Hi All,
Duratex is ordered, handles and input plates have been chosen, I've almost decided on the driver and I have all tools that I need to put together a pair of THAM-15s.
I'm thinking that this will work for a metal grill:
Crown Bolt 24 in. x 3/4 in. x 24 in. Metal Plain Expanded Sheet-45840 at The Home Depot
Two questions:
1) Is there anything better that's more suited to the task and also readily available?
2) What is the best way to fasten this to the front of the cabinet. Are there some handy little hardware packs that I don't know about? The best idea that I have right now is bending the sides and tops in for strength and using wood screws with some sort of U attachment like what are used for cable nails. I want this to be sturdy, however, and that sounds flaky and difficult to install.
Duratex is ordered, handles and input plates have been chosen, I've almost decided on the driver and I have all tools that I need to put together a pair of THAM-15s.
I'm thinking that this will work for a metal grill:
Crown Bolt 24 in. x 3/4 in. x 24 in. Metal Plain Expanded Sheet-45840 at The Home Depot
Two questions:
1) Is there anything better that's more suited to the task and also readily available?
2) What is the best way to fasten this to the front of the cabinet. Are there some handy little hardware packs that I don't know about? The best idea that I have right now is bending the sides and tops in for strength and using wood screws with some sort of U attachment like what are used for cable nails. I want this to be sturdy, however, and that sounds flaky and difficult to install.
I've just discovered reliable hardware.
I really like this:
Custom Speaker Grills
Is this too tight for a sub?
I really like this:
Custom Speaker Grills
Is this too tight for a sub?
I used this same material and it worked very nicely. I sanded it lightly, primed it and then sprayed a gloss black in it. The best way to fold the sides as you mentioned I found was to put an edge in a WorkMate bench or equivalent. It makes a perfect, and perfectly straight fold. The only thing I would do differently was the way I fastened it to the box (don't even ask). Didn't work so great. I was thinking about using something on the order of mirror-clips (metal) to do the next one. The trick as always is how to get to the screws you are using, if you don't want these exposed at the front.
I built a downfiring 5.6 ft.^3 coffee table sub with a pair of 12" drivers in it.
16" X 16" X 48" outside dimensions.
Then my wife got Kittens.
They could fit through the 2" perimeter gap around the table.
I sandwiched a layer of 1/4" hole hardware cloth between 2 rings of good 1/2" Ply.
This was the only way I could clear the stroke of the (new) face mounted drivers.
I simply ran drywall screws through both rings and the mesh into the baffle, with clearance holes in the ply so that it would clamp together.
It never buzzed or rattled, even up at ~ 500W input.
.
Of course, I did not care what it looked like as it faced the floor.
Just saying.
Dave
16" X 16" X 48" outside dimensions.
Then my wife got Kittens.
They could fit through the 2" perimeter gap around the table.
I sandwiched a layer of 1/4" hole hardware cloth between 2 rings of good 1/2" Ply.
This was the only way I could clear the stroke of the (new) face mounted drivers.
I simply ran drywall screws through both rings and the mesh into the baffle, with clearance holes in the ply so that it would clamp together.
It never buzzed or rattled, even up at ~ 500W input.
.
Of course, I did not care what it looked like as it faced the floor.
Just saying.
Dave
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I don't need them to be that removable. Thinking about this there must be some sort of L bracket that has a threaded hole on one half that I can just screw into the side of the cabinets. I'm pretty sure that I can just make them, in fact, with angle stock and a tap.
FWIW, I do want these to look good. I'm giving up my JBL single 18s for these, so I need to love them.
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