are there plans out there for a F.A.S.T. setup for AN Super 6.5s? preferably similar in form and simplicity to the Tysen or Stella since i have a small listening space. also considering integrating a simple sealed box with woofT enclosures since i have 4 4inch woofers on hand. would that work? any suggestions would be much appreciated.
What Audio Nirvana?
There's a variety of Audio Nirvana Super 6.5 (5 different models.)
'Super 6.5 Alnico' - 88dB
'Super 6.5 Neodymium'
'Classic 6.5'
'Super 6.5 Cast Frame' - 94dB
'Super 6.5 Steel Frame'
Why don't you give a look at the issue with woofer/sub (similar FR) here and detail your project better.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/261021-jbl-apollo-like.html#post4037781
There's a variety of Audio Nirvana Super 6.5 (5 different models.)
'Super 6.5 Alnico' - 88dB
'Super 6.5 Neodymium'
'Classic 6.5'
'Super 6.5 Cast Frame' - 94dB
'Super 6.5 Steel Frame'
Why don't you give a look at the issue with woofer/sub (similar FR) here and detail your project better.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/261021-jbl-apollo-like.html#post4037781
Unlikely you'll find an already done FAST with the AN, but like any FAST there is a general procedure.
Things you need to consider:
Speaker or line level XO? (LL leaves many more options and flexibility)
How low will the AN go in a sealed or midTL box?
Then you find some (avaialble) midbass driver(s) that go low enuff (high eniff is usually not an issue), in an appropriate size box.
If passive XO,the sensitivity of the woofers should be 3-6 dB more than the AN.
Then you start doing an XO.
dave
Things you need to consider:
Speaker or line level XO? (LL leaves many more options and flexibility)
How low will the AN go in a sealed or midTL box?
Then you find some (avaialble) midbass driver(s) that go low enuff (high eniff is usually not an issue), in an appropriate size box.
If passive XO,the sensitivity of the woofers should be 3-6 dB more than the AN.
Then you start doing an XO.
dave
i have the Super 6.5 Steel Frame (cheapest among the lot). thanks for the link! i'll read through it and (hopefully) get a deeper understanding.
I used qnty 6 x 6.5 inch woofers from PE (clearance items at $5 ea) in a slot loaded open baffle and really liked the sound. Same Sd as a 15 in woofer. More info here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/249984-cheap-fast-ob-literally.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/249984-cheap-fast-ob-literally.html
thanks dave! didn't realize that the XO should be the starting point. really shows how new i am to all this. 😀
Crossover
i was thinking of using a passive speaker level crossover since i only have one amp. the wife wouldn't be too happy if i get another one. i am of course assuming that a line level crossover would require me to get another amp. i'd also like to keep my setup as simple as possible... one source, one amp, one set of speakers.
Enclosure
online speaker box calculator suggests the AN would be more suited for a ported enclosure so i guess i'm going with that instead of a sealed/midTL. is there any way to compute how low the AN will go given a particular enclosure?
the FR enclosure will be integrated with a side firing woofer enclosure to limit the footprint. my 4" woofers are currently installed in my diatone DS-S3 tower speakers, which are a pain to disassemble. thanks for the tip on woofer sensitivity.
thanks for showing me this! was actually considering doing an OB but my space is very limited. room configuration also presents a host of challenges in terms of speaker placement (my rig is set up diagonally at a corner with a loft opening right behind me and a highly irregular ceiling above... basically an audiophile's worst nightmare 🙁 )
Corner placement is not necessarily a bad thing. You get a lot less reflections off of the side walls. Open to the rear also means less reflections. OB, of course poses problems because the speakers need to be away from the front wall for the dipole effects to work.
Bob
Bob
interesting! i always thought corners were the enemy, though never really found out why. perhaps because, as in my case, the audio only sounds "right" when you're right in front of the speakers (properly toed-in, of course).
Let's make sure we are talking the same thing. By corner placement, I mean the speakers are placed equidistant from the corner on the adjacent walls and that you are facing the corner from your chair. Having one speaker jammed into a corner and the other somewhere on the same wall is another thing and very bad.
Bob
Bob
🙂 yup,we're talking about the same thing (chair facing corner, speakers equidistant on adjacent walls).
makes me wonder though.. will my current configuration work with side firing woofers? haven't really thought about that 'till now. should i consider front/down firing woofers instead?
I always find reading interesting, besides not reading none (@my age).
Room Acoustics
In (a) corner(s) I wouldn't consider side firing (meaning back or wall firing (?) and modeling as such) I don't know if it works (easily). It works when/if modeling it's ok (?) room/speakers (software). And not for a beginner I'm sure, unless you have someone doing it for you (not me); SOFTWARE - Room Response Simulation.
In a FAST you aren't trying to goas low asyou can. With a passive XO the big goal would be to flatten the resonance peak.
Yes. The online enclosure calulator should if it is decent.
dave
Side firing woofers should be fine. Since they will be a mirrored pair, they will be pointed 15-20*(?) away from the wall, and should be crossed low enough to be omnidirectional. You may get different humps and valleys that if they are forward firing, but rooms are rooms.
Bob
Bob
Thanks again Dave! Looks like I have a lot of studying to do before taking this further.
Aside from considering a FAST, I've also been trying to search for proven and tested cab designs (other than BR) for these drivers but to no avail. It seems that either no one has taken an interest in these or have simply chosen to use the supplied plans. I find that odd considering the volume of designs available to other FR drivers.
Oh well, I guess it's back to the old drawing board for now.
Yes, that's the plan (ie. mirrored pair, 15-20 deg away from wall), but will also consider forward firing if i have room for it.
UPDATE
i've spent the past couple of days researching on how to actually go about designing a speaker system and realized that as of the moment, i lack the basic fundamentals to go about it the right way. i've got a couple of books to go through before i can even begin to take this on. in the meantime, i've decided to make simple, sealed enclosures for the ANs and add an active sub to the mix. seems to be the most logical approach given my limited knowledge and experience (for now).
my question: what type of numbers should i aim for when designing the sealed enclosures (total Q, freq at peak dB, Peak dB, cutoff freq)? using the online calculator from mh-audio.nl and my active sub is a JBL sub230. will use speaker level inputs and outputs since my preamp does not have a sub output.
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i've spent the past couple of days researching on how to actually go about designing a speaker system and realized that as of the moment, i lack the basic fundamentals to go about it the right way. i've got a couple of books to go through before i can even begin to take this on. in the meantime, i've decided to make simple, sealed enclosures for the ANs and add an active sub to the mix. seems to be the most logical approach given my limited knowledge and experience (for now).
my question: what type of numbers should i aim for when designing the sealed enclosures (total Q, freq at peak dB, Peak dB, cutoff freq)? using the online calculator from mh-audio.nl and my active sub is a JBL sub230. will use speaker level inputs and outputs since my preamp does not have a sub output.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
to add, the active sub has both a volume knob and a frequency knob. frequency range is from 50Hz to 150Hz
The problem, you might not get there in LF extension to mate with woofer (from a sealed).
So I would make it a reflex (improvement to ~100/150Hz)
VB = 5.5 L, FB = 68.4 Hz (make appropriate extra space for port and driver internal volume)
Port 5.7x25.4 (DxL)
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