Hello all,
Lately my integrated amps direct-subsonic switch makes lots of scratchy noises, sometimes channels cut randomly.. I tried to cleaned the switch several times without success. It's an ancient Alps SRBV-22, two position rotary. I tried to source a spare part, looks like that part is long gone, out of production. In addition I couldn't find any datasheet about this part. Alps has new SRBV series, but there is no two position switch anymore....
Is anyone knows a substitute? If I couldn't find any spare for this I want to dismiss the switch and hardwire as direct. In this case; which legs must be shorted?
Thanks..
Lately my integrated amps direct-subsonic switch makes lots of scratchy noises, sometimes channels cut randomly.. I tried to cleaned the switch several times without success. It's an ancient Alps SRBV-22, two position rotary. I tried to source a spare part, looks like that part is long gone, out of production. In addition I couldn't find any datasheet about this part. Alps has new SRBV series, but there is no two position switch anymore....
Is anyone knows a substitute? If I couldn't find any spare for this I want to dismiss the switch and hardwire as direct. In this case; which legs must be shorted?
Thanks..
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Because...It looks beautiful as it is;
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Clifforrest, same for right channel?
Left :
Disconnect 7, strap 5&6
Right :
Disconnect 2, strap 1&3
Am I right? I want it to operate direct mode only. No tone controls or anything.. I'm using it that way for years. Never needed to use tone controls or loudness..
Full schematic for switch > tone pcb;
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
No, you need to link the switch as it is shown in the schematic, so 2&3 must be joined, therefore 1 open.
Akai am 69 fails in the selector switch ... Resulting loosing one of the ch in various inputs
Careful the amp might be fooling you around
it will be very easy to find a 2 position 4 con rotary switch ...It will fit in the same place and also the shaft could be made also to fit the knob easily...the rest behind it will be a few cm of wire ...
If you have selector switch problem it can also be replaced with a not mechanical one but obviously this will not be an easy fix ..
again trying to locate the input selector switch will end nowhere since half the globe is looking for it ..
Regards
Sakis
Careful the amp might be fooling you around
it will be very easy to find a 2 position 4 con rotary switch ...It will fit in the same place and also the shaft could be made also to fit the knob easily...the rest behind it will be a few cm of wire ...
If you have selector switch problem it can also be replaced with a not mechanical one but obviously this will not be an easy fix ..
again trying to locate the input selector switch will end nowhere since half the globe is looking for it ..
Regards
Sakis
Sakis, luckily i don't have any problem with the selector switch. Direct-Subsonic switch gave up. It was going like this since last year. I cleaned this switch several times, but cleaners won't work anymore. Problem with the substitute is; there is a little room for switch body, very narrow place between chassis and the switch pcb, also there is a blade type connector that connects control board and switch pcb. Seems like you know this late Akai line very well 😉
i do..... i have been repairing plenty i actually have one on my bench as we speak Will finish working with it some time by the end of the week
By having the amp in front of me as we speak i might be able to look at the switch once more to see .
A very clever source for these parts is Yamaha shops ...you will be very surprised to see that they actually hold plenty of parts ...Now you need to look maaaaaany Yamaha service manuals and be sure that one of them is using the same switch actually its also using the same selector switch but as far as i know this is unobtainable ...
Obviously expect that going to a Yamaha shop with an AKAI part you are going to be laughed at ... But if you go with a Yamaha part number it will work like a charm
We do that very often with grate success.
Give me a couple of days i will look in to it
By having the amp in front of me as we speak i might be able to look at the switch once more to see .
A very clever source for these parts is Yamaha shops ...you will be very surprised to see that they actually hold plenty of parts ...Now you need to look maaaaaany Yamaha service manuals and be sure that one of them is using the same switch actually its also using the same selector switch but as far as i know this is unobtainable ...
Obviously expect that going to a Yamaha shop with an AKAI part you are going to be laughed at ... But if you go with a Yamaha part number it will work like a charm
We do that very often with grate success.
Give me a couple of days i will look in to it
The AKAI is a very good consumer machine Never had troubles with them selector switch fails, sometimes relays loose contacts in low power level and the regulator board creates soldering / capacitor issues ( cooling there is a bit on the edge )
Thats about it.
there is 12 of them registered in our data base the latest 5 years 3 of them had the switch replaced with a non motorized type, one of them replaced with a relay board, the rest walk away with it with good cleaning and all of them suffered the above problems ...
Thats about it.
there is 12 of them registered in our data base the latest 5 years 3 of them had the switch replaced with a non motorized type, one of them replaced with a relay board, the rest walk away with it with good cleaning and all of them suffered the above problems ...
Hi there are a few rotary switches that can be "programmed" (you see, I adapt to 2015) to a 2 position one. I have some of those but... they don't have a knurled axis. Or does the Akai have D shaped axis ?
Clifforrest, I was going to do modifications last night. I wanted to check schematics & wiring diagram for the last time and decided to check switch position and shorted pins with DMM. For left channel, direct mode shorts pin 5&6, for right channel it shorts 1&3 (maybe switch does not operate properly for both channel, don't know).. Please check first message with diagram. It shows pin 2 as subsonic(R). But on the wiring diagram (which I attached to this reply) shows pin 1 as subsonic(R). Also we are joining L channel input (pin 6) to pin 5. But for the right channel input goes directly to pin 1, and we are goint to join pin 2&3. I'm not good at reading schematics at all. As you see; I'm really confused about this. Can you please check and explain?
sb.
Attachments
Sakis, that Yamaha spares are a great advice. Thanks a lot. I removed and dismantle direct switch last night. Looks like it's dead. Wiper and contact point are damaged psychically. Alps has new SRBV series, but min positions are 3 and contact points and dummy's are different. So I removed from pcb and isolated and mounted to chassis as is. Service manual wiring diagram and schematic shows different wiring pins for subsonic and direct, schematic shows pin 2 as subsonic, wiring diagram shows pin 1 as subsonic. Switch position and shorted pins also made me confused a bit more.
Also I'm using 30w ersa soldering iron, but pcb solder pads are so delicate, even with this low power iron pads are easily lifts from the traces.. 😕
I agree with you. This amp with me since 20 years, no problems except switchs. I recapped this one a year ago, used silmics on the signal path. Studied hard for modifying dac board opamps. Used sip8 converters with smd opamps. Results are very good. I had lots of mid level gear in my stash, this one beats them all.
Hi Jean-Paul, Akai have D shaped axis. Can you please explain this 'programmable' switchs a little bit?
Thanks!
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