I'm looking for some quality 10" subs in the ~$200 price range to consider for my next project. I am just looking for any clean, low distortion subwoofers that might meet my needs. As of yet I have not decided on whether or not I will build sealed or ported. (Or even a port that I could close off so I could use it either way)
Many subs that are designed for extremely small (ported) boxes just don't model well in any larger of a box and of course they need tons of power (sealed or ported) which would add a lot of expense. To make matters even worse, they wind up with ridiculously low port resonances if going that route because the ports in these tiny boxes need to be so long.
These subs will be integrated with a fairly high-end 3-way, so I don't want anything that is going to hinder the rest of the system
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One of my most likely candidates so far is the SDX10: Creative Sound - Product Details
Another one that models pretty nicely is Dayton Ultimax.
Dayton Audio UM10-22 10" Ultimax DVC Subwoofer 2 ohm Per Coil - Ultimax Series - Loudspeaker Drivers By Series - Loudspeaker Components
The TC sounds Epic 10:
Epic Driver | TC Sounds
SB Acoustics SB295WRNX-S75-6:
SB Acoustics :: 10'' SB29SWNRX-S75-6
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The SDX is great because the shipping is only $1 which is FAR less than importing anything from the US. Reviews on it all seem to be positive, it has XBL2 technology so I assume it should have relatively low distortion.
Some of the other Dayton drivers may work, but the Ultimax seems to fit my requirements a bit better. I don't know if this sub is on the same level as my other options.
TC sounds has a good reputation although I don't know if that extends to the Epic series. There was also some speculation to a decline in overall quality from them of late.
SB Acoustics products are very highly regarded on this forum however I don't know if that extends into the subwoofer department. This sub is not capable of a whole lot of output so a sealed box in this case is likely out of the question. Another downside is it has about a .75" bigger outer diameter than most other 10s which really does hinder my design unfortunately.
Do any of you have feedback to offer on any of these drivers or suggestion for more options that might be better than any of these choices?
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Many subs that are designed for extremely small (ported) boxes just don't model well in any larger of a box and of course they need tons of power (sealed or ported) which would add a lot of expense. To make matters even worse, they wind up with ridiculously low port resonances if going that route because the ports in these tiny boxes need to be so long.
These subs will be integrated with a fairly high-end 3-way, so I don't want anything that is going to hinder the rest of the system
--------------
One of my most likely candidates so far is the SDX10: Creative Sound - Product Details
Another one that models pretty nicely is Dayton Ultimax.
Dayton Audio UM10-22 10" Ultimax DVC Subwoofer 2 ohm Per Coil - Ultimax Series - Loudspeaker Drivers By Series - Loudspeaker Components
The TC sounds Epic 10:
Epic Driver | TC Sounds
SB Acoustics SB295WRNX-S75-6:
SB Acoustics :: 10'' SB29SWNRX-S75-6
--------------------------------
The SDX is great because the shipping is only $1 which is FAR less than importing anything from the US. Reviews on it all seem to be positive, it has XBL2 technology so I assume it should have relatively low distortion.
Some of the other Dayton drivers may work, but the Ultimax seems to fit my requirements a bit better. I don't know if this sub is on the same level as my other options.
TC sounds has a good reputation although I don't know if that extends to the Epic series. There was also some speculation to a decline in overall quality from them of late.
SB Acoustics products are very highly regarded on this forum however I don't know if that extends into the subwoofer department. This sub is not capable of a whole lot of output so a sealed box in this case is likely out of the question. Another downside is it has about a .75" bigger outer diameter than most other 10s which really does hinder my design unfortunately.
Do any of you have feedback to offer on any of these drivers or suggestion for more options that might be better than any of these choices?
.
I have a SDX10 with a pair of 10 inch passive radiators and a Bash 300 watt amp. Awesome sub for its size.
DA RSS265HF-4 10" Reference HF Subwoofer 4 Ohm
Perhaps one more to consider but not much different from the CSS.
Perhaps one more to consider but not much different from the CSS.
Check this one out at parts Express
Dayton Audio RSS265HF-4 10" Reference HF Subwoofer 4 Ohm | 295-460
Dayton Audio RSS265HF-4 10" Reference HF Subwoofer 4 Ohm | 295-460
Many subs that are designed for extremely small (ported) boxes just don't model well in any larger of a box and of course they need tons of power (sealed or ported) which would add a lot of expense. To make matters even worse, they wind up with ridiculously low port resonances if going that route because the ports in these tiny boxes need to be so long.
.....
FYI, Small subs that require ridiculously long ports often model well in transmission lines, t-TQWT,TH etc
I am very pleased with SCANSPEAK 26W/4558T00.
I made my Hide Away Sub with Peerless which was replaced by the SCANSPEAK.
Hide Away Sub
The sims for SCANSPEAK is enclosed.
The result is rather impressive. I use a Hypex 1.2 amp.
I made my Hide Away Sub with Peerless which was replaced by the SCANSPEAK.
Hide Away Sub
The sims for SCANSPEAK is enclosed.
The result is rather impressive. I use a Hypex 1.2 amp.
Attachments
I didn't realize that Scan Speak also had subwoofer drivers. They are a bit expensive, but I would pay the extra if I expected them to sound better. I modeled them and they fit in the range of box sizes that I have to work with. Thank you.
Are Scan-Speak drivers all European manufactured? I believe the SDX is made in China, although that doesn't mean it isn't good either.
I still have not heard much of anything negative about any of them though so I will probably just have to go with my gut (and my wallet!)
Are Scan-Speak drivers all European manufactured? I believe the SDX is made in China, although that doesn't mean it isn't good either.
I still have not heard much of anything negative about any of them though so I will probably just have to go with my gut (and my wallet!)
The scan speak subs, that look like the Peerless XLS/XXLS series are basically just that. Scan made XLS XXLS stuff. They are more expensive on the whole, but are currently made in Europe and have scans quality control.
From what I've read the Dayton RSS265HF series of drivers etc are very good for the money.
I've used Peerless' XLS 10" drivers for well over a decade and really like them. I've never felt the need to try and replace them with anything else.
From what I've read the Dayton RSS265HF series of drivers etc are very good for the money.
I've used Peerless' XLS 10" drivers for well over a decade and really like them. I've never felt the need to try and replace them with anything else.
For the amount of money, it is hard to beat the performance of the Dayton Ultimax subs. The UM10-22 is a little monster when given enough clean power.
5th Element - The Peerless XLS may share some design with the Scan Speak (?) but they don't model the same at all. The Peerless is less efficient and wants to be in a much smaller box (with the inherent issues that brings)
JLH - All of these mentioned should have plenty of output for what I am looking for since I will be using 4 of them! With my current amplifier the will only be getting 190 watts each though so that levels the playing field between most of these guys and that is another reason why I was staying away from the really inefficient ones.
With the Daytons, I have looked at the HF model too but it is pushing the upper limits of my box size. I still have not entirely crossed it off my list though.
Another possibility I am considering is just going with a pair of 12's instead of 4 10s but my amplifier would be happier with 8 ohms per channel (2 X 10's in series per channel) and the speakers would look way cooler with the 10's 🙂
This is somewhat along the lines of what I am planning: 😀
JLH - All of these mentioned should have plenty of output for what I am looking for since I will be using 4 of them! With my current amplifier the will only be getting 190 watts each though so that levels the playing field between most of these guys and that is another reason why I was staying away from the really inefficient ones.
With the Daytons, I have looked at the HF model too but it is pushing the upper limits of my box size. I still have not entirely crossed it off my list though.
Another possibility I am considering is just going with a pair of 12's instead of 4 10s but my amplifier would be happier with 8 ohms per channel (2 X 10's in series per channel) and the speakers would look way cooler with the 10's 🙂
This is somewhat along the lines of what I am planning: 😀
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I will have to agree with you....my amplifier would be happier with 8 ohms per channel (2 X 10's in series per channel) and the speakers would look way cooler with the 10's 🙂
I's that for Bi-amping with one amp for the 2 sub drivers and another for the tops FR frequency or total like in a 3/4-Way(?)...With my current amplifier the will only be getting 190 watts each though so that levels the playing field between most of these guys and that is another reason why I was staying away from the really inefficient ones.
Bi-amping yes.
The subs would be playing up to the natural rolloff freq of the woofers which will be in a sealed box rolling off around 65 hz. That is my initial intentions at least.
In all honesty, as I am getting older, I am finding less and less need for something this extreme, although I am finding myself more able to afford it. I am still debating whether putting a $1000 in subs is really worth it for me. I got spousal approval though so now I just have to convince myself.
The subs would be playing up to the natural rolloff freq of the woofers which will be in a sealed box rolling off around 65 hz. That is my initial intentions at least.
In all honesty, as I am getting older, I am finding less and less need for something this extreme, although I am finding myself more able to afford it. I am still debating whether putting a $1000 in subs is really worth it for me. I got spousal approval though so now I just have to convince myself.
The Seas 10" woofer does play down to mid 30's in a ported or TL box. If I don't add the subs I would be using a TL for the woofers as per the original design:
Jenzen-NEXT
Jenzen-NEXT
Nice. 🙂 (in TL or reflex form)The Seas 10" woofer does play down to mid 30's in a ported or TL box. If I don't add the subs I would be using a TL for the woofers as per the original design:
Jenzen-NEXT
WAF must be a bonus... 😀
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