Is that for two amplifiers and a chassis?
Is it a kit, or ready built?
If a kit, what kind of customer support can they give?
Is it a kit, or ready built?
If a kit, what kind of customer support can they give?
Two amp boards with full power supply in the chassis shown, ready built - doing that myself wouldn't be cheaper, I guess - even bearing in mind shipping and custom charges - that's why it has caught my attention.
Thx for the responses.
Thx for the responses.
Ready built means you can test it on arrival.
If it does not work to specification, then you demand a full refund.
If it does not work to specification, then you demand a full refund.
Go the whole hog with the curiously named
Nobsound NS-02 HD1969 Gold Pure Class A amplifier. It may or may not be a JLH but it's very Bling.
There's buckets of them out there.
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i noticed a lot of stuff from these guys on ebay, a daft choice of name by all accounts!
I am still toying with the idea of getting a JLH amp. Has anybody used them with Tannoy Arden? Would they be suitable match at 90db sensitivity?
How loud do you listen to music?
Party music loud, enjoyably loud, or background music loud?
🙂
The 10W version will be borderline acceptable.
The 25W version definitely ok.
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It will depend a little on your choice of music - I run Ariels which have a similar db/w, at about 3m from the couch.
10W is plenty loud enough for most things but a few bass heavy "dance" tracks (e.g. Depeche Mode "Personal Jesus") run out of steam & audibly clip.
On the other hand other supposedly loud and bass heavy music such as Philip Glass "Koyaanisqatsi" and Black Sabbath "Paranoid" are fine at too-loud-to-talk-comfortably levels.
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Tannoy Arden Manual - Heavyweight Loudspeaker System - HiFi Engine
The Ardens are are sensitive enough at 91 dB but they are quite large and probably more than a match for the 10W JLH in their home turf, which would be in larger rooms. There is a 20W JLH version too, but that will not really offer more than a couple of dB boost.
If you like "comfortably loud" music, I would be thinking more in terms of 60-100W solid state amplifiers to keep the bass tight with those elderly concentric drivers.
The Ardens are are sensitive enough at 91 dB but they are quite large and probably more than a match for the 10W JLH in their home turf, which would be in larger rooms. There is a 20W JLH version too, but that will not really offer more than a couple of dB boost.
If you like "comfortably loud" music, I would be thinking more in terms of 60-100W solid state amplifiers to keep the bass tight with those elderly concentric drivers.
I wish I had built the Arden (200litres) clone instead of the Berkley (100litres) clone from my pair of HPD385 Dual concentric drivers.
It wasn't until I did an isobaric experiment with the 100litre box, that I discovered how good and strong the low bass can become.
I have since bought Tannoy Leopards.
All of these relish ~100W amplifiers.
I would not dream of serious listening to 15" DC Tannoys with ONLY 10W
It wasn't until I did an isobaric experiment with the 100litre box, that I discovered how good and strong the low bass can become.
I have since bought Tannoy Leopards.
All of these relish ~100W amplifiers.
I would not dream of serious listening to 15" DC Tannoys with ONLY 10W
Hello everyone ! The JLH is an amp that I know well. I only use the first 1969 version because it is the easiest and for me the best. There are many available kit and this one is excellent and cheap but need some changes:
LJM Hood JLH 1969 Class A Power Amp Kit 2 Channel Amplifier 10W 10W | eBay
The 2SD1047 is for the moment, the best transistor that I had with the JLH. I tested the 2N3055, MJ15003, 2SC3519. The 1047 is the best.
To get the most of this amp, you must treat the input and output capacitors with care. Also, it is necessary to resume the output directly on the legs of the transistors and put capacitors outside the pcb. The capacitors need to be decoupled: // 4700 //470uF //47 uf // 4.7 uf // 0.47 // 0.01uF. The output capacitors I use are panasonic FC and Silmic II. The 4 uf is a Russian mbgo the 0.47 and 0.01 a MKP Roederstein. Never 4700 // 0.1 uf !! never.
As said Nelson Pass. A good capacitor will always be better than a good output transformer on a tube amp. I completely agree with him. I listen to the JLH, I close my eyes, the instruments are with me and I hear a very good tube amp but I see no tubes ... I prefer the JLH at Hiraga Monster (with original transistor and battery 45 ah ). This is the best amp I've had with my 300B se and it drive perfectly my Klipsch rf82 and fostex fullrange.
Guillaume
LJM Hood JLH 1969 Class A Power Amp Kit 2 Channel Amplifier 10W 10W | eBay
The 2SD1047 is for the moment, the best transistor that I had with the JLH. I tested the 2N3055, MJ15003, 2SC3519. The 1047 is the best.
To get the most of this amp, you must treat the input and output capacitors with care. Also, it is necessary to resume the output directly on the legs of the transistors and put capacitors outside the pcb. The capacitors need to be decoupled: // 4700 //470uF //47 uf // 4.7 uf // 0.47 // 0.01uF. The output capacitors I use are panasonic FC and Silmic II. The 4 uf is a Russian mbgo the 0.47 and 0.01 a MKP Roederstein. Never 4700 // 0.1 uf !! never.
As said Nelson Pass. A good capacitor will always be better than a good output transformer on a tube amp. I completely agree with him. I listen to the JLH, I close my eyes, the instruments are with me and I hear a very good tube amp but I see no tubes ... I prefer the JLH at Hiraga Monster (with original transistor and battery 45 ah ). This is the best amp I've had with my 300B se and it drive perfectly my Klipsch rf82 and fostex fullrange.
Guillaume
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It is funny that the 2SB1047 is now produced by ST, but the complementary 2SB817 by OnSemi.
I thought that OnSemi took over everything from Sanyo Semi ??
Patrick
I thought that OnSemi took over everything from Sanyo Semi ??
Patrick
Bonjour Guillaume,
Most people will either use a single 4700uF or 4700uF//0.1uF. I have never heard people use so many decoupling capacitor but I guess it's worth a try.
BR,
Eric
I have a book about tube amps in which all shema have capacitors decoupled by value divided by 10. I tried and since I don't otherwise on input or output coupling capacitors because there's more transparency and clarity.
Brands such as audio research and schematics renamed as those of Jean Hiraga use much the decoupling.
Decoupling capacitors allows to linearize impedance. A large capacitor has an impedance which becomes high in the high frequencies. The capacitor decoupled with a too little is worse than no decoupling at all because it causes a peak in the impedance curve. The fact DECOUPLING \ 10 allows to have a perfectly linear impedance. This means a lot especially if the capacitor is on the signal traject. Try it !! It is Very audible !
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I use 20,000uF on the output. With electrolytics you want large values, to push the corner frequency out of the audio range - minimizes distortion by ensuring negligible a.c. across the cap.