*Title changed at OP's request.
Hello all,
I'm wanting to build a portable boombox and was thinking about incorporating a BACK loaded horn design into it. As I understand it, the horn will provide a boost in db as well as some base extension?
(I've done some digging for a thread on this topic but didn't find any, I apologize if this has already been covered).
I plan on using the dayton nd91's
Dayton Audio ND91-8 3-1/2" Aluminum Cone Full-Range Driver 8 Ohm
I've never built a horn loaded speaker before so this will be a step up in my education level of diy speakers.
I'm providing some images that inspired my creative process / thought for this project:
tangband D4-1
Paul C's SPRITE:
ecophile audio full range speaker:
Any input would be greatly appreciated!
~ also, should I consider adding a tweeter and xo? I read that aluminum cones aren't the greatest reproducers of a full range... Though Paul Carmody's Sprite seems to achieve a solid response curve...
Hello all,
I'm wanting to build a portable boombox and was thinking about incorporating a BACK loaded horn design into it. As I understand it, the horn will provide a boost in db as well as some base extension?
(I've done some digging for a thread on this topic but didn't find any, I apologize if this has already been covered).
I plan on using the dayton nd91's
Dayton Audio ND91-8 3-1/2" Aluminum Cone Full-Range Driver 8 Ohm
I've never built a horn loaded speaker before so this will be a step up in my education level of diy speakers.
I'm providing some images that inspired my creative process / thought for this project:
tangband D4-1
Paul C's SPRITE:
ecophile audio full range speaker:
Any input would be greatly appreciated!
~ also, should I consider adding a tweeter and xo? I read that aluminum cones aren't the greatest reproducers of a full range... Though Paul Carmody's Sprite seems to achieve a solid response curve...
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Back loaded horns are sort of wasteful in a way WRT to the amount of volume they use compared to other enclosures. A portable boombox must be limited in volume by necessity. So, in my view you're better off with sealed or BR enclosures.
I think you could take those two 'full ranges' and cross them over at about 2-300hz to a 3rd driver for a subwoofer/woofer module -- or for that matter two extra bass drivers.
I think you could take those two 'full ranges' and cross them over at about 2-300hz to a 3rd driver for a subwoofer/woofer module -- or for that matter two extra bass drivers.
hmm... I don't mind a slightly larger enclosure... I don't have access to hornresp at the moment, but will adding extra woofer(s) for bass not extend the size of the enclosure comparable to a back loaded horn design for two 3" speakers?
The fs of the ND91 is 69.6, if that helps.
Part of my interest in this project is the cost, since the current plans only call for having two drivers (and possibly two tweeters *if* necessary); considering I will be buying other components such as an amplifier, ipod dock, fm tuner, battery and charger, etc.
Thank you for your reply, btw.
The fs of the ND91 is 69.6, if that helps.
Part of my interest in this project is the cost, since the current plans only call for having two drivers (and possibly two tweeters *if* necessary); considering I will be buying other components such as an amplifier, ipod dock, fm tuner, battery and charger, etc.
Thank you for your reply, btw.
We are not talking slightly larger, we are talking like 8x or even more larger. Most of these teeny BLH you see are not doing much of anything other than looking cool.
AFA the ND91, yeah, I already looked the specs. I think you should put them in a simple reflex enclosures. Go up in driver size if you want more bass without buying more drivers.
AFA the ND91, yeah, I already looked the specs. I think you should put them in a simple reflex enclosures. Go up in driver size if you want more bass without buying more drivers.
Shoot. I was really hoping I could utilize this project as an opportunity to make my first horn (or even a TL).
Does this mean that this kickstarter project (small 1/4 wave boombox) is not really capable of what it states at the size it is:
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1468373648/quarterwave-bluetooth-transmission-line-speakers-0
Does this mean that this kickstarter project (small 1/4 wave boombox) is not really capable of what it states at the size it is:
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1468373648/quarterwave-bluetooth-transmission-line-speakers-0
A TL could work. It would be a little bigger than a BR, and you could possibly lose some power handling.
A horn is a different thing than a BLH, though in reality most BLH are really TL/horn hybrids
A horn is a different thing than a BLH, though in reality most BLH are really TL/horn hybrids
Hi,
Except they don't state anything about real capabilties.
Which is in all respects very poor for the form format.
rgds, sreten.
for a diversion from direct-radiator, you might yoke two mini-"Karlsonators" together with dowel rods, etc. - ask XRK971 how that Dayton would sim.
Obviously I think that would be awesome 😉, but that Dayton might not be the best driver. It's optimized for a tiny (~1 liter) enclosure, and sacrifices efficiency to achieve this. A similar but more efficient driver would be a better choice.
The reality shock is that 100Hz (which isn´t exactly deep bass, by the way), already has over 3 meter/10 feet wavelength.
Portable enclosures become not_that_portable above 1M/3Ft long, forget a 3 M long one, so you have impossible to meet size constraints there.
That´s why the "infinite" (closed) baffle and its muscular cousin, the tuned/bass reflex enclosures were invented.
Namely, to provide good bass in smaller than wavelength enclosures.
Portable enclosures become not_that_portable above 1M/3Ft long, forget a 3 M long one, so you have impossible to meet size constraints there.
That´s why the "infinite" (closed) baffle and its muscular cousin, the tuned/bass reflex enclosures were invented.
Namely, to provide good bass in smaller than wavelength enclosures.
Fortunately we only have to have a pipe that is 1/4 of the wavelength or 0.86m for 100Hz. That's where tapered or constricted TL's provide a longer than physical distance quarter wave resonance. 55hz MLTL is only about 32in long. You can fold this 3x and it's about 10in long x 3 channels wide. Much more compact.
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Thank you all for your input. I'm a budget conscious med student getting into this with very limited circuitry understanding/experience atm. so I appreciate your patience.
Would using this goldwood 6 1/2" speaker (with higher sensitivity) be a better candidate (crossed over, of course) for a MLTL?
https://www.parts-express.com/goldwood-gw-6024-6-1-2-butyl-surround-woofer-4-ohm--290-351
I'm struggling to understand the advantages of a QWTL over a BR/ported enclosure-? Each thread I read seems to devolve into people arguing over semantics. 😕
It would be fun to build a t-line (and on point with educating myself through the construction of a horn), but if I'm going to end up sacrificing quality (or the size increase makes the cabinet no longer "portable") I guess I'd consider a bass reflex cabinet. There's going to be a lot of firsts for me in this project (including building my first amp, and using arduino + an lcd screen, among other things 😱), so I would like the final product/sound to match the amount of time I put into the construction and build.
Would using this goldwood 6 1/2" speaker (with higher sensitivity) be a better candidate (crossed over, of course) for a MLTL?
https://www.parts-express.com/goldwood-gw-6024-6-1-2-butyl-surround-woofer-4-ohm--290-351
I'm struggling to understand the advantages of a QWTL over a BR/ported enclosure-? Each thread I read seems to devolve into people arguing over semantics. 😕
It would be fun to build a t-line (and on point with educating myself through the construction of a horn), but if I'm going to end up sacrificing quality (or the size increase makes the cabinet no longer "portable") I guess I'd consider a bass reflex cabinet. There's going to be a lot of firsts for me in this project (including building my first amp, and using arduino + an lcd screen, among other things 😱), so I would like the final product/sound to match the amount of time I put into the construction and build.
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