STK3062IV substitute

[BunyipElectronics]

Hi,

Does anyone have a datasheet or any info or chx on the STK-3062IV?

I have a blown one in a Marantz PM55 and can only find info (and also stock) on STK3062III, STK3062A and STK3062.

Has anyone used a STK-3062III in place of it because I think thats what I'm going to do and see what happens.

 

[Mooly]

Datasheets here,
STK3062 Datasheet catalog

 

[BunyipElectronics]

Thanks but these don't have any info on the Mach 4 (IV) version.

 

[djk]

I always used the STK3082 to replace the 3062

 

[BunyipElectronics]

Thanks, djk, thats good enough advice for me!

 

[matski]

Hi there,

I have a PM55 with the left channel down and I too suspect the STK package. Did the 3082 do the job for you?

Regards

Mat

 

[BunyipElectronics]

Hi Mat,
Your stretching my memory a little but just checked my records and it indeed worked! It has not come back in for repairs so I would say thats a good indication that the user was happy.
Cheers
Ben

 

[djk]

I have replaced more 3062 with 3082 than I can remember, Yamaha and Sony used them (back in the day).

 

[Rasso01]

Agree.

Just repaired my old Marantz PM 50. Sustitued the stk3062IV with a stk3082III. Voila. Good as new.

 

[Jazzizit]

Marantz PM50 (Which STK?)

Hi Guys
I'm not sure if this thread is still valid but I'll post anyway..I bought a second hand Marantz PM50 with a crackle in the left channel which I traced back to the STK3062-lV, anyway to cut a long story short I replaced it with a STK3062-lll since the series lV seem to be hard to get hold of...This fixed the problem but the unit has a mains hum in both channels, heard at low volume and I suspect the ic has developed a problem..Data sheets for the version lV seem impossible to find, but from what I gather the STK3062-lll isn't suitable for the supply voltage of the PM50...I'm quite happy to fit a STK3082-lll but are there any mods required, i.e, external caps and resistors?
Thanks in advance
Richard in Oz

 

[dragonweed]

Used to have lots of problems with those IC-s (3062-3082 any suffix). In most amps they run VERY hot, I mean you can barely touch them, no wonder sooner or later they develop contact problems (they are hybrid IC-s assembled on a ceramic PCB). Any time I've replaced them, I glued a heatsink on the back (alu plate) of them -usually small multi-finned ones cannibalized from old PC-s- that keeps them running at reasonable temperatures, letting them live longer.

 

[Jazzizit]

Suitable replacement

Used to have lots of problems with those IC-s (3062-3082 any suffix). In most amps they run VERY hot, I mean you can barely touch them, no wonder sooner or later they develop contact problems (they are hybrid IC-s assembled on a ceramic PCB). Any time I've replaced them, I glued a heatsink on the back (alu plate) of them -usually small multi-finned ones cannibalized from old PC-s- that keeps them running at reasonable temperatures, letting them live longer.

Thanks dragonweed, I'll heed your advice once I lay my hands on a suitable replacement.

 

[Jazzizit]

I was wrong on the use of a STK3062-lll as a substitute for a ver.lV..It would seem that the cause of my hum was due to me not having fitted the 4 x screws grounding the speaker terminal outlets to the case...After setting the idle current for each channel, all sounds fine apart from an occasional thunk on switch on...Speaker 1 + 2 switches on the front work ok to power the speaker relays, but I feel sure that on initial power up, that there should be a small delay before getting audio...I changed the TA7317P at the same time as changing the STK3062, but I threw the original away, so I can't try it..All resistors and capacitors check out ok..Despite being ultra careful using my rubber ball solder sucker, the print still managed to lift.

 

[Jazzizit]

Faulty TA7317P

I was wrong on the use of a STK3062-lll as a substitute for a ver.lV..It would seem that the cause of my hum was due to me not having fitted the 4 x screws grounding the speaker terminal outlets to the case...After setting the idle current for each channel, all sounds fine apart from an occasional thunk on switch on...Speaker 1 + 2 switches on the front work ok to power the speaker relays, but I feel sure that on initial power up, that there should be a small delay before getting audio...I changed the TA7317P at the same time as changing the STK3062, but I threw the original away, so I can't try it..All resistors and capacitors check out ok..Despite being ultra careful using my rubber ball solder sucker, the print still managed to lift.

I finally fixed it!..I located the original TA7317P and all is now fixed and voltages are all correct. It would seem that the new replacement TA7317P (I only replaced it as a precaution) was working in reverse with a delayed switch off and instantaneous switch on, strange as it sounds (Hence the big thunk on switch on). Now time to get out the band-aid's for a couple of cuts from the sharp edges of these chassis. 😡
I feel like the Marantz and I are now blood brothers. 🙂