Whichever manufacturer they use, its likely a custom driver built to MK's specifications, so won't be available to the public.
If you wanted to copy one of their subs, I'd simply pick the nicest drivers available within your budget at the correct size, get some DSP and plenty of power.
Chris
If you wanted to copy one of their subs, I'd simply pick the nicest drivers available within your budget at the correct size, get some DSP and plenty of power.
Chris
I have some of their subs that sound amazing. I think I read somewhere in the distant past that they were done in house or special order specifically for M&k. But things may have changed since the company was resurrected. There are a couple well executed DIY push pull m&k subs around the net.
Last edited:
I tried to relocate a push/pull I seen a couple years back that utilizes peerless subs, its around in there somewhere you may have to dig around a little. If you have the know how and research and devise a plan you should be able to over build what m&k makes for a fraction of the cost, with better components. Some of their older subs including mine that are around 7 or 8 years old have stamped steel baskets. When I had one apart that surprised me a little for what they charge for their subs. Still great sounding subs that can pound and are musical and accurate. But as I was saying you should be able to well over build one and at lesser cost. Focus on a solidly made driver and a good quality proven amp with built in dsp. Something with an eq to boost bass in the sealed cab. Hypex comes to mind. Or separate DSP with a robust A/B 2ch Bryston. Thouh it would be hard to match the efficiency of a D unless you spend a lot more. Stay away from datyon imho.
If and when i get around to it, I would use these, as they're very cheap foe what they are.
2X Peerless XLS10 Subwoofer P830452 Loudspeaker Speaker | eBay
Have you ever considered building transmission line subs? They can seem intimidating but not terribly hard to execute if you have good and not to extravagant plans to follow. In stead of one big push pull have two TL's. I'm a two sub minimum guy, just my thought. If you have heard transmission line full range speakers you might share my enthusiasm. Ive heard transmission lines full ranges and they sound like the system already has subs, but does not. Like they were impressive subs Ill add.
This is the enclosure that is housing my two Peerless SLS subs at the moment
https://surfandsound.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/dscf5191.jpg
https://surfandsound.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/dscf5191.jpg
Clearly you know your stuff. I dont know, pick some thing 😎. I still think a basic sealed box done right can sound as superb as other designs, to a degree. Its the the necessary trade offs that give a speaker its shortcomings and the intended use. What do you mainly want to use them for? I still like the first idea, push/pull box. The factory medium large ones run so clean while shaking the walls 2 rooms over. Even the small ones are not slouches.
I've always worried about putting the Peerless XLS into a t-line as 'they' say that it's really for sealed, and to be used with a PR.
I think you thought right. I can think of ways they may keep levels down. Two drivers are working less than one to achieve a higher desired output so may not be as likely to enter the realms of distortion thats high enough to become audible and eventually break up a driver.
The drivers working together increases efficiency again, further lightening the work load should mean less distortion. Then the sealed box. They can be good for keeping distortion levels in check. Perhaps that ones a bonus.
If Im too far off I can take humbling criticism.
Those drivers are made specifically for M&K, and look to be of Taiwanese/Chinese origin. That is an off-the-shelf frame, commonly used for woofers/subwoofers to save the cost of tooling a custom frame. M&K used to use Eminence drivers, way back when, then switched to Asian drivers.
Regarding the push-pull idea - it's essentially the same as mounting two drivers in one box facing forward, but because one driver is inverted, distortion due to motor and suspension asymmetry is reduced. This type of distortion is well controlled in many (but not all) modern drivers if Klippel LSI analysis has been used during their design and appropriate corrective actions taken, but it's not always possible to make drivers perfectly symmetrical at their limits of excursion. Push-Pull is another method of reducing the net effect of asymmetry. Note that in a push-pull design the inverted driver is also wired with inverse polarity so that when the system is driven, both driver cones are pulling out of the box or pushing into the box at the same time - this is often a point of confusion for people just casually looking at the design.
Regarding the push-pull idea - it's essentially the same as mounting two drivers in one box facing forward, but because one driver is inverted, distortion due to motor and suspension asymmetry is reduced. This type of distortion is well controlled in many (but not all) modern drivers if Klippel LSI analysis has been used during their design and appropriate corrective actions taken, but it's not always possible to make drivers perfectly symmetrical at their limits of excursion. Push-Pull is another method of reducing the net effect of asymmetry. Note that in a push-pull design the inverted driver is also wired with inverse polarity so that when the system is driven, both driver cones are pulling out of the box or pushing into the box at the same time - this is often a point of confusion for people just casually looking at the design.
Not sure how one identifies the origin of a driver from the looks, however, most of the stuff is made in China regardless of the tiresome 'made in America' talk.
So basically ... a push pul design is the same as having a dual configuration ... but instead on sub is inverted ... have i got it?
Yes, the performance is basically the same as a dual driver subwoofer where both drivers are facing out. The good news is you can do this with any cone driver, and you can do it in a sealed, vented, or passive radiator configuration (or even a horn or "tapped horn" configuration, if you're a woodworking masochist.)
- Status
- Not open for further replies.