I did and I'm enjoying it immensely 🙂 - be it wraped and modulatetd :-D
//
Yes, I fully understand the cult following !!
Why not inputt this driver's parameters in SoundEasy or Clio if the choice of sealed design is choosed ? As the OP is not using DSP it could be interresting to look at the results of the filter with linearisation function and box size ?
experienced speaker builders will look towards the ratio of electrical Q
verses mechanical Q to give clues as to what size/type of enclosure to use.
We don't do "sims"
Eldam, please don't take this as a harsh response.
I really do enjoy your posts as your enthusiasm is very apparent !!
no problem Scott, an answer is an answer and has the meritt to be. Thanks for that. I believed the experienced builders could play with the variations of such results gived by those softs to save time.
This thread is pleasant for beginners like I am as the OP seems to use a coherent method to replace his lack of experience, and the driver seems also good enough despite its vented parameters. I just read Dickason book and Dapolitto one, but indeed lacks of experience to see in real how the parameters sound. But I can often hear what is problematic in a room or a speaker because a good experience of non amplified musical live events.
This thread is pleasant for beginners like I am as the OP seems to use a coherent method to replace his lack of experience, and the driver seems also good enough despite its vented parameters. I just read Dickason book and Dapolitto one, but indeed lacks of experience to see in real how the parameters sound. But I can often hear what is problematic in a room or a speaker because a good experience of non amplified musical live events.
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You could install this driver in a .7 cubic foot enclosure to try it vented, and then stuff the ports to compare the sound quality. Plus, you can always make the volume smaller by installing displacers, but you can never make it larger once it's built.
http://www.quarter-wave.com/OBs/OB_Design.pdf
Designing a Passive Two Way
Open Baffle Speaker System
Martin J. King
40 Dorsman Dr.
Clifton Park, NY 12065
MJKing57@aol.com
You are right Scott! I have to take that back. I was assuming too much.
So maybe his comments derive from a biased point of view. Or maybe he knows something we don't.
Why not inputt this driver's parameters in SoundEasy or Clio if the choice of sealed design is choosed ? As the OP is not using DSP it could be interresting to look at the results of the filter with linearisation function and box size ?
I did input the parameters in UniBox. That is what I've been talking about when I refer to Qtc of 0.71 for a 10 liter enclosure.
BTW, I am using DSP. It is used for digital crossover, driver linearization, and room correction. It's based on a software called Acourate.
Ah thanks I didn't remember this but now remember your old posts saying that, I have forgotten those items (too much wine those last days 😱).
You could certainly correct the phase of the vented port with the dsp in relation with the driver, but maybe you don't like the sharp roll off of a vented enclosure in the low end in relation to the smoother one of a sealed ?
I always prefered myself the sound of sealed box, but read now with such soft and experienced designers like there are here, they can deal better with vented load ! But maybe with harder work... I don't know.
(from the 12" Beyma I planned, I'm now myself towards futur 10" in sealed load, the B&C 10cl51 for its good price and higher spl in the 100 Hz plus range... despite the Qts of 0.39, they also advise a vented load only B&C 10CL51 10" Neodymium Woofer
so the inputs of your thread is full of Learning 🙂)
sorry for the OT.
You could certainly correct the phase of the vented port with the dsp in relation with the driver, but maybe you don't like the sharp roll off of a vented enclosure in the low end in relation to the smoother one of a sealed ?
I always prefered myself the sound of sealed box, but read now with such soft and experienced designers like there are here, they can deal better with vented load ! But maybe with harder work... I don't know.
(from the 12" Beyma I planned, I'm now myself towards futur 10" in sealed load, the B&C 10cl51 for its good price and higher spl in the 100 Hz plus range... despite the Qts of 0.39, they also advise a vented load only B&C 10CL51 10" Neodymium Woofer
so the inputs of your thread is full of Learning 🙂)
sorry for the OT.
You are right Scott! I have to take that back. I was assuming too much.
So maybe his comments derive from a biased point of view. Or maybe he knows something we don't.
I was addressing two concepts in my post. MJK is quite the knowledgeable person. I would NEVER doubt that, by any means.
His first inclination was that 10 liters was too small for a 10 inch woofer. I would agree and I don't give a RAT about what a "sim" says.
He then goes into his explanation with the ASSUMPTION that your 10 liter size is correct. Every thing he says about the velocity vs pressure in an enclosure is correct, 100% spot on.
There has already been plenty posted about a great way to construct an enclosure (especially by Derek, aka Overkill Audio) that I am not going to repeat it again here.
Lastly, I go into my usual rant against the open baffle cult. Otherwise, sane, normal persons, who have been sucked into this abyss always, always, will use the term "box". One of my bestest audio buddies belong to this cult. He visited the other day and from 2 rooms over and my hi-fi not even turned on, he proclaimed that he could always hear my "box" loudspeakers. As a matter of fact, about 3 incarnations ago, I did not have one single "box" in my system, and because it was not an open baffle he said he can still hear the "box". Open Baffle enthusiasts hear music in a different kind of way. It's still a mystery to me as to why.
I was addressing two concepts in my post. MJK is quite the knowledgeable person. I would NEVER doubt that, by any means.
His first inclination was that 10 liters was too small for a 10 inch woofer. I would agree and I don't give a RAT about what a "sim" says.
He then goes into his explanation with the ASSUMPTION that your 10 liter size is correct. Every thing he says about the velocity vs pressure in an enclosure is correct, 100% spot on.
There has already been plenty posted about a great way to construct an enclosure (especially by Derek, aka Overkill Audio) that I am not going to repeat it again here.
Lastly, I go into my usual rant against the open baffle cult. Otherwise, sane, normal persons, who have been sucked into this abyss always, always, will use the term "box". One of my bestest audio buddies belong to this cult. He visited the other day and from 2 rooms over and my hi-fi not even turned on, he proclaimed that he could always hear my "box" loudspeakers. As a matter of fact, about 3 incarnations ago, I did not have one single "box" in my system, and because it was not an open baffle he said he can still hear the "box". Open Baffle enthusiasts hear music in a different kind of way. It's still a mystery to me as to why.
Since you are referring to Derek, here's a quote from one of his posts a couple of weeks ago:
Using my own sim, a pair of 10G 40's per side, each driver in its own sealed Vb of 17 litres (10. 7 litres Vb, plus 2.5 litres for driver volume,plus 3.8 litres for cabinet wall damping) is good for 117dB at full 400 watts AES power...With zero Eq!
You can pretty much leave the low end "flat" and slightly pull down the 100Hz to 1,600 Hz if you need to.
The trick with Eq is to pull down the peaks untill the are more in line with the low end.
Boosting low end is more complex, still doable but harder to get right.
At this 117dB SPL the drivers will also be very close to their Xmax.
So to be safe, allow 5dB head room and you will have a "safe" 112dB available at 80Hz....You will need ear protection my friend!
Now this is a Sim, and I can tell you that it wont work out quite as loud due to your 80Hz crossover slopes not being brick-wall (unless you have DEQX?).
On the other hand room gain and having two speakers (the above is for a single loudspeaker with twin drivers) will more than compensate for the driver having to work a bit below 80Hz.
Bottom line is you have way, way, way plenty of headroom.....Twin 10 G 40's per side will rock and give your TPL tweeters a run for their money!
Also the 52g Mms with a good Bl of 17 gives good ratio of 3.05.
I used to use twin Volt 2500.4 with 54g Mms and 15.5 Bl giving a slightly "slower" driver ratio of 3.48. They were sweet sounding in sealed box, also great in open baffle, see attached....But thats all in the past now!
Cheers
Derek.
Here's the thread: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/283340-q-0-50-vs-0-71-a-8.html post #78
Earlier in that thread he confirmed he recommended going with a sealed enclosure with Qtc of 0.71 and correct the response with DSP. Then, in the post quoted above he took the 10G40, used a simulator, came up with Vb of 10.7 liters to reach Qtc of 0.71.
Just do it !!
In paragraph 4 he writes:
"Now this is a Sim, and I can tell you that it wont work out quite as loud due to your 80Hz crossover slopes not being brick-wall (unless you have DEQX?)."
You seem rather adamant about following the sim. So, just do it !
Since you are referring to Derek, here's a quote from one of his posts a couple of weeks ago:
Here's the thread: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/283340-q-0-50-vs-0-71-a-8.html post #78
Earlier in that thread he confirmed he recommended going with a sealed enclosure with Qtc of 0.71 and correct the response with DSP. Then, in the post quoted above he took the 10G40, used a simulator, came up with Vb of 10.7 liters to reach Qtc of 0.71.
In paragraph 4 he writes:
"Now this is a Sim, and I can tell you that it wont work out quite as loud due to your 80Hz crossover slopes not being brick-wall (unless you have DEQX?)."
You seem rather adamant about following the sim. So, just do it !
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