Yeah, I have a Royal N, Meister Silver GM II, and an A95 Anniversary edition, so perhaps you can understand my reticence.. lol
that's a few $$$ in cartridges. I always lusted after an MC3000, but they stopped making them before I could afford one. Never experienced an SPU though.
I've been firmly in the SPU camp for just a few years, and stupidly threw a freebie GT/E in the dustbin about 20yrs ago not realizing what it was. (How could an antique be any good? LOL) I started with a GM E II after a loaner GT/E sold me.. Sort of an eye opener tbh.. Two of the three were incredible bargains - new and unwanted by the world at large so I grabbed them.. The A95 is breathtakingly expensive, and is probably my cartridge swansong..
Hi,
Been there, and done that, many moons ago, and
recall tales of tips parting company with cantilevers.
FWIW a safe bet is the strike area of a box of safety matches.
rgds, sreten.
Been there, and done that, many moons ago, and
recall tales of tips parting company with cantilevers.
FWIW a safe bet is the strike area of a box of safety matches.
rgds, sreten.
I've got a third table, a Garrard 401 that I hope to get working fairly soon. (UK version which will I will run on one of my sources at 240V/50Hz) I've even got a spot for it, and temporarily will use my spare SME 3009 Series II arm on it. Just an excuse to design and build yet another phono stage.. LOL
would love a 401, but have inherited a kenwood KD550 (direct drive) which will be rig 2 for now. long term goal is a 3009 on that with something suitable on the end.
Back on topic. with the match striker you drag it over the needle. Is there any view on dragging with the magic erazer?
Back on topic. with the match striker you drag it over the needle. Is there any view on dragging with the magic erazer?
I would never drag anything across a stylus, lowering onto the magic eraser is sufficient. I worry even with a somewhat stiff stylus brush - always from back to front.
The quarter just as adds bit of weight to it and makes it easier to position etc.
A quarter is a convenient size and weight.
Of course, anything similar can be used. 🙂
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I have a clearance problem on my platter, so will need something taller. Need to furtle in my man boxes tonight to see whats available.
I still believe that a fiber glass pencil is a better solution.
fiber glass pencil & corroded contact terminals
fiber glass pencil & corroded contact terminals
well magic eraser wont clean old veroboard (i tried) but not sure how you get to your stylus with a fibre glass pencil
The true question is how many are aware that they need to wash the protective glue over the fiber glass brush replacements, before using them.
been using them for 25 years and never had that issue.
still doesn't explain how you safely clean a stylus with them
still doesn't explain how you safely clean a stylus with them
If not mentioned I have used the old Linn 3M green glass paper. It is very fine grained and seems OK, it has a plastic back and is in A4 sized sheets or similar. Linn version was 20 x 75 mm approximately . As Linn said the glass will not harm diamond but it will remove backed on oil that has gone black. Often mistaken for vinyl. From the green the colour alone I worked out what it was in the 3 M range, Lime green or slightly darker. I think RS stocked it? Glass is possibly something like aluminium oxide ? I don't remember. If so that is harder I guess ?
well you don't want to use anything that is harder than the glue holding the diamond in place. and you don't want to use anything harder than the cantilever's tube. if you use a loupe or other high magnification and don't actually touch anything other than the diamond's tip, then it doesn't matter what you use.
keep in mind that less expensive cartridges do not have an all diamond tip, they have diamonds mounted on a metal carrier. (how the heck do they make them??)
keep in mind that less expensive cartridges do not have an all diamond tip, they have diamonds mounted on a metal carrier. (how the heck do they make them??)
The Linn paper was quite good on that. Gentle almost.
The tip as you say only needs to be 7%. Some were bonded to sapphire. The reason to use all diamond is to keep tip mass low. I suspect the Rega Carbon will be less than 100%. Acos perfected bonding. If I am right it had to be done in a near perfect vacuum as it was at the combustion temperature. Acos lead to Expert stylus in Ashted who are still in business, the A&R P77 was one of their diamonds. 21 % diamond was considered very good in the past. Nude diamonds came in when the CD4 process required very low tip mass. Now the norm. I think I am right in saying Shure were 21%. Nuway who sold generic copies were 50%. They were banned and ended up selling genuine Shure at discount in their own packaging. For once the clone was an upgrade. I notice generic Shure are back these days.
The tip as you say only needs to be 7%. Some were bonded to sapphire. The reason to use all diamond is to keep tip mass low. I suspect the Rega Carbon will be less than 100%. Acos perfected bonding. If I am right it had to be done in a near perfect vacuum as it was at the combustion temperature. Acos lead to Expert stylus in Ashted who are still in business, the A&R P77 was one of their diamonds. 21 % diamond was considered very good in the past. Nude diamonds came in when the CD4 process required very low tip mass. Now the norm. I think I am right in saying Shure were 21%. Nuway who sold generic copies were 50%. They were banned and ended up selling genuine Shure at discount in their own packaging. For once the clone was an upgrade. I notice generic Shure are back these days.
I usually dip onto a sticky hand, then Magic Eraser then sticky hand again.
Floats my boat.
Floats my boat.
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