Hey everyone. I hope you guys can help me with something. I would like to change the opamps on my Creative Audigy SE soundcard and on my Yamaha RX-V395RDS A/V receiver and i need some help on some cost effective high fidelity opamps (i am on a very tight budget). I have read some info about the LM4562NA and they look good, but i dont want to spend 10$+shipping for an opamp (that is how much it costs in my country). My question is are there any good audio grade opamps for less or there is no such thing as a high quality cost effective opamp?
Unfortunately the JRC5534 is only a single opamp and the 4558 and 4556 on my soundcard are dual opamps. If they would be trough hole on the soundcard it would not be a problem as they are adaptors for single opamps. Any more suggestions?
5532 sounds pretty good and its cheap too. (Its a bit bassy)
Try ebay.. but ebay is full of fakes
So... ummm...
So you want to change the 4556 too? Its preamp for line in or for mic...
One of them is for the line-in, the other 4556s are for the rear, center and subwoofer channels. So you think it would make some difference if I change them with 5532s ? My other reason for the upgrade is because I think the left channel on the on the 4558 is fried. It makes crackling noise when I connect it to the amp and distorts horribly when i connect headphones, it distorts so bad that I can`t even understand the music.
Thanks for your oppinion Kvaal. Yestarday I`ve found out that one 6 pin transistor (i think it`s 2 transistors in one package) that drivers the left channel after the opamp is shorting out. I think it is used to boost the audio signal if you use headphones. I have no idea where i will get a spare of one of those 
You could try RS components. They operate in Romania. Interestingly, the contact page on the Romanian website links to COMPEC, so maybe they're partners or something? I can't read the language, so I'm not sure exactly what the story is.
Is there a part number on it?Thanks for your oppinion Kvaal. Yestarday I`ve found out that one 6 pin transistor (i think it`s 2 transistors in one package) that drivers the left channel after the opamp is shorting out. I think it is used to boost the audio signal if you use headphones. I have no idea where i will get a spare of one of those
Without knowing what the originals are, and how they are utilized it makes things rather difficult
Whilst different opamps may be pin compatible the requirements for making them stable may be very different.
for instance what if the originals are being used as unity gain buffers, and are unity gain stable, but your choice of replacement is not unity gain stable?
What if your originals have a bandwidth of 7Mhz and your new ones have a bandwidth of 150Mhz , the originals may not require much consideration to layout but your new ones most certainly will!!
Something that a lot of people seem to like, and should be relatively safe (unity gain stable and only 8Mhz bandwidth) is the opa2134 but as I said without knowing the specs of the originals it is a bit hard to say
http://www.partsconnexion.com/prod_pdf/opamp_64156.pdf $2.95 each from partsconnexion.
Tony.
Whilst different opamps may be pin compatible the requirements for making them stable may be very different.
for instance what if the originals are being used as unity gain buffers, and are unity gain stable, but your choice of replacement is not unity gain stable?
What if your originals have a bandwidth of 7Mhz and your new ones have a bandwidth of 150Mhz , the originals may not require much consideration to layout but your new ones most certainly will!!
Something that a lot of people seem to like, and should be relatively safe (unity gain stable and only 8Mhz bandwidth) is the opa2134 but as I said without knowing the specs of the originals it is a bit hard to say
http://www.partsconnexion.com/prod_pdf/opamp_64156.pdf $2.95 each from partsconnexion.
Tony.
Well on mine it is realy hard to read, I was able to make out 3 characters and those ar 2N0, i have found a large picture of it on Google and on that pictures I can read it`s 2N06, but i couldn`t find any info about it.
Without knowing what the originals are, and how they are utilized it makes things rather difficult
Whilst different opamps may be pin compatible the requirements for making them stable may be very different.
for instance what if the originals are being used as unity gain buffers, and are unity gain stable, but your choice of replacement is not unity gain stable?
What if your originals have a bandwidth of 7Mhz and your new ones have a bandwidth of 150Mhz , the originals may not require much consideration to layout but your new ones most certainly will!!
Something that a lot of people seem to like, and should be relatively safe (unity gain stable and only 8Mhz bandwidth) is the opa2134 but as I said without knowing the specs of the originals it is a bit hard to say
http://www.partsconnexion.com/prod_pdf/opamp_64156.pdf $2.95 each from partsconnexion.
Tony.
Well here the SMD types sell for € 8,13 that`s $ 10,50 and like I sad in my first post I don`t want and can`t spend 10$ on an opamp. But maybe i`ll just change the main channels opamp first as I don`t really much use the other 4. Thanks for your oppinion
So in the Yamaha, you have a SIP-8 package? That is probably a dual op-amp (but look it up to be sure). There is a trick you can do to use a quad DIP opamp in place of the sip-8 dual opamp. You'll notice that the seven pins on one side of a quad opamp are laid out the same as 7 of the 8 pins of a sip-8 package. So take a quad opamp, 'flatten' it out, and cut off all the pins on one side, except the power supply pin, which you'll have to connect with a wire to the 8th pin hole.
The LM4562 is very good, but also very fast, and can misbehave (oscillate) terribly when dropped into some existing designs. Others have already said this and I agree, try something slower. The NE5532 (or Japanese clone like NJM5532, JRC5532) are an old design but very low noise and distortion, very cheap, can drive fairly low ohm loads, and are very popular. I have also used Texas instruments RC4580 (an American clone of Japanese JRC4580/NJM4580, go figure) which is spec'ed almost identically to the '5532. I replaced 20 or so cheap, noisy Mitsubishi op-amps in a surround receiver with these, and I'm very happy with the result.
The LM4562 is very good, but also very fast, and can misbehave (oscillate) terribly when dropped into some existing designs. Others have already said this and I agree, try something slower. The NE5532 (or Japanese clone like NJM5532, JRC5532) are an old design but very low noise and distortion, very cheap, can drive fairly low ohm loads, and are very popular. I have also used Texas instruments RC4580 (an American clone of Japanese JRC4580/NJM4580, go figure) which is spec'ed almost identically to the '5532. I replaced 20 or so cheap, noisy Mitsubishi op-amps in a surround receiver with these, and I'm very happy with the result.
Thanks for the reply. I think i will try the NE5532 first cause it`s cheap. First I have to fix that dead transistor.
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