Lepai T-Amp with TA2020

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I did try to block the ports partially with open-cell foam plugs which I fabricated from art supply material. Somehow, I still didn't like the sound (l am a trained bassist). The lows were boomy and lacked definition. There was a good part in the upper mids missing too. The highs sounded muddy. These prompted me to block both ports totally. Now it is all good. Surprisingly, the lows are still there but without the boom. Midrange presence is back and the highs more extended.

Well, I think you're right about converting these little Wharfedales to infinite-baffle / sealed-box.

I've plugged the ports in the 9.0's more tightly (although not hermetically).

With the lightly-packed open-cell bungs there was still a trace of 'chuffing' from the ports when I cranked up bass sine-waves which has gone, and I immediately found that I had to turn up the Lepai/JPW sub to maintain the bottom-end.

Better, definitely, but I'm not sure that I'd do this without the sub to boost the < 60Hz stuff.

Now to replace the 2200pF reservoir cap in the Lepai.
 
I use single conductor 22AWG Cu wire for speaker wires, Ag plated to save the CU from the heavy Teflon jacketing. Cu and Teflon argue :) The bare ends tarnish, so, I cut then off every year, or so. The freshly peeled new ends still look brand new. I bought a fifteen pound reel of scraps, over a decade ago. I have not made much of a dent in that reel. A "sound" investment.

My switching power supply wall wart delivers 12.75 V to the LP-2020A+.

It was really noisy.

I have now spliced in a C-R-C-R-C-R-C-R-C-R-C-R-C "Pi" filter into the wires from the wall wart to the LP-2020A+.

It is now a bit quieter. And delivers 9.48 volts and 300 mA.

9.48V*0.3A = 2.8 watts to the chip.

2.8 watts * 80% worst case efficiency is 2.25 watts to the speex.

That is ~96 dB on my woofers at 430 Hz. crossover point, to ~80dB at 30 Hz @1W/1M.

It sounds OK.

C-R-C-R-C etc'. Caps and resistors?

I assume you're using full-range folded-horn speakers of c. 112 dB/W?:D
 
Replacing Lepai reservoir capacitor ...

With Panasonic FR (Length: 25mm), you can fit upright. You will have the bend the leads and fit sideway with FC (Length: 36mm). Some branded 4700uF caps (such as Nichicon, Elna, BC and certain Panasonic models) will NOT fit upright.

Again, thank you.

(I've titled the post to assist with searches - this is useful, basic info for dilettante modders like me).
 
No problem. You might want to add a 220nF (that's nanofarads!) polyester cap parallel to the reservoir cap to help filter the irregularities from power source.

For me, I solder the small cap BELOW the mainboard, directing under the reservoir cap across its terminals. This helps save space.

That would be quite small?

Could it be mounted under the PCB (soldered to the legs of the reservoir cap, poking through the board)?

ETA>> :D You're too fast!
 
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No need to poke through. Just under the mainboard, solder across the legs of the reservoir cap will do.

Yep - that's what I was saying.

However, assuming my Lepai is going to carry on as an amp for the woofer, it probably wouldn't benefit from it.

But now I'm wondering about the Indeed TA2020S which is, basically, what's providing most of the audio-band via the Diamond 9.0's.

Maybe it could benefit from this cap (assuming it isn't already present)?

ETA >> the Indeed has a 4700uF cap.
 
Nah... This small capacitor is cheap! Just add it while you still have a hot iron in case you decide to use the Lepai solo again.

You're quite right, I was thinking 'theoretically' instead of practically - if I'm going to be replacing the reservoir cap anyway, why not do both mods!

What do you think about the Indeed (or the various other TA2020 iterations - Muse, Sure, Topping, SMSL) - would they benefit from it?
 
that cap is too small

There were people who tested these small cap in parallel with larger one, they showed in order to make difference, the smaller cap need to be 20% value of the main cap, which in most case impractical. Lower value cap is for different purpose, mostly for EMI, not for filtering supplies.


No problem. You might want to add a 220nF (that's nanofarads!) polyester cap parallel to the reservoir cap to help filter the irregularities from power source.

For me, I solder the small cap BELOW the mainboard, directing under the reservoir cap across its terminals. This helps save space.
 
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