A quick search reveals there's more listed: Electrostatic Speaker Membrane Dupont Mylar C 6um 40M | eBay
image in life on ebay 40 meters 620 mm wide free postage 6 um in thickness,Mylar, hope this helps. Have bought several times.
The PVA was good for only a few months. When I opened my ESL up, the copper charge ring was very badly corroded.
Try to ask Staticide for a small sample, they might just give some to you for free. 🙂
Hi Wachara,
Thanks for your information.
I'll clean up my PVA soon.
I'll try to use evamide as ebay sold mylar and evamide in package.
A few people that I know don't have good experience with evamide either - just so you know.
Wachara C.
Wachara C.
Really..??
I thought several years ago people talk about evamide and looks like become a miracle ingredient.
What happen with evamide?
What effect after use evamide?
Very appreciated if you can share with me.
Thanks.
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Hi,
people talk alot as the days go by. 😉 That doesn´t say that their talk is not firmly grounded or sensible, but it also doesn´t imply the opposite
Seems that Elvamide has had its time of Hype.
At the time other materials are hyped and tomorrow surely will bring a new or revived hype.
Let the past inform You, but not obsure the sight on things.
When Elvamide was used comercially there was hardly any other durable reliable option. Things changed though and we have a couple of possibilites with advantages in safety, easy of handling, application and performance.
jauu
Calvin
ps. My clear transparent Tesa recipe coating (PVA-Glue or similar) still works after >>10years on one of my oldest panels, which I get every now and then out of the wet damp garage into the living room. Apart from the different climatic situation under which Wachara suffers, this seems to be the single most important difference, defining fail or success.
The only drawback of tis coating seems to be to find the right glue
people talk alot as the days go by. 😉 That doesn´t say that their talk is not firmly grounded or sensible, but it also doesn´t imply the opposite
Seems that Elvamide has had its time of Hype.
At the time other materials are hyped and tomorrow surely will bring a new or revived hype.
Let the past inform You, but not obsure the sight on things.
When Elvamide was used comercially there was hardly any other durable reliable option. Things changed though and we have a couple of possibilites with advantages in safety, easy of handling, application and performance.
jauu
Calvin
ps. My clear transparent Tesa recipe coating (PVA-Glue or similar) still works after >>10years on one of my oldest panels, which I get every now and then out of the wet damp garage into the living room. Apart from the different climatic situation under which Wachara suffers, this seems to be the single most important difference, defining fail or success.
The only drawback of tis coating seems to be to find the right glue
Last edited:
Hi,
people talk alot as the days go by. 😉 That doesn´t say that their talk is not firmly grounded or sensible, but it also doesn´t imply the opposite
Seems that Elvamide has had its time of Hype.
At the time other materials are hyped and tomorrow surely will bring a new or revived hype.
Let the past inform You, but not obsure the sight on things.
When Elvamide was used comercially there was hardly any other durable reliable option. Things changed though and we have a couple of possibilites with advantages in safety, easy of handling, application and performance.
jauu
Calvin
ps. My clear transparent Tesa recipe coating (PVA-Glue or similar) still works after >>10years on one of my oldest panels, which I get every now and then out of the wet damp garage into the living room. Apart from the different climatic situation under which Wachara suffers, this seems to be the single most important difference, defining fail or success.
The only drawback of tis coating seems to be to find the right glue
Hi Calvin,
Thanks for your explanation.
I just bought mylar and new foil tape from ebay in case mine has problem in the future.
I think your explanation make sense as PVAc glue formula not similar each other and depend on the climate situation.
I try to order ACL 6300 but very expensive $130/3lbs excl. shipping.
Anyway, I'll observe my coating during the time.
thanks for sharing!
The PVA was good for only a few months. When I opened my ESL up, the copper charge ring was very badly corroded.
Try to ask Staticide for a small sample, they might just give some to you for free. 🙂
Hi Wachara,
You are correct, my panel shows sign to die (again..!) looks like the formula didn't last long in high humidity environment like my place.
I did order the ACL Staticide for $150 but need 4 weeks to for delivery..🙁
I'll update again once I redo with Staticide.
In the meanwhile I may want to make by myself the diy esl use mylar which I order just recently.
Any feedback on this FPN? I have a dead Aerius panel at home that I have to decide what to do with. The shower trick helped with the other one but this one in completely silent. :-(
If the ML panel make No sound.....you have lost High V bias.......if you put the bad panel in one that works............an the working panels in the one thats dead now an it works....we no the bias an setup trnsfourmers are working........
It the red wire that feeds the panel bias....it can lose contact with the copper feed that runs up the right side only!.....it just laded in there.......you may be abel to move it around an make contact agin..........An the blue & black wire can brake off also...so ck them.............good luck
It the red wire that feeds the panel bias....it can lose contact with the copper feed that runs up the right side only!.....it just laded in there.......you may be abel to move it around an make contact agin..........An the blue & black wire can brake off also...so ck them.............good luck
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Okay, the plot thickens. I swapped the panels last night. Now the one that worked before, doesn't any longer. And the one that wasn't working, now works well. I can only assume then that I have an electronic problem?
If the LEds liteup....the bias board is working....... but if the bad box dose not... theres a chip on the bias board........ML may have the chip?.....But ck the wires on to the board..
call ML tell them the prob.......thay well help walk you though...Maybe....
.good luck
call ML tell them the prob.......thay well help walk you though...Maybe....
.good luck
Reversing myself, thread will stay open.Hi Guys,
Apologize for remove the attachment and the step by step to re-coating the Aerius in this thread.
The reason I remove the step by step is actually the solution didn't work (for me) and create another trouble for me.
In months after i re-coat my panel the sound start weak again, not balance between left and right and completely lost the sound in around 4 months.
I left the speaker due to my activities and around 2 months later I have chance try to fix it.
The terrible thing when I open the panel is the flat cooper ring is heavily corroded and cut off the signal /voltage from the HV PS to the Mylar.
I try to clean the coating but the result is not good.
I suggest to all of you to use other technique provides by other member (or use Wachara Staticide if you can find it) if you want to re-coat your panel.
I didn't have chance to try other methods as I sold my speaker end of last year to a person who willing to fix it.
This is to answer other member who curious to see the experiment result in the long run.
Apologize for remove the attachment and the step by step to re-coating the Aerius in this thread.
The reason I remove the step by step is actually the solution didn't work (for me) and create another trouble for me.
In months after i re-coat my panel the sound start weak again, not balance between left and right and completely lost the sound in around 4 months.
I left the speaker due to my activities and around 2 months later I have chance try to fix it.
The terrible thing when I open the panel is the flat cooper ring is heavily corroded and cut off the signal /voltage from the HV PS to the Mylar.
I try to clean the coating but the result is not good.
I suggest to all of you to use other technique provides by other member (or use Wachara Staticide if you can find it) if you want to re-coat your panel.
I didn't have chance to try other methods as I sold my speaker end of last year to a person who willing to fix it.
This is to answer other member who curious to see the experiment result in the long run.
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