In this application, yes. All Zeners are noisy if operated at only a few percent of their maximum current.
Above 5.6V or so, Zeners are actually avalanche devices. Only diode voltages below this are true Zeners,
without the excess avalanche noise. Also the voltage regulation will be much worse at low currents,
and will vary much more with the line voltage.
The long time constant RC filter that is part of the bias network will help minimize the noise, though.
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boys , 100mW part will work perfectly fine
little analysis can't harm
current through it is here : (Urail - Uzenner)/10K
so , say , 14V/10K=1.4mA , resulting in bloody 1.4mAx9V1=12.74mW of dissipation
that's what one can call power de-rating factor
all that according to schm in attached file , or schm in post #1 on this very thread
Alright then, I'll get that one. Done.
Russellc
Interesting...and that book is a year older than I am.
Looks like a more modern book would've been published by now.
Looks like a more modern book would've been published by now.
C1 and C2 Mouser recommendations please, the Nichicon I was ordering requires minimum of 250. The Elna Silmic II I list here appears to fit the silk, data sheet a little confusing, but I think it is 18mm dia., max on the silk, and I THINK, 7.5 leg space, which seems to equal the larger leg holes.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail.../H2hxu8sBECjRNMNNljZknqx9A17zQ5A9fGA/e%2bKQMG
Whats everyone using thats quality, and preferably at Mouser?
Or did I find it?
Thank you, finger on "place order button" for balance of needed parts,
Russellc
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail.../H2hxu8sBECjRNMNNljZknqx9A17zQ5A9fGA/e%2bKQMG
Whats everyone using thats quality, and preferably at Mouser?
Or did I find it?
Thank you, finger on "place order button" for balance of needed parts,
Russellc
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UFG1E102MHM Nichicon | Mouser
UKZ1E102MHM Nichicon | Mouser
The Panny FC that ammel68 linked are awesome as well.
UKZ1E102MHM Nichicon | Mouser
The Panny FC that ammel68 linked are awesome as well.
Oh yes, yours and the silmics, I always order more than called for and throw it in the spare parts box. I need more caps for another BA-3 preamp as well. All resistors I didnt have on hand, the zeners, etc. I already have an Antek 18 + 18 500 VA transformer, only need the chassis unless I pirate the F-5, but I really want the store box for consistency and the pre drilled holes of course! (I made the F-5 box) Well, from pre cut panels Westend cut for me. I still find Aluminum shavings from all the drilling and tapping. Soldering in the resistors I have on hand to the F-6 boards.
Russellc
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For messy jobs, especially aluminum filing and sanding, I cut a large piece of plastic sheeting to protect the work area. Once the work is finished, I carefully fold it and throw it in the trash. It saves a lot of cleaning effort.
Frost King E/O 48 in. x 25 ft. Crystal Clear Plastic Vinyl Sheeting-V4825/4A - The Home Depot
Frost King E/O 48 in. x 25 ft. Crystal Clear Plastic Vinyl Sheeting-V4825/4A - The Home Depot
You must not have 3 cat helpers😀 Yes, I even did it out in the garage, it still got tracked around, and would turn up where you least expected it. I got really spoiled on the BA-3 amp build with the Deluxe 5U case....no aluminum splinters, but at a definite premium!
Russellc
Small but without doubt an Impolitic question 🙄
Viewing the Assorted Signatures and the surprising number of Amps typically contained therein.
Simple observation is that Many are Seeing Building Amps..adnauseam as their actual Hobby.
As opposed to DIY'ing their Hardware to enable /better utilise their Software (Music)
Is there Any semblance of truth in this simple observation?
Just asking?
Viewing the Assorted Signatures and the surprising number of Amps typically contained therein.
Simple observation is that Many are Seeing Building Amps..adnauseam as their actual Hobby.
As opposed to DIY'ing their Hardware to enable /better utilise their Software (Music)
Is there Any semblance of truth in this simple observation?
Just asking?
That's my biggest hang-up right now is a case.
The F6 will be my first power amp build and I've already found out that large cases are very expensive $$$.
The price of all the other parts I can live with, but $300-$400 for a case?? 😱
Yeah, building from scrapes of 1/8 inch 6061 aluminum is way cheaper. Faceplate was thicker, found some nice handles on Ebay. Westend cut the panels to size using a tablesaw, with special blade. I think I had 50-60 bucks in it, but a bizzillon hours of filing, drilling and tapping!
These require drilling but cheaper:
Audio Catalog
Other members were discussing them in the Aleph J thread. Very cheap, about 80 bucks shipping and still the infernal drilling and tapping!
I'm just waiting to be bucks up...I need two, Aleph J is ready to get a case too!
Russellc
No, I think its a chicken egg thing, better amps with which to enjoy software. Plus, I usually have multiple systems in my house, Basement, bedroom, spare bedrooms, and living room...different types of stuff in each.
A hobby? Ahhh, well yeah! This is DIY audio, many/most of same people many many projects. I blame 6L6, theres always one more "crazy good amp" to build...yup. I need crazy good projects.
This has been one of my best DIY years, BA-3 pre, BA-3 amp, Pearl 2...all large upgrades for me. Now, Aleph J and F-6...previously it was B-1 and F-5, few short years ago. Few years previous to that it was speakers, Econowave craze with Zilch...I built #4.
Prior to that it was DIY tubes, pres, phonos, and amps...along with Mcintosh restorations. Hobby? More like obsession!😀
Russellc
you will never regret to have 2 nice chassis, get other model if standard case is boring. chassis and psu is your biggest investment for class a amplifier
get this chassis:
m.ebay.com/itm/281368571725
