this point. I am going to buy several more to have on hand as these make great gifts when combined with a DIY speaker. Everyone likes a BT speaker, and they will like it even more when it's a custom designed speaker that sounds better than something available for $500 from a store.
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Nice, dumping the FW would mean to get the PSKeys from the BT module via SPI. (You may skip this task. 😀 )
You mean the FW on the BT is re-programmable? Like the beeping sounds it makes vs some that talk to tell you you are connected? I have non idea how to do that. Is it hard to do?
The FW on this unit seems to work well enough - connects easily and all buttons work as they should. Truly a marvel of low cost but high quality engineering.
The FW on this unit seems to work well enough - connects easily and all buttons work as they should. Truly a marvel of low cost but high quality engineering.
Yes it is, if its a CSR (8630/35/45), there even is a DSP core included to have some limited EQ and compressor/limiter.
You need to find the SPI pins and the PCM/SPI GPIO to switch to SPI mode. Programming can be done with a chinese CSR USB-SPI and the software from CSR.
Im really interested in high quality pictures of the AFE stage between the BT module and the amp-ic.
You need to find the SPI pins and the PCM/SPI GPIO to switch to SPI mode. Programming can be done with a chinese CSR USB-SPI and the software from CSR.
Im really interested in high quality pictures of the AFE stage between the BT module and the amp-ic.
Here you go...
(backside has nothing so low res) the 8 pin IC without designation is an NE5552 (some sort of smudge on the chip had to be wiped off to read).
For CSR SPI programming, I guess you are talking about one of these units?
http://www.goodluckbuy.com/csr-blue...luetooth-module-chip-programmer-debugger.html
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Blue...I-programmer-burner-emulator/32224766827.html
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Thanks, i suspect the bottom right 4 pins to be the SPI lines.
The programmers are the right ones, but can be sourced way cheaper.
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/CSR-...SPI-send-production-software/32246608335.html
You just have to make sure, it's 1V8 compatible.
The programmers are the right ones, but can be sourced way cheaper.
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/CSR-...SPI-send-production-software/32246608335.html
You just have to make sure, it's 1V8 compatible.
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I've got a few items to dump and reprogram this firmware on the way. I'll try to post an update with my success/failure. Going to use this article as my guide:
https://github.com/lorf/csr-spi-ftdi/blob/master/README.md#csr-bluecore-usb-spi-programmer
https://github.com/lorf/csr-spi-ftdi/blob/master/README.md#csr-bluecore-usb-spi-programmer
I have the same board since december and it is a disappointment in several aspects:
1) poor connectivity
2) hiss
3) unresponsive buttons
4) loud beeps when pairing and pushing buttons
5) no sound until a button is pressed
maybe you were lucky to receive a "first run" board
My board is a marvel of engineering - No complaints. I must be lucky then. My board says v2.2. What is yours?
It's on bottom right corner vs photo on web is in upper right corner.
It's on bottom right corner vs photo on web is in upper right corner.
"marvel of engineering" would include stringed together output terminals for improved mechanical strength. Never understood why this is so uncommon in China. The terminals shown on the picture support it.
Also, the toroidal inductors should be RTV/glued down to stabilize them - otherwise can break off in transport. The output blocks don't bother me - as stringed together may be confusing to the user unless labeled very clearly. I wish it had wired inputs as an option. Most BT speakers have an Aux input option.
But for $12 I cannot complain given the value and noise free operation.
But for $12 I cannot complain given the value and noise free operation.
AUXin can be implemented by small changes in the configuration keys. Mic/Line shares the same input/PGA/ADC. The inputs are the 4 pins right below the differential out on the top right.
Like so:
This is how it works on the CSR8645, but the CSR8635 is similar in this point. To make this work, some configuration keys must be changed.
(Gain Setting, Line-In-Mode & Routing priority)
Fixing the hiss when not streaming audio can be fixed with disabling the low-power-mode for the audio stage.
So to make this finally work you'll need one of those CSR programmers.
Regards.
This is how it works on the CSR8645, but the CSR8635 is similar in this point. To make this work, some configuration keys must be changed.
(Gain Setting, Line-In-Mode & Routing priority)
Fixing the hiss when not streaming audio can be fixed with disabling the low-power-mode for the audio stage.
So to make this finally work you'll need one of those CSR programmers.
Regards.
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OK, I am thinking how to fit this board in a case and I have a question - how to push those tact switches when the board is in a case?
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