Hi, just manager to start building my boards after I left them untouched for some years, and I have some doubts:
I inverted R37 and R12. They are both 3,3k but I soldered the big one in R12: any problem..?
I have 2x25 160va toroid laying there, I suppose it is ok but I ask for your confirmation, guys...
Thanks!
I inverted R37 and R12. They are both 3,3k but I soldered the big one in R12: any problem..?
I have 2x25 160va toroid laying there, I suppose it is ok but I ask for your confirmation, guys...
Thanks!
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The swapped 3k3 resistors shouldn't be a problem, but post a pic or mention the series/type of each one to get a better idea.
The trafo should be fine.
Thanks linuxguru, here is a pic: they are PRP that came with Uriah package...
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Sorry, a smaller one with the detailed resistors...
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I think the resistors are fine - I'd use the bigger (GP1/2) at R12 and the smaller (GP1/4) at R37 as you have done.
However, I think that C34 is incorrect - you need a 10pF at that location, while your pic shows a Wima, which is not available in 10pF. Please recheck your parts again.
However, I think that C34 is incorrect - you need a 10pF at that location, while your pic shows a Wima, which is not available in 10pF. Please recheck your parts again.
Thanks again linuxguru, fortunately I found this in the bottom of the parts bag, it should be the one you refer to, right?
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that could be a 10pF or 100pF ceramic.
Since it is a low value it is very likely to be a NP0/C0G type.
You can check this with a capacitance meter and heating the capacitor.
If the value changes by <+-2% from 20°C to 80°C, then it is NP0.
If it changes >10%, then it is Hi K.
I don't know how to determine if it's between 2% and 10% ?
Since it is a low value it is very likely to be a NP0/C0G type.
You can check this with a capacitance meter and heating the capacitor.
If the value changes by <+-2% from 20°C to 80°C, then it is NP0.
If it changes >10%, then it is Hi K.
I don't know how to determine if it's between 2% and 10% ?
Thanks Andrew!
My probkem is that I don't have an enough accurate multimeter (work till nanofarads).
This is how I managed with my 3 small caps I have in Uriah bags.
Was it a mistake in the supplied caps, as far as you all know, or am I simply confused?
Of course I was meaning pF, not pU
My probkem is that I don't have an enough accurate multimeter (work till nanofarads).
This is how I managed with my 3 small caps I have in Uriah bags.
Was it a mistake in the supplied caps, as far as you all know, or am I simply confused?
Of course I was meaning pF, not pU
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221 = 22 and 10^1 = 22*10 = 220pF
220 using the same coding means 22 and 10^0 = 22*1 = 22pF
unfortunately 220 also means 220pF using the alternative coding.
The 100 using the first coding = 10 and 10^0 = 10 * 1 = 10pF.
Looks like you have swapped C10 & C12 !
I'm lucky, one of my 4 DMM has a low capacitance scale that is 2000pF. It can read 10pF but not accurately, but it will show clearly the difference between 10pF and 100pF.
220 using the same coding means 22 and 10^0 = 22*1 = 22pF
unfortunately 220 also means 220pF using the alternative coding.
The 100 using the first coding = 10 and 10^0 = 10 * 1 = 10pF.
Looks like you have swapped C10 & C12 !
I'm lucky, one of my 4 DMM has a low capacitance scale that is 2000pF. It can read 10pF but not accurately, but it will show clearly the difference between 10pF and 100pF.
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Ok Andrew, let's desolder some C10 and C12, thanks!! 😉
P.s. I will go for a new multimeter too...
P.s. I will go for a new multimeter too...
The component marked 221 is C12 (220 pF), the one marked 220 is C10 (22 pF) and the one marked 100 is C34 (10 pF).
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Hi all,
problem here: I inverted the polarity of C14 cap (220uF/50v).
I actually can't find if I screwed the cap (I guess so). Anyway I already removed it.
I have on Hans some Elna Cerafine 220uF but rated only 25v.
Otherwise I hve some other Cerafine 470uF but with an ok rate of 63v, but ACTUALLY quite big for the board (and anyway 470uF instead of 220uF.
I have some questions, if someone can help, please:
1) Did I actually destroyed the cap?
2) Did I actually made some other damage?
3) In case I did not destroyed something else, Can I use the Cerafine 220uF/25v there..? Or the 470uF/63v...
Thanks in advance 😱
problem here: I inverted the polarity of C14 cap (220uF/50v).
I actually can't find if I screwed the cap (I guess so). Anyway I already removed it.
I have on Hans some Elna Cerafine 220uF but rated only 25v.
Otherwise I hve some other Cerafine 470uF but with an ok rate of 63v, but ACTUALLY quite big for the board (and anyway 470uF instead of 220uF.
I have some questions, if someone can help, please:
1) Did I actually destroyed the cap?
2) Did I actually made some other damage?
3) In case I did not destroyed something else, Can I use the Cerafine 220uF/25v there..? Or the 470uF/63v...
Thanks in advance 😱
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It's not critical - you can use any 220uF/35V or 50V cap. It's only for the speaker protection relay circuit.
Thanks Linuxguru, even the 25v I have..?
I actually don't know what tensione I have there with my toroidal, which I measured and it actually give s 25,6v "on empty" (I mean not connected).
I actually don't know what tensione I have there with my toroidal, which I measured and it actually give s 25,6v "on empty" (I mean not connected).
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And, BTW, where does this go..???😕
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That is 0.022uF = 22nF = 22000pF film capacitor. Probably metallised film and probably MKT, MKS, polyester, Mylar, etc. They are all the same.
It should be on the schematic and in the BoM.
It should be on the schematic and in the BoM.
Thanks, it look s it's in C21, signal bypass.
I probably got confused by the fact in the board Russ says "100nF" 😱
I probably got confused by the fact in the board Russ says "100nF" 😱
It could be FKP2 or MKP2 also - it's not easy to make a conclusive identification. Yellow epoxy-fill would suggest an FKP2 (stacked film/foil), while red epoxy-fill could include a large number of metalized film types. 63V rating points to FKP2 or MKP2.
MKP2 was also available in green case with red epoxy fill, while FKP2 was once available in green/green. Wima has changed the case colour, epoxy-fill colour and lettering style and colour several times. The leads have mostly stayed non-magnetic, but I could be mistaken about that.
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