Not stupid, but you're asking about a driver that's not widely used, in a 2 way design, in the single driver forum, so I suggest some patience and/or trying the 2 way section.
Oops. I was searching with the Driver number did not realize it was under "Full Range", But then I am specific to this driver. Not sure, posting it again on Two-way becomes double/duplicate posting...
I wonder why are there not so many people using this driver... It is less then half the price of a MarkAudio 5" aluminium cone and it seems to have good freq response till high up, unlike TB W5-1611 which from reports here seems kind of dull...
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It's actually an interesting driver - in the SS 10F price range but with bass capability. Not as flat response of course but goes to 25kHz for a 5in driver.
http://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/296-723-fountek-fr135ex-specifications.PDF
Currently available on PE for $99.
http://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/296-723-fountek-fr135ex-specifications.PDF
Currently available on PE for $99.
Yes, I find it rather interesting... And currently raising funds to buy a pair to use in a FAST soundbar... I hope it's worth it, but it's pretty hard to get an oppinion on them, they are a rare buy compared with CHR-70 for example (that would be my second choice)
Actually, with a +/-5mm linear Xmax I think it can really punch some bass on it's own, but I plan to use it with a 6" subwoofer to releave it from really low bass duties
Actually, with a +/-5mm linear Xmax I think it can really punch some bass on it's own, but I plan to use it with a 6" subwoofer to releave it from really low bass duties
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So far, only one of our FASTs have used a driver larger than 6.5" (a MJK OB with 15" eminence) althou we typically use at least 2 of them. Our next fast build uses 2 5.25" (Silver FLute W14) in a push-push ML-TL.
I am most amazed thou at how well the Peerless 4" (830870) does in an ML-TL.
We are (slowly) working on a FAST with 2 sealed 12" per side.
Use the woofer that works for you.
dave
I am most amazed thou at how well the Peerless 4" (830870) does in an ML-TL.
We are (slowly) working on a FAST with 2 sealed 12" per side.
Use the woofer that works for you.
dave
Well, I might have used a wrong word... not relieve, rather augment. I still do not have a clear ideea of what might be the best way, that's why I have asked here about it, because I saw too few opinions about it.
Also I am a bit unsure what way would be "best". I thought to use it sealed in 6l and use the subwoofer vented in 9l. Or use it in vented too, still 6l. I could hi-pass at 100Hz and let the subwoofer take it from there, or I could let it roll-off naturally and just let the sub just help enforce lower frequencies. If vented or sealed, still don't know. I chose this subwoofer because it's a clone of TB-1139, cheap and it works in small spaces, which is paramount as I have little space/volume for it, being a soundbar. Aproximative dimensions being 1000x350x160mm, so it wound be one FR135EX front and one SW6.01 up-firing per side, because The TV base is blocking the center and i didn't wanted to down-fire them as it would mean I needed legs, so it would be even taller, which I already went over the planned dimensions (at start 🙂 )
I made a quick WinISD test here. Sub is plotted at 1.6W to be on the same line.
Also I am a bit unsure what way would be "best". I thought to use it sealed in 6l and use the subwoofer vented in 9l. Or use it in vented too, still 6l. I could hi-pass at 100Hz and let the subwoofer take it from there, or I could let it roll-off naturally and just let the sub just help enforce lower frequencies. If vented or sealed, still don't know. I chose this subwoofer because it's a clone of TB-1139, cheap and it works in small spaces, which is paramount as I have little space/volume for it, being a soundbar. Aproximative dimensions being 1000x350x160mm, so it wound be one FR135EX front and one SW6.01 up-firing per side, because The TV base is blocking the center and i didn't wanted to down-fire them as it would mean I needed legs, so it would be even taller, which I already went over the planned dimensions (at start 🙂 )
I made a quick WinISD test here. Sub is plotted at 1.6W to be on the same line.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Planet10 is right, use the woofer you like, but when smaller ones are used, you need more of them to move enough air without getting distortion due to excessive cone movement. Dual 6.5's can work well. I used 6 x 6.5's once and it was real nice.
The full range, in this case, the FR135EX will benefit the most if it is crossed well above the point at which HD starts to rise. Typically this is around 200Hz to 300Hz. Basically, to make bass below 200Hz requires a lot more motion from the cone and motion causes increased distortion as the suspensions and the motor are working in the 1+ mm range of motion.
Typically, I like to XO at 350Hz as the full range coherence is still maintained while the bass is handled by a larger area woofer. Especially the 80Hz to 125Hz where the punch to the chest can be felt is driven by a larger driver capable of "punching".
The full range, in this case, the FR135EX will benefit the most if it is crossed well above the point at which HD starts to rise. Typically this is around 200Hz to 300Hz. Basically, to make bass below 200Hz requires a lot more motion from the cone and motion causes increased distortion as the suspensions and the motor are working in the 1+ mm range of motion.
Typically, I like to XO at 350Hz as the full range coherence is still maintained while the bass is handled by a larger area woofer. Especially the 80Hz to 125Hz where the punch to the chest can be felt is driven by a larger driver capable of "punching".
Would it make a difference if the sub is firing up, if crossed higher in frequency? For example if I highpass at 200Hz (4th order active) and the sub lowpass at 200 also, would have a detrimental effect to SQ if the sound is directed upwards?
The width of the soundbar is 1m, which means the baffle step would be at 113Hz... Would it make sense to use that freq for the crossover?
Also, considering the size of the driver, what would be the absolute minimum hight I could use for the build? The cutout for the driver is 115mm but the metal frame is 145mm. Could I even cut into the frame a bit? Thanks
Edit: this is what I would use, with the 3118 Sanwu amp for FR. For sub it would be needed 2x100W so probably something else
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Fini...nished-board-Crossover-3-5kHz/1646771301.html
The width of the soundbar is 1m, which means the baffle step would be at 113Hz... Would it make sense to use that freq for the crossover?
Also, considering the size of the driver, what would be the absolute minimum hight I could use for the build? The cutout for the driver is 115mm but the metal frame is 145mm. Could I even cut into the frame a bit? Thanks
Edit: this is what I would use, with the 3118 Sanwu amp for FR. For sub it would be needed 2x100W so probably something else
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Fini...nished-board-Crossover-3-5kHz/1646771301.html
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