John Curl's Blowtorch preamplifier part II

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SN62 works best for me in audio service in nearly all applications. ( Just my experience)
Never seen problems with gold or silver plated connectors.

Scraping with a fiberbrush works fine for older parts to prevent cold solder joints and keep soldering time low.

But i wonder which solder type is best for aluminium with a standard wire, for connection of speaker ribbons for example?
 
SN62 works best for me in audio service in nearly all applications. ( Just my experience)
Never seen problems with gold or silver plated connectors.

Scraping with a fiberbrush works fine for older parts to prevent cold solder joints and keep soldering time low.

But i wonder which solder type is best for aluminium with a standard wire, for connection of speaker ribbons for example?

Wiki has a huge list of special solder formulations, I remember trying to solder to #40 wire before it disappeared.
 
That's apparently preferred for tinning in production situations, increasing solderability (according to my source). The technician-type hand soldering, i.e., the stuff that we all do, is a minuscule segment of the market.

So by production, you mean the production of leaded parts like resistors and capacitors?

Perhaps it's meant to foil people who insist on scraping leads. 😀

😀

se
 
I can understand that SN60 solder is specifically useful for some applications. I could be glad that it is on component leads, BUT I am sorry it is almost the only ratio that many here have ever used.
I agree that scraping leads is difficult, but it is necessary with new(old stock) like what many of us have in our inventory.
OF COURSE, if the resistors are brand new, and kept in sealed packages, the potential improvement is minimal, but how about you small time builders, out there?
 
Cleaner?
How so?
Quicker?
I'm not in that big a hurry.
Less chance?
The odds don't make it a mountain IMO. Burning up parts and boards isn't that commonplace 'round here.

Just a little thing I picked up from 30 years of working closely with electronic assembly and quality departments.
For hand soldering PTH components the joint can be formed quicker thus the soldering iron dose not have to be on the component lead for so long.😛
 
Use SMD and you don't have to scrape the leads...
Just keep the IC's in a controlled environment in sealed bags with a controlled humidity and moisture exposure due to the elevated temperatures of lead free soldering.
Wave soldering for a lot of mixed technology (SMD & PTH) is being replaced by selective soldering, to minimise the exposure to heat and a lot of newer smaller SMD components don't like being dipped in lead free solder, as double sided SMD placement is also more prevalent.

Oh forgot to mention the requirement quite often for a less aggressive flux, above.
 
Gpapag, I consider quality solder as almost obvious…

Thank you for explaining.

From the shops I buy here, I still get SN60/Pb40 and SN60/Pb39/Cu1 (both have solidus183/liquidus190 d.C, Rosin flux 2.2-2.5%, Halide 1.0%, that’s M type) for the reason that their customers are either repairmen or diyers.

Now, for to show that for “hand soldering reality, diy works”, eutectic precise temperature turns into an academic question, jneutron has thrown some cards on the table:
Solder’s nominal temperature/Soldering gun tip set temperature/Soldering gun tip actual temperature during soldering component-pcb mass/ flux delicate working temperature range.
These, rarely turn into four aces!

He provided an effective practical hint:
Use solder tip with a high thermal mass so that the tip has the means to supply heat to components mass while remaining stably close to the set temperature which in turn is set only a bit higher than solder’s liquidus temp
[question for the diy users of a soldering station: what is your set temperature (specify solder composition)? How often and how much are you forced to deviate from it?]

I don’t use a set temperature as my soldering guns (18W, 50W, 100W) are all 230Vac heating elements with no provision for temp adjustment.
By construction, the higher thermal mass is with the high wattage guns.
Feeding them through a variac, I manage to work on different pcb terrains (visual power feedback adjustment by looking at the resulting solder flow 😀 )

A multilayer PCB with a combination of very small soldering lands/metallised through holes/large ground planes, is a candidate for cold joints.
Pre heating the unpopulated pcb to 90-100d C in the kitchen oven has helped me a lot to solder properly on them.



Self life of solder’s flux should be of more concern to us the “small time builders”

George
 
That is WHY investing in a pound of really good solder is practical. In small operations, it seems to last 'forever'.

Does it remain within it’s specs “forever”? (f**k specs)
http://www.ewdsolutions.com/customer/elwida/customerpages/specpages/44.pdf

Scott’s wire solder spool (is it really 44 lb ?? ) is off by 41 years 😀



What is the speed of dark?

Richard, we are in trouble with this one!

-------------------------------------------------

Where is jneutron?
I called him a while ago
Is this good enough Dirty Jneutron?

He usually responds to queries from the ordinary outlaws, social leftovers (diyers).
Is he on a higher mission? (city mayor will be in trouble again)

"Hey bartender, what does Inspector Callahan is drinking over there"?

George
 
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