Hi ,
I saw some advice on the internet about taking out the wadding to your speakers (well,Goodmans Magnum Ks to be exact) and replacing it with “steel plates”- that’s lining the cabinet with steel plates!
I am intrigued to know what the benefit of “steel plates” would bring to a speaker like the Goodmans because I own a pair, and would consider dabbling if it were to improve the sound.
Any ideas to what the science is behind this recommendation?
Thanks
Dean
I saw some advice on the internet about taking out the wadding to your speakers (well,Goodmans Magnum Ks to be exact) and replacing it with “steel plates”- that’s lining the cabinet with steel plates!
I am intrigued to know what the benefit of “steel plates” would bring to a speaker like the Goodmans because I own a pair, and would consider dabbling if it were to improve the sound.
Any ideas to what the science is behind this recommendation?
Thanks
Dean
.You would only want it on the front baffle
There isn't much space on the front
the front is about 1 inch thick ply and the sides would be the thinnest,so I guess I would apply them to the sides to achieve more strength?The theory is that it stiffens up the baffle
The wadding is "not" to be replaced.Did they not say to replace the wadding after fitting plates? They perform totally different functions
what is the purpose of the wadding?
In the Goodmans it is very thick sponge type http://i50.tinypic.com/16a428i.jpg
Thanks for the replies
Dean
Check this thread out for the only use I know http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/mult...e-aligned-constrained-layer-construction.html
The foam absorbs the sound splashing around inside the box. Adding steel panels will make it splash around even more as it's more reflective than the wood. Properly attached steel panels (firmly glued all over) will strengthen the walls and reduce cabinet vibrations. Poorly attached steel panels (just screwed at corners) will just weigh the box down.
So you can see that you need both.
There is a lot of nonsense on the internet regarding modifications!
So you can see that you need both.
There is a lot of nonsense on the internet regarding modifications!
Check this thread out for the only use I know http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/mult...e-aligned-constrained-layer-construction.html
Thanks for the link-interesting stuff, and I can see what mean now "wow"! I don't think I'll be doing that with the Goodmans it's way out of my budget.
That "actually" makes sense to me! I would glue the plates to the both sides (internally) of the speaker cabinet,I guess there is no harm in strengthening the cabinet?.I can always add some sort of wadding later to experiment.Is there better stuff than the foam sponge that's already inside the Goodmans?The foam absorbs the sound splashing around inside the box. Adding steel panels will make it splash around even more as it's more reflective than the wood. Properly attached steel panels (firmly glued all over) will strengthen the walls and reduce cabinet vibrations. Poorly attached steel panels (just screwed at corners) will just weigh the box down.
So you can see that you need both.
I know! that's why I've decided to come here because I feel this is probably the most balanced forum on the web.There is a lot of nonsense on the internet regarding modifications
Thank you both for your contribution .
I will post my little project and findings in due coarse.
Cheers
Dean
Without the foam/wadding some of the sound that splashes around inside the box will find its way to the outside through the cones leading to comb filtering/smearing of the original signal.
Hmmm had never given the filler that much thought, but definitely is food for thought.
Without the foam/wadding some of the sound that splashes around inside the box will find its way to the outside through the cones leading to comb filtering/smearing of the original signal.
Thank you for your input.
I've been running the speakers today without the sponge/foam and in someways they are better, but there's something not quite right,I guess it must be what you're describing ,I've never heard of "comb filtering" but there's definitely a lack of cohesion (comb filtering?) ,I'm going to leave out the foam and source some steel plate to see if that will improve things.
I've done some research on the Goodmans Magnum Ks and apparently they were designed to be "air tight" so I'd better make sure that I seal-up the speakers when I finish.Does anyone know what I can use to make an airtight gasket,Silicone maybe?
thanks
Dean
As suggestion: rather than using steel which is a PITA to mate/use with wood.
Perhaps line your cabinets with Self adhesive SBS rubber membrane.
Found at (real) Construction Supply houses as Roofing Membrane, for affordable coin.
Use the 5/6 mm thick variety.
That will dampen the woodwork More than a steel lining that one can reasonably DIY.
Perhaps line your cabinets with Self adhesive SBS rubber membrane.
Found at (real) Construction Supply houses as Roofing Membrane, for affordable coin.
Use the 5/6 mm thick variety.
That will dampen the woodwork More than a steel lining that one can reasonably DIY.
Instead of lead sheet you could use something like this stuff:
Acoustistop 1.2Mx1M Sound Blocking Sheet at Studiospares
It'll be easier to work with and less poisonous than lead.
Acoustistop 1.2Mx1M Sound Blocking Sheet at Studiospares
It'll be easier to work with and less poisonous than lead.
Instead of lead sheet you could use something like this stuff:
Acoustistop 1.2Mx1M Sound Blocking Sheet at Studiospares
It'll be easier to work with and less poisonous than lead.
Thank you for the advice & link CD, that's something I will definitely consider.
Not sure where you're going with that Cal but I guess it takes all sortsCal Weldon =I like to lick the lead before I install it in the cabinets. Nothing like the taste of lead in the morning.
All the best
Dean
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