Testing for fakes

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To test s/b on MJ15xxx's: Use a 65V lab supply, set the limit to about 7 amps. Connect to collector. Put 2.7 ohms (50W) from emitter to ground. Heat sink it too - on a separate sink. Apply 14V (pulsed or continuous, depending on cooling) to base. Monitor voltage across Re. If it spikes above 13.5V, your device didn't survive. To cool it for continuous operation or long pulses, mount directly to a finned heat sink and place the fins in an ice bath. Not too many of us have LN2-cooled cold plates but we can find ice in the freezer. Tc won't get above 10 or 15C as long as there is ice in the water.

For 2N3055's use 5.6 ohms and drop Vcc to 55V. Good ones will survive this. (2.5A@40V).

I would test ALL of them if the writing on them is in any way different. Test a couple of good ones for power, then measure Cbe. Check all of them against this reading unless the markings are absolutely the same. Meaure Cbe on your open unit and you could use it for a golden standard - it does appear genuine.
 
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