Welcome to the first installment (on this forum AFAIK) of Help the Ijit, where you try to help (or dissuade) the idle experimenter (that's me) from doing a project.
I recently discovered the concept of the Bose Wave Cannon. Long a Bose ***** (or John?) I am surprised that I'd not heard of it sooner. No matter. I have done a lot of reading of the old (very old) posts here at DIY. I want one! But I am CHEAP!!! I love Bose stuff, but only old, old and cheap (i.e. Bose 901s series I, II).
Not having much in the way of wood-working skills (I like to say that in shop class in 8th grade, I made bird house, which was promptly condemned by the county -- not far from the truth.) I saw some mention of being able to do a really cheap one using a concrete building form and a to-be-chosen subwoofer.
Although not sold at my nearby stores, I guess the go-to tube is from
Sonoco Construction Products
I would need to search for how to purchase...not at my local Lowe's or Home Depot. Perhaps it can be ordered in small lots.
I noted with humor that they have one range called "Blastmaster" ... that would be an appropriate source material for a "Cannon" clone, no? But I digress... I think I want a big, but not huge, tube that would fit in my living room. I'm thinking a 12" diameter and 12-15 ft long will be nice.
I envision a tube, or two, so that one is length L and the longer is 3L. All I have to do then is find a subwoofer and mount it so it is airtight when the tubes are joined. I would like to try just stuffing into the tube (with gasketing? Backer rod? weather stripping?) ... Major problem I'd forsee is that a sub is heavy, and it might make sense to glue in some bracing on the rear magnet of it. This could be done by making the short tube a bit longer than L, and then sticking the sub in rear facing me, so that I could improvise bracing on its rear.
Doing that would seem to make for easy woofer positioning; however I'd need to run the wires ... perhaps just out the long (empty) tube after it's joined?
How to join the two sections? It doesn't have to be strong...it just has to be air-tight. How about something easily undone? Perhaps wrap with a sheet of rubber (old inner tube?) and clamps at each end.
Now this would be cool: a house-shaking sub with not a single carpentry tool needed (assumes I can get tubing cut at store.)
For making the project as simple as possible, I think I need to decide on tube size and then shop for a sub that will fit ... how do I choose the appropriate driver?
I recently discovered the concept of the Bose Wave Cannon. Long a Bose ***** (or John?) I am surprised that I'd not heard of it sooner. No matter. I have done a lot of reading of the old (very old) posts here at DIY. I want one! But I am CHEAP!!! I love Bose stuff, but only old, old and cheap (i.e. Bose 901s series I, II).
Not having much in the way of wood-working skills (I like to say that in shop class in 8th grade, I made bird house, which was promptly condemned by the county -- not far from the truth.) I saw some mention of being able to do a really cheap one using a concrete building form and a to-be-chosen subwoofer.
Although not sold at my nearby stores, I guess the go-to tube is from
Sonoco Construction Products
I would need to search for how to purchase...not at my local Lowe's or Home Depot. Perhaps it can be ordered in small lots.
I noted with humor that they have one range called "Blastmaster" ... that would be an appropriate source material for a "Cannon" clone, no? But I digress... I think I want a big, but not huge, tube that would fit in my living room. I'm thinking a 12" diameter and 12-15 ft long will be nice.
I envision a tube, or two, so that one is length L and the longer is 3L. All I have to do then is find a subwoofer and mount it so it is airtight when the tubes are joined. I would like to try just stuffing into the tube (with gasketing? Backer rod? weather stripping?) ... Major problem I'd forsee is that a sub is heavy, and it might make sense to glue in some bracing on the rear magnet of it. This could be done by making the short tube a bit longer than L, and then sticking the sub in rear facing me, so that I could improvise bracing on its rear.
Doing that would seem to make for easy woofer positioning; however I'd need to run the wires ... perhaps just out the long (empty) tube after it's joined?
How to join the two sections? It doesn't have to be strong...it just has to be air-tight. How about something easily undone? Perhaps wrap with a sheet of rubber (old inner tube?) and clamps at each end.
Now this would be cool: a house-shaking sub with not a single carpentry tool needed (assumes I can get tubing cut at store.)
For making the project as simple as possible, I think I need to decide on tube size and then shop for a sub that will fit ... how do I choose the appropriate driver?
Hi Soldermizer,
Try your local construction equipment rental store for sonotubes, that's where they are being sold around here (Odessa, Texas).
If you haven't downloaded it yet, get Hornresp, it's free, and will allow you to simulate your design: Hornresp
As to drivers, maybe take a look at the JBL GTO1241D, you can find it at ebay.
And, I assume, that you have used search to search for similar projects?
Regards,
Try your local construction equipment rental store for sonotubes, that's where they are being sold around here (Odessa, Texas).
If you haven't downloaded it yet, get Hornresp, it's free, and will allow you to simulate your design: Hornresp
As to drivers, maybe take a look at the JBL GTO1241D, you can find it at ebay.
And, I assume, that you have used search to search for similar projects?
Regards,
Yes I read most of the threAds here.
Let me add these to my requirements...
An expensive sub is ok, especially if my boom tube design is a fiasco, I could then build a more conventional box.
Amplifier power is not an issue, as I have three iNukes available. We shall not comment on quality of amps here 🙂
Let me add these to my requirements...
An expensive sub is ok, especially if my boom tube design is a fiasco, I could then build a more conventional box.
Amplifier power is not an issue, as I have three iNukes available. We shall not comment on quality of amps here 🙂
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+100. Though I've yet to build one, I know its pretty much best bang for the buck.
JBL GTO 1214D (4x4 coils)
GTO 1214D T/S: Sd=511, (coils series; Imp=8-ohms Re=7.68, Le= 1.20), Qes=0.51, Qms=11.11, Qts=0.49, Vas-65.91L, Xmax=12.9mm. Data from JBL in the box with driver. ...regards, Michael
GTO 1214D T/S: Sd=511, (coils series; Imp=8-ohms Re=7.68, Le= 1.20), Qes=0.51, Qms=11.11, Qts=0.49, Vas-65.91L, Xmax=12.9mm. Data from JBL in the box with driver. ...regards, Michael
ok, no comments on quality of amps...But Why build such a Boomy speaker? Most people shoot for a "solid" and "tight" bass. But if you "believe" Bose speaker sound good...in that case Build a Bose speaker!
Hi Soldermizer,
In Post #244 of this thread: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/160879-build-your-own-2x12-th-kraken-212-th-25.html bjorno shows what can be expected from a good tapped horn design (using the JBL GTO1214).
Regards,
In Post #244 of this thread: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/160879-build-your-own-2x12-th-kraken-212-th-25.html bjorno shows what can be expected from a good tapped horn design (using the JBL GTO1214).
Regards,
Hi,
Yes, fumble fingers me again. 🙂 Sorry.
Here is another link that may be of interest, jbell's comparison of TH and acoustic wave cannon, Post #322: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/9501-acoustic-wave-canon-33.html
Regards,
Yes, fumble fingers me again. 🙂 Sorry.
Here is another link that may be of interest, jbell's comparison of TH and acoustic wave cannon, Post #322: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/9501-acoustic-wave-canon-33.html
Regards,
The Ijit (me) has just bought the following driver off Ebay for about $83:
Peerless XXLS Sub 830845
http://www.tymphany.com/files/XXLS-P830845 Rev1_0.pdf
It seems to have a similar pedigree to new woofs, and about 1/3 or 1/4 the price delivered 🙂
I think building a TQWL or tapered horn is too complex for me. I am going to do the Sonotube thing ... first the 1/4 wave El-Pipe-O type, and maybe later add the shorter piece to make a clone of BWC.
Peerless XXLS Sub 830845
http://www.tymphany.com/files/XXLS-P830845 Rev1_0.pdf
It seems to have a similar pedigree to new woofs, and about 1/3 or 1/4 the price delivered 🙂
I think building a TQWL or tapered horn is too complex for me. I am going to do the Sonotube thing ... first the 1/4 wave El-Pipe-O type, and maybe later add the shorter piece to make a clone of BWC.
As an attorney for Bose Corporation, I am telling you to cease and desist...and please send a check for $1,000,000,000 damages to:
Old Pink
The Funny Farm
Chalfont, UK
Just kidding, I'm curious how this works out!
Old Pink
The Funny Farm
Chalfont, UK
Just kidding, I'm curious how this works out!
A TH can be as simple to build as a bass reflex box.
Having built boxes of all types from plywood, I find that simple TH are far easier to construct and finish than cabinets made of Sonotube.
Ha! I would sooner build a wood chimney and hearth.
I.can go far with tubes and duct tape. It will look *** but can hide behind a big sofa. :*)
Latest idea is why cant I try flexible duct or tubing ... for a twist as you like transmission line? How much If any flexing is allowed? Here is a firm that sells possible pipes:
Industrial Hose Manufacturer · Hoses & Ducting · Flexaust Inc.
I.can go far with tubes and duct tape. It will look *** but can hide behind a big sofa. :*)
Latest idea is why cant I try flexible duct or tubing ... for a twist as you like transmission line? How much If any flexing is allowed? Here is a firm that sells possible pipes:
Industrial Hose Manufacturer · Hoses & Ducting · Flexaust Inc.
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Well, me and some others have had some success using rubber flex duct to pipe trunk mounted BP sub output into the car's cabin, but they don't come in really large sizes AFAIK.
The large Flexaust looks promising, though only one way to know for sure. Note that due to friction losses that a sim won't be accurate, so you'll probably need a larger and/or longer one than predicted plus may need some stuffing in it also. Surprisingly, I didn't need any for the 6"? I used back in the late '90s, only a piece of thick old speaker grill-cloth stretched over the end to 'critically' damp it.
GM
The large Flexaust looks promising, though only one way to know for sure. Note that due to friction losses that a sim won't be accurate, so you'll probably need a larger and/or longer one than predicted plus may need some stuffing in it also. Surprisingly, I didn't need any for the 6"? I used back in the late '90s, only a piece of thick old speaker grill-cloth stretched over the end to 'critically' damp it.
GM
I used ADS ducting in TL installations around 30 years ago. It worked, but after 1999 anything done before was wrong and dumb, including the Bass BBgun. Do what you will, the driver chosen will work in better applications. Yes I am one of those who consider Bose a marketing triumph, not an audio trailblazer. Who copied the Bass Cannon? Reminds me of Peggy Lee asking, is that all there is?
ADS is available as large as 12"
ADS is available as large as 12"
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