Car audio crossovers for home use

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I am posting here because nobody commented on ANALOG PRE-AMPS thread. I hope car audio fans might be able to help.

I am about to experiment with Home H-frame sub up to between 100 or 200 Hz and various FR drivers above that on open baffle. I have some 15" woofers low Qts and FS 40 Hz and a range of FR or wide range drivers, tweeters and even some super tweeters if required. My questions:
1. rather than rush out and buy 2 or 3 way expensive PA or hifi XOs or DSP I have some existing car audio XOs that I would like to try. I have regulated 12V supply for these.
2. I have a 2 way Coustic XM-1e Lo pass 18dB/octave switchable 50, 63,80,100 Hz turnover. Hi pass switchable 6 or 18 dB/octave at 80,100,125 Hz Harmonic distortion 0.1% @1V RMS input and adjustable output levels. PS hi pass can be fullrange ie: bypassing filters right?

PLUS Precision Power EPX-223 2 way XO with adjustable XO points from 50 - 5,000 Hz. This unit has very good S/N 102dB and total harmonic distortion 0.002% 1kHz @1V, XO slopes fixed at 12dB/octave and fixed output levels.

3. I have a selection of amps ranging from 10w valve (tube) integrated amp to bridgeable 4 channel SS power amp giving up to 180W per channel stereo, plus a LUX L-30 (30W) and L-430. (73W)

I would appreciate comments/suggestion/warnings about using the gear mentioned above, especially the quality of the two crossovers.

OZZIOZZI
 
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I don't have any definitive answers.

I would not expect high-pass to be full range unless you can set the low end of the high pass to 20hz.

Sound quality is subjective. Even if you don't find the quality to be acceptable with the crossovers you have, you can use the crossovers to experiment with various crossover points to determine if what you want to accomplish is possible with the rest of the equipment you have.
 
thanks Perry. What I forgot to mention is that Hi Pass freq adjust has a 0 (zero?) position below the 50Hz setting which I assume is down to 0 Hz ie DC. That way you could run sub from low pass section and fullrange from high pass output, maybe with a bit of buffering. I generally agree with you that both XOs are worth experimenting with. I was just hoping that someone on this forum thread had used either of them and could comment on the sound quality of each. You can't always tell from spec sheets or manufacturer's literature ;-) The Pecision power unit seems like it might be the best candidate for experiments. BTW, these units are hand-me-downs from my adult son who was very interested in car audio a few years back. A Google search showed the cheap Coustic XO is still selling on eBay for $49 as a "classic" and a manual is still available online for the PP one from the manufacturer.

Regards

OZZIOZZI
 
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I have a home theatre setup that relies on a car audio XO to split the signal out for a separate sub-amp; it works perfectly fine and quite well. The only real difference you'll find in car audio and home/professional studio equipment is the 12V DC power source requirement. Since I have an HTPC to control my projector, I spliced a 12V DC line from the power supply and use that to power the XO and also an enclosure ventilation fan.
 
Mesozoic thanks for the encouragement. Luckily I have a 13.8V 3A regulated power supply to run car XOs. I think I will use Precision Power XO at around 150-200Hz from 15" woofer to fullrange. How did you control volumes of sub and mains so they track together?
 
Mesozoic thanks for the encouragement. Luckily I have a 13.8V 3A regulated power supply to run car XOs. I think I will use Precision Power XO at around 150-200Hz from 15" woofer to fullrange. How did you control volumes of sub and mains so they track together?

I'm using a small Behringer mixer for volume control. I think that's definitely a necessary part of the equation, although if you were careful with how you configured the outputs on your HTPC you could have a software controlled mixer.
 
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