RCF also has this speaker which, I admit, is more than a minor inspiration for my project :
RCF TT08-A
RCF TT08-A
RCF also has this speaker which, I admit, is more than a minor inspiration for my project :
RCF TT08-A
Well, since we have been advised to high pass a coaxial that uses the woofer cone as the waveguide for the tweeter at about 300Hz in order to minimize FM distortion of the tweeter output, then it seems to me that even the smaller 4" and 5" coaxials, mentioned above, should be just fine. I think the size of the woofer in the coaxial anyone chooses should be more about SPL output than about going down low.
I think the size of the woofer in the coaxial anyone chooses should be more about SPL output than about going down low.
And for directivity control 😉
Glad I found this thread.
I'm looking for a build thread for 8" pro-sound coaxials for home audio use that cross over to midbass around 300hz or there abouts.
Budget is $250/per coaxial. Any suggestions on what may be the best current model to use?
Seems like some of these coaxials have been around for like ten years.
This is one that I'm looking at now:
B&C 8FCX51 8" Professional Coaxial Speaker 100 x 100 8 Ohm | 294-5766
Can't find any build threads yet though, which would have an established crossover I could copy.
I'm thinking of crossing the 8" coaxials over to either a single 12" woofer or a pair of 10's like in the pic below.
I'm looking for a build thread for 8" pro-sound coaxials for home audio use that cross over to midbass around 300hz or there abouts.
Budget is $250/per coaxial. Any suggestions on what may be the best current model to use?
Seems like some of these coaxials have been around for like ten years.
This is one that I'm looking at now:
B&C 8FCX51 8" Professional Coaxial Speaker 100 x 100 8 Ohm | 294-5766
Can't find any build threads yet though, which would have an established crossover I could copy.
I'm thinking of crossing the 8" coaxials over to either a single 12" woofer or a pair of 10's like in the pic below.
Attachments
You probably are aware that the co-ax will require a separate interior enclosure from the LF drivers, but just want to point that out in case you were not.I'm thinking of crossing the 8" coaxials over to either a single 12" woofer or a pair of 10's like in the pic below.
Hard to go wrong with B&C. Their less expensive 8CX21 also looks very good, though it handles a bit less power and is less sensitive. It's polar and impedance response looks a bit smoother than the 8FCX51, which would make crossover design easier. There is a XO-1 crossover listed for use with it, though it appears to be special order. The 8CX21 woofer also goes lower than the 8FCX51, which to me would be an advantage, as with flat response to 100 Hz, the subs could be placed for optimum room response, rather than requiring a single box to avoid location issues with a higher crossover point.
With an Xmax of 5mm, (quite a lot for an 8" full range driver) crossing at 100 Hz, IM distortion would not be a problem below around 117 dB SPL at one meter.
Art
Attachments
Glad I found this thread.
I'm looking for a build thread for 8" pro-sound coaxials for home audio use that cross over to midbass around 300hz or there abouts.
Budget is $250/per coaxial. Any suggestions on what may be the best current model to use?
For $500/pair you might be able to find a pair of old Tannoy System 8 NFM IIs. Keep the drivers, toss the cabinets, maybe use the xover as a starting point for your own models.
Those drivers are designed from the ground up as concentrics, and they're better than the pro-sound coaxials pieced together from various parts designed for non-coincident drivers. Even though they're pushing 30 years old by now.
Speaker Exchange also has an 8" Tannoy driver available new on its website near your price point. Not sure how available they are, but worth looking into.
There was a guy on here and PE selling a pair of the 8CX21s who said he had the schematics for the XO2 if anyone wanted a copy of them. Been meaning to PM him to get a copy for myself.
I would love the Tannoy's but they are out of my budget ATM.
I would love the Tannoy's but they are out of my budget ATM.
Thanks guys.
The DIY sound group has an 8" coax build using the Eminence 8" coax + a new CD design. It's $140/per and includes a home theater oriented crossover.
But, I'm not sure yet if I'll go that direction.
I'd like to go a step up I think.
I'm just not sure if the B&C 8CX21 is a step up or not.
Have the 8CX21's been revised over the years or is the one sold five years ago the exact same as the ones they sell today?
The DIY sound group has an 8" coax build using the Eminence 8" coax + a new CD design. It's $140/per and includes a home theater oriented crossover.
But, I'm not sure yet if I'll go that direction.
I'd like to go a step up I think.
I'm just not sure if the B&C 8CX21 is a step up or not.
Have the 8CX21's been revised over the years or is the one sold five years ago the exact same as the ones they sell today?
Speaker Exchange also has an 8" Tannoy driver available new on its website near your price point. Not sure how available they are, but worth looking into.
These?
Tannoy Sandringham SE 8" Dual Concentric Driver | Speaker ExchangeSpeaker Exchange
I've never heard anyone talk about the Tannoy being dynamic like you'll get with the pro sound coaxials. Then again, I've not paid any attention to Tannoy until the last couple days.
This will be used for home theater first and music second.
And in a huge room that opens up to other rooms. So whatever is used, will need to play clean at high SPL levels.
Sorry, I'm confused. CD stands for Coaxial Driver, or Constant Directivity, or something else ?
Yeah, this took me by surprise when I got here. In my world, CD stands for Constant Directivity. Here it is Compression Driver.
Speaking from experience, the two goals are mutually exclusive, sorry. A decent stage monitor needs to be hard, bright and cutting, with narrow-ish directivity to avoid feedback problems, with, (apart from drum fills) no need to go below about 100Hz. This is to cut across ambient noise, whether it be a manic drummer, a noisy pub crowd, or even just the low level chatter in a restaurant type gig. Not really what you want in a home hi-fi speaker. You could possibly do something with switchable crossovers, but the complexity may well cost more than the project is worth.
For example, for a wedge, I'd be looking at a first order HPF at about 300Hz to reduce muddiness below the voice range, a nice peak at about 1K to increase definition, and rolling off gently above about 8K to reduce feedback problems. Not nice to listen to under domestic conditions, but exactly what you need on stage.
I disagree. The smoother sounding, and less distortion there is in the wedge, the easier it is to get the mix to sound right, without having to push it to "get everything louder than everything else". The sound quality goals are the same.
The point you make about dispersion. This is personal preference, or situation dependent. In this case, the goals may vary, and different approaches may not work for both situations, as you state.
Likewise, BMS must not be entirely truthful or at least realistic about their drivers either.
I use BMS dual motor compression drivers to 300 hz quite often.
However, one must have a horn that is at least 30" square, and a couple feet deep to do this. So, to the OP, this does not fit the definition of small footprint. The fact that he wants an 8" instead of 12" coaxial far precludes us from using a compression driver for the mid portion in this scenario.
Yeah, that's the one I was thinking of.
I've never heard anyone talk about the Tannoy being dynamic like you'll get with the pro sound coaxials.
With good midbass support, they'll reproduce the dynamics encoded in the source material.
Jack, any plans for any new model ferrite 8" coaxes? I saw there were some newish 5s and 6s.
Not a new one, but I meant to mention that there is a ferrite model. The BMS 8C250.
I have so many thoughts on this subject, and wrote just a few things before I took off for the afternoon. Want to respond to some other posts too.
Jay, which Tannoys are the higher sensitivity stuff?
Jack, would be interested in your thoughts. Still trying to decide what to buy myself and the 8C250 is near the top...wished it was a touch more sensitive like the neo version (that I can't afford).
Jack, would be interested in your thoughts. Still trying to decide what to buy myself and the 8C250 is near the top...wished it was a touch more sensitive like the neo version (that I can't afford).
Jay, which Tannoys are the higher sensitivity stuff?
IIRC all of the 8's with smooth response are in the 90dB/W/m range.
I just saw a site with some specs on the 2046 (the one the fellow over seas is looking for), and says it is a basically a 92 dB driver. That about right? Looks like there were both 4 and 8 ohm versions too. The 4 ohm ones look especially good for what I want. Found out the other week that Mark Elridge used some version of the Tannoy 8 in his old 4 Runner when it was said to be the best it ever was...so that was more incentive for me.
Just need to find some for a good price to try out.
Jack's price on the BMS ferrite 8 is pretty awesome considering the engineering in them...and cheaper than my wholesale pricing on the B&C 8s.
Just need to find some for a good price to try out.
Jack's price on the BMS ferrite 8 is pretty awesome considering the engineering in them...and cheaper than my wholesale pricing on the B&C 8s.
Jay, which Tannoys are the higher sensitivity stuff?
Tannoys 15" DCs get around 101dB/1W.
These lot use Tannoy drivers and claim that which is the same as Tannoy themselves did when they were still making the 215DMT. Pelonis Sound & Acoustics
I've never come across Tannoy DCs which were not well above average when it comes to dynamics. Their old '80s K series drivers found themselves in domestic speakers as well as studio monitors and PA systems.
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