Got these drivers from my friend. Plan to put in good use to build enclosure. Some of my friends recommended an Onken box. Is it good for the said type enclosure. What crossover point it will sound comfortable?
Magnets bit soiled and no markings to ID the drivers. Cast frame and cone look in very good condition and works perfectly. My source gave me this info, Electro-Voice EVM-15L.
Detailed specs:
http://www.electrovoice.com/downloadfile.php?i=971123
- Any recommendation of type and size of enclosure. Frequency range where it will work best based on specs link above.
Magnets bit soiled and no markings to ID the drivers. Cast frame and cone look in very good condition and works perfectly. My source gave me this info, Electro-Voice EVM-15L.
Detailed specs:
http://www.electrovoice.com/downloadfile.php?i=971123
- Any recommendation of type and size of enclosure. Frequency range where it will work best based on specs link above.
You actually have 15B cones, the 15L are ribbed.
The EVM 15B or 15L both work in a wide variety of boxes, most typically bass reflex, but both sound great in straight horns 80 Hz and up. EV has plans for their "TL606" bass reflex box available on line.
The 15L response is quite extended, the "L" stands for "Lead" as in "lead guitar", the 15B is the "Bass" version. The lightweight 15L curvalinier cone has a lot of breakup above 1600 Hz, for critical listening I would not cross it above 1200 Hz, and around 800 Hz would put the -6 dB point at about 45 degrees off axis. As you can see in the charts, the directivity index goes from under 10 <1000 Hz to around 30 at 2kHz. The "B" has less extended upper response, and is cleaner sounding in general, and can take more bass with less cone flex than the 15L.
With the age of the drivers the surround glue may be dried out, you may want to re-coat avoid cracks developing.
Art
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Thanks Art for the great info appreciate it very much. The plain cone type I noticed also when I search 15L. Another info I got from forum, it's best used in midbass with horn enclosure and not suitable for lower bass due to its high Fs or may be it was ID as 15L. Will check the correct info sheet for 15B model.
Yes, it will be cleaned and do some retouching on the surrounds. It's the original condition when pulled out from the box.
Mon
Yes, it will be cleaned and do some retouching on the surrounds. It's the original condition when pulled out from the box.
Mon
Great info! and if I may ask, which is the correct glue-goo for re-coating such surrounds and any possible source for this?
Thank you!
Mon,
Both the 15L and the 15B have the same Fs, 43 Hz, plenty low for midbass horns, but the stiffer 15B works better for horn loading. That said, Bruce Edgar and a number of other "hornies" love the 15L.
Art
I don't remember any specific brand names, but the goo is a clear latex, applied with a little paint brush. Any recone supply shop (like Orange County Speaker repair) should have it, there are probably recone shops in Greece that would trade you a little bottle of the stuff for bottle of wine or a six pack of beer :^).
So either 15L or 15B not best for lower bass configuration. May be this weekend, will try to test it. Building horn is a big work and huge for my smallish room. 🙁
Bruce started out with 15Ls, but now prefers the 15B for midbass horns. Having heard both versions in the same midbass horn, I agree the 15B is better for that particular application. I have no experience with them in bass reflex cabinets, though, if that is where you want to use it. It should not cost too much to have them reconed. The 15B and 15L share the same frame and magnet structure. You can recone them to either version you want.
Thanks for the feedback and suggestion but reconing is not in my plan, too costly to source original replacement kit. Might find another pair for lower bass application and put it at midbass configuration where it sounds best.
This series was originally the Altec ER series, which used the white, water based Air Products' Airflex 510 dope [AKA 'monkey snot'], but AFAIK it's been superseded with an EPA mandated version that's ~clear.
WRT Onken loading, as already noted yours have 'B' cones, though neither versions can meet the narrow minded vent area [S vent] requirement, but at the ~35 cm vent length limit [L' vent], it's still large enough to deliver an Onken's 'tone' [lower mids harmonic distortion].
GM
Thanks for the dimension. Is it W x H x D ?
Seems, there's a chance for onken box. With 35 cm L - vent, how it will configured inside the box? Is the rear corner straight or chamfered?
Thanks... 😛 another question, the width (500) does it inside dimension including side port opening? Thanks again.
Look at EV's 15-3 3way sound reinforcement speakers from the 70's. Expensive nice stuff. Crossover schematics are on line....
They were a good sounding, quite efficient speaker for a speaker designed in the 1970s, they still are good speakers, but with only 3.3mm Xmax compared to 15mm (or more) available with current bass drivers, they are no longer in the hunt, much less "best".
Drivers that can put out 12 (or more) dB low frequency than the EVM are now readily available, and cost far less per dB than the decades old designs EV is still selling. Not to knock EV, but their current "best" bass drivers, the EVX series is simply pathetic when compared to drivers made by B&C, 18 Sound, Faital Pro, JBL, etc.
The EVX was the industries "leader of the pack" when I endorsed it in a magazine ad back in 1990 (I was a big user and seller of EV back then) but it seems they have since lost all the good designers they had in that era, and have not found anyone capable of more than cosmetic changes. It's like EV is using a Ford Model T engine in a 2015 Mustang, makes me sad.
Notice that Dave Gunness, one of the best designers EV (and EAW) ever had, now uses B&C woofers in all (as far as I know) of his Fulcrum Acoustics subs.
Art
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15L and 15B are good in Karlson enclosures whether the original 1951 K15 or the smaller spinoffs from the X15 by Acoustic Control. KK Audio, Transylvania, etc.
for home hi-fi, the older SP15 have a nicer vocal presentation and lower fs.
a little Karlson type is a good alternative to a midbass horn - if not using flea power SE tube amps
15L indeed sounds good with guitar through the cabinet below - I was surprixed
use a slotted pipe tweeter for excellent highs - this is the commercial Transylvania Power Co. "The Tube"
sitting on top of a KK-Audio K-coupler with 15B - very "hifi"
for home hi-fi, the older SP15 have a nicer vocal presentation and lower fs.
a little Karlson type is a good alternative to a midbass horn - if not using flea power SE tube amps
15L indeed sounds good with guitar through the cabinet below - I was surprixed
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
use a slotted pipe tweeter for excellent highs - this is the commercial Transylvania Power Co. "The Tube"
sitting on top of a KK-Audio K-coupler with 15B - very "hifi"
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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