@billshurv
I think you need glasses. Michael Bean said "early 100 watts from a single LM3886 chip? I do not think so, I find That claim troubling."
No, you posted the THD curves and I responded to that. Glad you have sorted your amplifier. Please now go away and stop crapping on the S/N ratio of this thread.
EPCOS B41505A7189M000 CAP, ALUM ELECT, 18000UF, 35V, CAN
-> B41505A7189M000 - EPCOS - COND, ELEC ALUM, 18000UF, 35V, SNAP IN | Farnell element14 España
DC trap/blocker/filter for toroidal transformers - assembled in case
-> DC Trap Blocker Filter for Toroidal Transformers Assembled in Case | eBay
-> B41505A7189M000 - EPCOS - COND, ELEC ALUM, 18000UF, 35V, SNAP IN | Farnell element14 España
DC trap/blocker/filter for toroidal transformers - assembled in case
-> DC Trap Blocker Filter for Toroidal Transformers Assembled in Case | eBay
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
My first Dc blocker was with EPCOS 15,000 microF 85ºC. The second was with WPCOS 18,000 microF 105 ºC and the sound was better.
Maty, it is totally OK to say "I prefer white wine over red wine", but "White wine is better than red wine because 372 pounds of canned tuna" doesn't really fly....
Who has to go out will be you, by rude I think.
The train has already gone, would you like to hire a bicycle? My hovercraft is full of eels!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I hope you realize that that with that circuit, any significant DC on you mains will either blow the diodes or cause a fire, and the circuit will probably trip your earth leakage circuit breaker (if it doesn't electrocute you first).
If you had read what explains the link to the product on ebay, it incorporates a slow fuse of 6.3A and a varistor (both at my request).
My first DC Blocker (EPCOS 15,000 microF 85ºC) is the prototype, designed with my suggestions by Aleksandar.
I studied all I found on the net and came to the conclusion that this was the best. And the holes (up and down) to dissipate the heat.
My first DC Blocker (EPCOS 15,000 microF 85ºC) is the prototype, designed with my suggestions by Aleksandar.
I studied all I found on the net and came to the conclusion that this was the best. And the holes (up and down) to dissipate the heat.
Modulus-86: Composite amplifier achieving <0.0004 % THD+N.
I have tried DC blocker circuits, have not heard any difference. Compared with power cable differences and emi filters. I just don't' hear any difference.
I have tried DC blocker circuits, have not heard any difference. Compared with power cable differences and emi filters. I just don't' hear any difference.
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Modulus-86: Composite amplifier achieving <0.0004 % THD+N.
sorry hit the wrong button and cannot delete this.I have tried DC blocker circuits and have not heard any difference.
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wow people who build a kit have expectations that it will sound good. Who would have thought that. I am flabbergasted.
the GT101 seems to have pretty much spec sheet performance, so around 1000 times worse than the Mod-86. Should sound as good as any other chip amp using the Nat semi data sheet.
If the words of the unwashed are what you want to hear, build that.
Disagree. Bare LM3886 with spec sheet performance provides a great listening experience without builders bias coming into play, provided the power supply and down link are beyond reproach.
The main advantage I see in the mod-86 is that it is much better resistant to radio frequency interference, power supply deviations and loudspeaker idiosyncrasies. The difference in distortion, not a three orders of magnitude by the way, in itself falls below the threshold of human perception.
Disagree. Bare LM3886 with spec sheet performance provides a great listening experience without builders bias coming into play, provided the power supply and down link are beyond reproach.
The main advantage I see in the mod-86 is that it is much better resistant to radio frequency interference, power supply deviations and loudspeaker idiosyncrasies. The difference in distortion, not a three orders of magnitude by the way, in itself falls below the threshold of human perception.
I never said the bare LM3886 to spec didn't. Just pointing out that reviews by people who have just soldered a board together WILL be biased by expectation. Well known in DIY.
I saw think end of a 1000 fold difference comparing plots, but not worth worrying about as you say.
Who has to go out will be you, by rude I think.
This is not the lounge, its a vendors thread. We don't give a s**t about your experiments. You are being another thread troll and should realise that.
I have not been rude yet, but believe me I am very close to transgressing a couple of forum rules with you.
The lounge exists for confused individuals like yourself to wibble in peace. This is not the lounge.
This is not the lounge, its a vendors thread. We don't give a s**t about your experiments. You are being another thread troll and should realise that.
I have not been rude yet, but believe me I am very close to transgressing a couple of forum rules with you.
The lounge exists for confused individuals like yourself to wibble in peace. This is not the lounge.
Wow, I would like to see what you are going to do with the guy next.!!!
@vacuphile: OK my memory was poor. I did actually compare numbers and the GT-101 is only about 10dB worse on straight THD measurements (yada yada different test setups your mileage may vary etc). What is interesting is that it uses a regulated supply to meet these numbers. A valid approach, although not one I would personally take.
A couple comments:
- Hypex power supply. Hypex is pretty clear about their supplies not being rated for continuous high output. Not a surprise that it shut down in Tom's testing.
- Slew rate. First, this term is really only applicable to amplifiers where the input stage is (or is very similar to) a differential pair driving a Miller compensated second stage. Many newer topologies don't have the same correlation between bandwidth and slew rate. That said, a good rule of thumb is that in order to minimize slew (or slew-like) effects on distortion, your slew rate should be 10X what you would calculate as the max slew of a full output sine waver at the highest frequency signal. However, in audio reproduction we are not likely to need to drive the amp's full output at 20kHz. Thus the rule of thumb is not applicable in this situation. Nice to have but not essential for good performance.
- Hypex power supply. Hypex is pretty clear about their supplies not being rated for continuous high output. Not a surprise that it shut down in Tom's testing.
- Slew rate. First, this term is really only applicable to amplifiers where the input stage is (or is very similar to) a differential pair driving a Miller compensated second stage. Many newer topologies don't have the same correlation between bandwidth and slew rate. That said, a good rule of thumb is that in order to minimize slew (or slew-like) effects on distortion, your slew rate should be 10X what you would calculate as the max slew of a full output sine waver at the highest frequency signal. However, in audio reproduction we are not likely to need to drive the amp's full output at 20kHz. Thus the rule of thumb is not applicable in this situation. Nice to have but not essential for good performance.
You are another noise source we could do without.
Seriously, built yourself an anechoic chamber and live in it. Would be nice and quite. Be sure that it is built to your spec and properly tested though. You never know what you will get otherwise.
Slew rate is an interesting parameter, I am wondering whether it might have any relation with any form of inter modulation distortion. But the preamps that I have listened to with high slew rates always seem to reveal more detail.
Wow guys .....
If I may, I would like to interrupt the fun and games with an actual Mod-86 question. (FWW - have been running my for several months and am completely happy with performance)
My question is, the other morning I managed to fumble and cycle the on/off switch:
On-Off then On again in space of half second which generated a nasty high frequency oscillation that seemed a prelude to welding my tweeter motors. I assume this has something to do with a charge/discharge cycle and is easily prevented with adequate motor skills and more coffee.
Being that I'm more or less an illliteraate-newb (Ha-misspelled that on purpose . . .) (I do own a sense of humor) and a curious one at that, I would like to understand better what was going on with the amp internally to generate the noise.
Informed opinions or random speculation anyone??
Cheers
If I may, I would like to interrupt the fun and games with an actual Mod-86 question. (FWW - have been running my for several months and am completely happy with performance)
My question is, the other morning I managed to fumble and cycle the on/off switch:
On-Off then On again in space of half second which generated a nasty high frequency oscillation that seemed a prelude to welding my tweeter motors. I assume this has something to do with a charge/discharge cycle and is easily prevented with adequate motor skills and more coffee.
Being that I'm more or less an illliteraate-newb (Ha-misspelled that on purpose . . .) (I do own a sense of humor) and a curious one at that, I would like to understand better what was going on with the amp internally to generate the noise.
Informed opinions or random speculation anyone??
Cheers
Seriously, built yourself an anechoic chamber and live in it. Would be nice and quite. Be sure that it is built to your spec and properly tested though. You never know what you will get otherwise.
I hope to $DEITY I never have the misfortune of actually meeting you.
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