I want some opinions, on a specific subject mind not just on anything. Pa subwoofers come in many shapes and sizes costing Anything from £50 to thousands. And have different frequemcy Responses and spl etc. I'm going to build some subs for a small pa (sound teinforcement system) I'm making for myself and am not sure what's best. I have build a 12 inch scoop And by jingo its insane In my living room! But then so is my bass guitar
Amp and my 5.1 PC surround sound sub.
So say I'm making 8 Inch mains and want 12 inch subs, storage is
An issue. And this isn't going in tour or anything,
Mayb house parties if that. I know a 12 inch sounds insane in a scoop or a car
But one is way to big and one is in a car so what is the best design for me? I know won't get as low as bigger subs but that's ok for me, is a folded horn going to be better or just a big ported box, I can build easily so no worries there.
Thanks
Hugh
Amp and my 5.1 PC surround sound sub.
So say I'm making 8 Inch mains and want 12 inch subs, storage is
An issue. And this isn't going in tour or anything,
Mayb house parties if that. I know a 12 inch sounds insane in a scoop or a car
But one is way to big and one is in a car so what is the best design for me? I know won't get as low as bigger subs but that's ok for me, is a folded horn going to be better or just a big ported box, I can build easily so no worries there.
Thanks
Hugh
Budget?
Power available?
I'd be willing to bet that the "scoop" enclosure will kick you in the chest quite well, but will have no output at, say, 40Hz.
Small size, efficiency, LF extension - pick any two.
Chris
PS - definitions of "insane" will vary. 😉
Power available?
I'd be willing to bet that the "scoop" enclosure will kick you in the chest quite well, but will have no output at, say, 40Hz.
Small size, efficiency, LF extension - pick any two.
Chris
PS - definitions of "insane" will vary. 😉
Still in planning stages so Budget and power All depends on sub. Just to clarify this isn't for pro use as such, just for me. So I literally want to know what design could realistically go lowest, sound best, make best use of any power available. Just want an idea of what design is most efficient in the most respects.
Insane in terms of small one bed flat with 3 foot tall sub which can't use because vibrates
To much and is slightly unnecessaey! so in my endless wisdom I decided to build an entire system to not use either!
But for arguments sake lets say £40 for driver and 200wpc power
Amp, see where we go from there.
Thinking about 2 subs and two 2 way cabs above as a start and see where end up.
Insane in terms of small one bed flat with 3 foot tall sub which can't use because vibrates
To much and is slightly unnecessaey! so in my endless wisdom I decided to build an entire system to not use either!
But for arguments sake lets say £40 for driver and 200wpc power
Amp, see where we go from there.
Thinking about 2 subs and two 2 way cabs above as a start and see where end up.
Here's a 12" PA sub for $55........!
MCM Custom Audio 12'' PA / DJ Speaker Subwoofer 600W | 555-10317 (55510317) | MCM Custom Audio
MCM Custom Audio 12'' PA / DJ Speaker Subwoofer 600W | 555-10317 (55510317) | MCM Custom Audio
Sorry just to clarify I want sub cab ideas, not the actual driver
Or the whole thing. But that is very cheap sub!
Or the whole thing. But that is very cheap sub!
lets say .... for anything other than a sub
I'm afraid you will be in trouble because you don't like to reveal you know nothing about speakers
not enough Xmax
thats how much its able to move
and still keeping the voice coil inside the magnet gap
also called linear Xmax
in this case it appears to be +/-2.5mm
which is the same as 5mm P-P(peak to peak)
literally it means the woofer can move 2.5mm in and 2.5mm out
if it moves more it will result loss of cone control, and distortion
thats how much its able to move
and still keeping the voice coil inside the magnet gap
also called linear Xmax
in this case it appears to be +/-2.5mm
which is the same as 5mm P-P(peak to peak)
literally it means the woofer can move 2.5mm in and 2.5mm out
if it moves more it will result loss of cone control, and distortion
Right, so what is an acceptable Xmax for a sub driver?
And to clarify if I was an expert I wouldn't be on here asking questions. I'm not trying I hide what I know. I don't know a lot but I know more than
Nothing.
And to clarify if I was an expert I wouldn't be on here asking questions. I'm not trying I hide what I know. I don't know a lot but I know more than
Nothing.
good question
hard to say, even for the experts 😛
well... depends on how its being used
sure you would
just different questions
being an expert doesn't mean you know everything 😉
Ok so there is no definite answer? Just more than 2.5 or whatever it was? So if I look into high end subwoofers and see what they are and head that way? As for depends how being used, that's where my initial question comes from want to know best type of sub ad get driver to match that!
best bang for the money might be a 'tapped horn'
Tangband have a good reputation making small affordable woofers
but even the smallest of the TH designs are still bigger than a small BR (bass reflex/vented/ported)
basicly, the Xmax can be determined by how low you want it, and how loud
also room size and music style matters
Tangband have a good reputation making small affordable woofers
but even the smallest of the TH designs are still bigger than a small BR (bass reflex/vented/ported)
basicly, the Xmax can be determined by how low you want it, and how loud
also room size and music style matters
I did look at tapped horns but I think that's a bit big mayb! Folded maybe. as far as
Music types, anything and everything and whole system under 1000w to start with
Music types, anything and everything and whole system under 1000w to start with
I'd save up some money and get a JBL GTO1214.
Moves rather a lot of air quite cheaply.
I have one that's sat in a ~75L ported enclosure tuned to 18Hz. The result is a frequency response that slopes downwards toward the lower cutoff, so I applied EQ above the port tuning to get a theoretical -3dB point of 18Hz.
In-room you can feel the floor moving at 14Hz, and even ~300w won't bottom out the driver - the JBL seems rather good for those "oops" moments.
Chris
Edit - its not exactly a PA subwoofer, but more than adequate for house parties and big movie nights.
Moves rather a lot of air quite cheaply.
I have one that's sat in a ~75L ported enclosure tuned to 18Hz. The result is a frequency response that slopes downwards toward the lower cutoff, so I applied EQ above the port tuning to get a theoretical -3dB point of 18Hz.
In-room you can feel the floor moving at 14Hz, and even ~300w won't bottom out the driver - the JBL seems rather good for those "oops" moments.
Chris
Edit - its not exactly a PA subwoofer, but more than adequate for house parties and big movie nights.
ok
looking at what you are trying to say in that post
I guess your last sentence more less sums it up nicely
sounds like 'ordinary' hifi to me
why do you want PA subs ?
what kind of 2way ?
Not just subs, full range to. 8 inch with horns most likely. I know I can use hifi drivers instead but my question about cabinet still applies. And on the off chance I want to expand or use system for anything bigger want as much bang for my buk as I can get.
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