I have listened to PA type compression drivers and MANY are terrible.
It's either the DJ/operator that has no clue, or the rig buyer that had no clue, or the compression driver is plain no good, or the wrong horn is fitted, or a combination of some of the preceding.
To get good performance, you need a good driver, the correct horn, the correct amplifier and a good and understanding operator.
Hi and i understand. Everything counts.
And actually i am thinking to take something out of the equation
To decrease the number of variables ... i am taking out the DJ for first 😀
But this is not the right place to discuss this ... it is more a discussion for the lounge ... more freedom of speech there
Thanks and regards, gino 🙂
If we take a compression driver with a 6degree included angle in the 1" throat exit and smoothly reduce the diameter to half (quarter of the throat area) then expand again smoothly into a horn, is there any advantage at the HF end of the response?
Or is it a waste of thinking time?
Or is it a waste of thinking time?
Hi .. just a hint to what i am heading to in the video
Montagna Loudspeakers - YouTube
as usuall the poor man clone ... 😱
The mid and high drivers used look incredibly similar to compression drivers used reversed ... just hyper quality domes
I am sure one 75 mm is enough from 500 up ... electrostatic transparency united with endless dynamic ability
Just think of a super ATC dome, if you know the part ... but much much better
Some experiments are obviously needed.
But very very due .... before saying definitely that the concept is not good.
Kind regards, gino
Montagna Loudspeakers - YouTube
as usuall the poor man clone ... 😱
The mid and high drivers used look incredibly similar to compression drivers used reversed ... just hyper quality domes
I am sure one 75 mm is enough from 500 up ... electrostatic transparency united with endless dynamic ability
Just think of a super ATC dome, if you know the part ... but much much better
Some experiments are obviously needed.
But very very due .... before saying definitely that the concept is not good.
Kind regards, gino
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A dome has parts of the emitter that are closer than other parts to the "throat".
If there is significant path length difference, then you will get destructive interference.
In the extreme you will get a null, = no output at some frequencies.
An inverted dome with a well designed and built lens will make the path length from all parts of the emitter at virtually the same distance from the throat. This gives constructive interference = all outputs (from different areas) add up.
If there is significant path length difference, then you will get destructive interference.
In the extreme you will get a null, = no output at some frequencies.
An inverted dome with a well designed and built lens will make the path length from all parts of the emitter at virtually the same distance from the throat. This gives constructive interference = all outputs (from different areas) add up.
A monstocity that makes more of a visual statement than an audio statement.
listen starts at 1min 31seconds of a 2min 15seconds presentation.
What about the bass boom on that simple track?
Hi ... from your words i feel a little negative opinion on the concept 😀
Let's keep the bass out of the discussion ... let's tallk about dome compression drivers (because if you remove the cup you see this )
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
to me looks like any other dome drivers.
I think Stan Ricker the mastering engineer owns a monitoring system built with JBL compression drivers used reversed ... but i need confirmation here.
I mean ... if the concept works fine for Mr Ricker could work spectacularly also for ginetto ...
Ok ... Pyle drivers are not in the same league that a 375 ...
But life is often a compromise
First a solution for the mid-high section
Then a solution for the bass ... a phased approach
It would be nice that Mr Ricker could join in the discussion
They are just hyper performance dome midranges/tweeters ... just that
Thanks and regards, gino
Hi and thank you for the information ... i knew it was something of special and i was clearly underestimating it.
I was buying a pair of speakers sporting them ... but i have a critical situation now
I am renting a small flat ... with steep stairs ...
So i had to give up
The speakers were also around 40 years old ... a little too much i think
So i thought that a reversed compression driver could be used instead
Sorry ... i have found something
It will not work !!!! ... the cup is integral part of the driver and loads the diaphragm
Now i am sure it will not work ... sorry for the deviation
I will use them as they are intended to be used
No more fancy ideas ... 😱
But i sincerely would like to understand how they got the datasheet freq response
Looking at it it looks a little poor of data ...
Do you think that it could be the response without a horn ?
I am very willing to accept a +/-5dB variation
Could i do without a horn ?
Thanks again and kind regards, gino
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Hi and i have to excuse myself ... it will just not work. I found evidence that the compression drivers must be used with the cover absolutely
And i guess also with a right horn ... maybe little but a horn is needed
I am very sorry for causing this confusion.
My fault. I am very ignorant i think i have said that before ... 😱😱😱😱😱
Thanks and kind regards, gino
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OT: Canada is very large and has many different climates. Where I live, it doesn't get cold like other parts. Very little snow. Today I wake up, it's cloudy and 20º.
I would like to visit Norway someday.
Yes i understand Canada is huge ... different latitudes
More or less the same T here ... windy. Too much wind actually.
Being an expat i am not an expert of the Country but i can recommend a July cruise in the North, Lofoten islands ... very beautiful islands
From Canada i have an old Bryston preamp ... very very solid
Extremely reliable Brand indeed.
I see just now your splendid collection of hifi ... congratulations !
And we have something in common ...
But i have to say that if i find something of better i cannot go back
That is a problem ... because there is always something better
and i start from low
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Hi speaking of horns for the Pyle PDB 752, what about this one ?
Eighteensound XT 1464 - Thomann UK
it does not seem too big ...
Just to play a little ... i see a cut-off freq of 800 Hz
Thanks and regards, gino
Eighteensound XT 1464 - Thomann UK
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
it does not seem too big ...
Just to play a little ... i see a cut-off freq of 800 Hz
Thanks and regards, gino
Yes, we have 6 time zones. 🙂
That photo is beautiful.
Yes, I am quite an addict, I never learned to control myself. 🙂
Hello and thanks again for the helpful advice
Actually i saw a dispersion graph i think ... but i did not understand much.
Anyway I am still waiting for an answer from the Pyle tech support ... i need to know how did they get the curve in the datasheet
It goes down almost flat to 500 Hz 😱
Just one question 😱 do you prefer active or passive crossovers ?
This is a very fundamental choice i understand
Thanks again and kindest regards, gino
those that go for active filtering of the treble driver often add a protection capacitor in the feed to the treble driver. This would be a passive crossover component.
It will give a single pole roll-off, but corrupted by the changing impedance of the treble driver.
It will give a single pole roll-off, but corrupted by the changing impedance of the treble driver.
Hi and i am not an expert but you have a very good point here.
Thanks for the advice.
First of all i have zero experience with this kind of drivers. I do not know if there is a common approach on filtering
Of course i would very much prefer passive, much less complex
Maybe a 12dB/octave passive filter it would work just fine
Will you go for a passive solution then ?
thanks and regards, gino
I have little experience with active speakers.
I dabbled with dcx2496 a few years back and did not like what I heard. Put it on the workshop shelf and try to forget about it.
Very recently I activated a pair of small, cheap, standmounts.
Used a treble cap for protection.
I have done a lot of bi-amping and like what I hear.
Many disagree that bi-amping can make ANY difference.
I hear small to big improvements on EVERY two way that I have tried.
I almost never use a single amplifier on a passive cross-overed speaker.
I even modify the crossover to allow bi-amping.
I dabbled with dcx2496 a few years back and did not like what I heard. Put it on the workshop shelf and try to forget about it.
Very recently I activated a pair of small, cheap, standmounts.
Used a treble cap for protection.
I have done a lot of bi-amping and like what I hear.
Many disagree that bi-amping can make ANY difference.
I hear small to big improvements on EVERY two way that I have tried.
I almost never use a single amplifier on a passive cross-overed speaker.
I even modify the crossover to allow bi-amping.
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