Cogitech,
Don't give up yet! Go to Coilcraft's website and order some samples. Although I am not sure why you don't have any sound at all. It will make music even without the inductors. Usually when there is no sound you either have a loose wire, bad solder joint, or one of the bootstrap caps failed or is loose. One bad bootstrap cap will keep whole chip in shutdown. The bootstrap caps face some serious switching transients and double the voltage swing so need to be rated higher. Trust us that this can sound superior to Tripath when properly implemented. It does concern me that you say your heatsink was too hot too touch - this could mean it is fried, although a properly working 3116 has so much auto protect features it is unlikely to let itself be run to death. It can withstand direct shorting of outputs, it senses temps >150C and shuts down, etc. Only thing that can kill are ESD and reverse polarity on Vcc.
Keep the faith!
Cheers,
X
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Managed to change the bootstrap caps - any suggestion how to de-solder without damaging the board? - found that was a real PITA -anyway: the amp strikes me as sounding more open than before. I expected some negative effect on the tone of the amp (ceramic caps = harsh sound), but I have not noticed anything along those lines yet. Seem to be a worthwhile mod.
Actually I tried reverse polarity Vcc once...electrolytics became larger but chip didn't fail 😀
YJblue inductors do not get hot idle with 6 macaudio multiway caraudiospeakers in a ceiling connected to both speakerterminals. I am away from home and replaced a defect Onkyo amplifier with YJblue here and left it powered during the night. So it is load dependent, need to replace those inductors to use it with more normal speakers.
YJblue inductors do not get hot idle with 6 macaudio multiway caraudiospeakers in a ceiling connected to both speakerterminals. I am away from home and replaced a defect Onkyo amplifier with YJblue here and left it powered during the night. So it is load dependent, need to replace those inductors to use it with more normal speakers.
Master-slave, slave without master. Gainsettingresistors not only set gain, slave without master behaves differently, 109khz switching should not be possible but it was measured. One would think slavechip would not function at all without masterclock, but unfortunately it does. Apparently it can sound okísh without masterclock but becomes hot (chipheatsink).
After some more tinkering, I've concluded my board is now dead. I'll harvest some parts off it (the ones I put on) and then bin it.
I managed to make a short in the bootstrap caps making a short between between the - outputs. Then it made slow/low alternating pops in the speakers when it tried to switch itself back on.. Removed the short and the amp worked as before🙂 Even with doing all possible mods on my 2 boards I have not managed to kill one yet!
Did you notice when your YJblue functioned it was actually more powerfull then STA508 on same PSU? I have Hifimediy amp with this 508 chip and STA510A.
No, I didn't notice this at all. My STA508 has lots and lots of grunt. In fact, the board I have is dual-mono STA508 chips (Sure model AA-AB32186). Tons of power and extremely low cross talk.
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You should order a couple of the Ybdz's for $13 ea. Wait a month, when they show up you will have a couple of nice amps ready to go stock. I have been using mine pure stock for past 5 months and very happy with them as main amps on my reference Nautaloss monitor system with miniDSP.
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-1pc-TPA3116-Class-D-digital-amplifier-50W-50-W-with-Silent-Sleep-Design/1586764360.html
Btw, I am a fan of Sure amps too. They make a very nice $10 TPA3110D2 amp that I love. Awesome sound quality.
http://www.parts-express.com/2x8w-at-4-ohm-tpa3110-class-d-audio-amplifier-board-only--320-329
Works great at 19volts and will drive about 15 watts clean.
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Yes I know they are PBTL, in BTL 508 can't drive a 4 ohm load, power collapses. But YJblue was not functioning properly if PBTL 508 were more powerfull on same 24V PSU, at that time there already was something wrong with YJblue.
I used Bourns 2300HT-220-V-RC on my first YJBlue inductor swap. I believe these are the same size as the 2305 you mention. They are huge and in my opinion, harder to install than the big shielded Coilcraft inductors (which I used on my second build).
To be fair, the first inductor swap I did was my first experience ever with surface-mount components. So for the second job I had the benefit of experience on my side. If it was my 1000th time doing work like that, I might have a different opinion.
But, if you're willing to re-locate some components to the bottom of the board (the DC input terminal and the four filter caps), the Coilcraft's are actually pretty easy to cleanly install. I did the "side" ones first, followed by the "middle" ones. In hindsight, it might have been a bit easier to do the middle ones first.
I just followed the tips others in this thread have mentioned:
- apply tin to both the solder pads and the inductors
- bend the tips of the middle inductors about 45 degrees
- use flux gel or paste
Hold the inductor in place, and use a chisel soldering tip. If you try to heat up the inductor on the non-solder-pad side, the coil itself absorbs all the heat, and it takes forever. But, because of the added tin, the inductor won't sit flush on the board, and you can sneak the soldering iron tip in the little gap. With the flux and tin (and a good hot iron), I found this got the soldering flowing quickly, and actually resulted in a good solid solder joint.
Here are a couple pics of my sloppy work on the my first YJBlue board with the 2300 series Bourns:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
If you go back a few pages, you'll see the pics I posted of my board with the Coilcraft inductors.
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I see that the Ybdz (which some have been referring to as "the weiner") is also available on ebay. link. Title: "TPA3116 Class D digital amplifier 50W +50 W with Silent Sleep Design", seller "onlinemall2012", price $14.80 USD w/free shipping.
I ordered my Ybdz from Ali-Express on June 20, and received it July 9. Less than three weeks.
I haven't had a chance to do anything other than look at it yet, but to my minimally-experienced eyes, it looks to be reasonably well built. Some of the mods people are doing doing on the YJBlue might even be appropriate and relatively easy as well. In particular: inductor swap, DC power caps.
Doe anyone know what speaker impedance the Ybdz is ideally suited to? The inductors say "220" on them, which I assume is 220 uH; on the YJBlue board this would correspond to an 8 ohm speaker load. But I don't see the filter cap values printed, so can't confirm. Anyone know?
Also, my Ybdz didn't come with a heatsink on the tpa3116 IC (which I believe is to be expected). I'm wondering if a heatsink is even necessary? Seems like I could get away without a heatsink for 12V (or lower) power, and 8 ohm (or higher) speakers (which happens to be my desktop rig). Although a heatsink wouldn't hurt... anyone else put a heatsink on the Ybdz board? If so, what did you use?
There was a square heatsink hidden in package. Caps outputfilter are 680nF and should be printed on them, mine are dark red, dc caps were black rubycons, 22uH = 220 marking
To clarify power TPA3116 stereo BTL single chip vs dual STA508
EVM STM Dual STA508 power 4ohm 10% THD 25V PSU ~70 watt
EVM TI TPA 3116 stereo BTL power 4 ohm 10% THD 25V PSU ~80 watt
(STM calls it single BTL not PBTL, it isn't exactly PBTL, but 1 chip a channel)
STA508 should not be more powerfull.
EVM STM Dual STA508 power 4ohm 10% THD 25V PSU ~70 watt
EVM TI TPA 3116 stereo BTL power 4 ohm 10% THD 25V PSU ~80 watt
(STM calls it single BTL not PBTL, it isn't exactly PBTL, but 1 chip a channel)
STA508 should not be more powerfull.
My Ybdz Wiener came with nice square heatsinks with double sided tape. I used a dab of hot melt glue on a couple corners of the heatsink to stabilize it as the tape is not very secure. RTV silicone caulking works better than tape if I were to do it again. I have Coilcraft inductors and Panasonic OSCON 330uF power caps on order. I will also add the pre LC snubber circuit where the bootstraps are. Like I said though, I think this amp sounds great in stock form - the problem may be that parts quality is variable with production lots. I think 22uH coils are good with 8 ohm speakers. 10uH coils are ideal for 4 ohms. Although I have used 22uH with 4 ohms and 10uH with 8 ohms and they all seem to work for me.
On Teldec recording mentioned earlier, Daniel Barenboim's pianolid is closed on 22uH filter 3116 to 4 ohm MA speaker, on 10uH filter 3116 to same speaker pianolid is open. That essentially is the difference between the 2 outputfilters.
6N3 preamp + YJ balck TPA3116
Still testing the whole thing but so far so SO GOOD!
Finally got rid of that annoying ON/OFF 'pops & cracks' on YJ blacky
Sound is really LOUD, clean, no noise, hiss, or anything unpleasant. Loudspeakers are totally dead on highest volume without the source - music!!!
Tubes give their warm touch to the whole picture, and all in all - I am very pleased with this now. I asked few questions earlier regarding issues with 3116, since there were no feedback it appeared that answers came out of nowhere and all of the sudden. Must be GOD has helped then, and a lot of learning from others on this thread 🙂 So to all - a BIG THANKS!
Soon planning to fix ChengZhe board as well. It has inductors fixed through the holes, so should be easier than YJ, also there are few caps to replace,... and the story goes on .....
Still testing the whole thing but so far so SO GOOD!
Finally got rid of that annoying ON/OFF 'pops & cracks' on YJ blacky
Sound is really LOUD, clean, no noise, hiss, or anything unpleasant. Loudspeakers are totally dead on highest volume without the source - music!!!
Tubes give their warm touch to the whole picture, and all in all - I am very pleased with this now. I asked few questions earlier regarding issues with 3116, since there were no feedback it appeared that answers came out of nowhere and all of the sudden. Must be GOD has helped then, and a lot of learning from others on this thread 🙂 So to all - a BIG THANKS!
Soon planning to fix ChengZhe board as well. It has inductors fixed through the holes, so should be easier than YJ, also there are few caps to replace,... and the story goes on .....