Has plenty of xmax problem is getting the cone to move far enough...
Xmax 19.05 Millimeters, (voice coil – gap) / 2 (one way)
Does the driver require some kind of air resistive load to reach xmax?
Xmax 19.05 Millimeters, (voice coil – gap) / 2 (one way)
Does the driver require some kind of air resistive load to reach xmax?
The G-sub is a PA bass bin. I only posted it as an example of what these drivers are intended for.
You are using these as a dipole woofer - how are they set up? What kind of baffle? What kind of EQ / shelving filter / linkwitz transform are you using?
You may need to improve your understanding of dipole sub design.
I built a pair of dipole subs over 10 years ago, and believe me, they hit xmax no problem.
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Do you have any links to concise articles that explains the relationship of F3, Fb & Fs, as I believe if I understood what each of these did I might understand better why previous subs failed.
BTW. Playing with my active xover I have managed to get more bass out of these drivers by changing my woofer high pass from 25Hz - 48dB Butterworth to 10Hz - 24dB Butterworth.
In my efforts to not let the driver get out of control I seem to have restricted the bottom end a bit too much.
BTW. Playing with my active xover I have managed to get more bass out of these drivers by changing my woofer high pass from 25Hz - 48dB Butterworth to 10Hz - 24dB Butterworth.
In my efforts to not let the driver get out of control I seem to have restricted the bottom end a bit too much.
This is what I keep getting told, but when the drivers are barely moving clearly I am doing something wrong... but as per my previous post I think I was possilby over restricting the driver and now they sound like they are moving a bit more air.
At what sort of volume levels should it hit xmax? I probably wrongly assumed this might take place at lower levels.
https://www.google.com/search?q=+F3,+Fb+&+Fs&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls
What is your dipole sub setup please. If you don't have a baffle (U or H) and a shelving filter / transform / eq, you are basically wasting your time and won't get any bass. You read (and fully understand) the linkwitz website on this, right?
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Hmm, an 18" is close to dual 15" in piston area, so stereo 18" is a pretty formidable amount of piston area for all but the most demanding music and/or at high SPL.
If they aren't moving much watching an action movie, then for whatever reason they aren't getting much LFE signal as most current movies would probably have you diving for the volume control to keep from bottoming the drivers out in an OB since excursion increases 4x/octave.
This assumes a true OB system, i.e. out well away from the room walls, not a baffle stuck near a corner that's acting as a lossy vented alignment.
GM
I am working my way towards a H baffle but currently have one driver with no baffle and the other is sitting in a flat minimal baffle.
Sorry dont know what a shelving filter / transform is (still trying to learn so much at once) until recently I had never seen the word transform before.
My current setting in the active xover are
High Pass Filter 10Hz - 24dB Butterworth
Low Pass Filter 115Hz - 24dB Butterworth
You would be perfectly correct in assuming that I haven't spent enough time refining cabinets and haven't given these drivers a fair enough chance to prove themselves.
Yes I did read the Linkwitz website and is why I was heading down the path of a H baffle. I still have a ton to learn and appreciate your patience while I get up to speed.
Sorry dont know what a shelving filter / transform is (still trying to learn so much at once) until recently I had never seen the word transform before.
My current setting in the active xover are
High Pass Filter 10Hz - 24dB Butterworth
Low Pass Filter 115Hz - 24dB Butterworth
You would be perfectly correct in assuming that I haven't spent enough time refining cabinets and haven't given these drivers a fair enough chance to prove themselves.
Yes I did read the Linkwitz website and is why I was heading down the path of a H baffle. I still have a ton to learn and appreciate your patience while I get up to speed.
True, but again, he says he wants the most BW, presumably because some movies go down into the single digits, which will always be a large sealed alignment.
Regardless, tuning a driver this far below its Fs yields very little extra gain BW except at Fb, then it falls off a cliff, so you have give up some of that gain to protect it.
Factor in that a pair of these with 1 kW/ea. can in theory meet the THX, etc. reference at half power before adding any room gain, I see no reason to vent them.
GM
To be perfectly honest I think I should can the idea of putting these drivers into a sub cabinets, and leave them as they are, even after that minor change I made earlier I am getting a much more bass out of them.
By the time I have them in a proper H baffle I should have plenty of bass becuase what I currently have is nearly enough for music.
Forgot to mention have 5dB gain on woofers 3.5 dB gain on Mid Woofers.
By the time I have them in a proper H baffle I should have plenty of bass becuase what I currently have is nearly enough for music.
Forgot to mention have 5dB gain on woofers 3.5 dB gain on Mid Woofers.
You really, REALLY need to gain some understanding of dipole sub design. PLEASE.
Good luck.
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I'm trying but the math often brings me undone. If someone could just tell me what dimensions to make the cabinets I could make them up, but often people want to point you to complicated math it would takes years to understand first.
I have picked up some of what is on those pages but no where near enough to confidently start cutting wood and build a box, so currently the driver sits in unfinished flat baffle (I have only just assemble the other driver and havent had chance to make a baffle for it).
I will get there eventually and in hindsight I really don't think I gave these drivers a fair enough go to prove themselves.
I have picked up some of what is on those pages but no where near enough to confidently start cutting wood and build a box, so currently the driver sits in unfinished flat baffle (I have only just assemble the other driver and havent had chance to make a baffle for it).
I will get there eventually and in hindsight I really don't think I gave these drivers a fair enough go to prove themselves.
I've been responding to what the best overall way to achieve what SS says he wants performance wise, but since you can't seem to understand this, then how about you model a 0.1 Hz vented alignment, which is the real world practical limit of a low Q sealed alignment, then get back to us with how much real world increase in performance below 80 Hz it has over the sealed and how much bigger [if any] it needs to be to achieve it.
GM
Kind of hard to be specific considering your more recent postings and what TD has been harping on; so what do you really want? OB, lowest BW, most gain BW down to 'x' Hz? Just for music or HT also? If the latter, you'll have to elaborate more on your performance goals as personal preference, WAF, room, neighbor affects the speaker alignment required.
Plus, max size baffle or cab dims you can tolerate. Both drivers in one cab or better, in individual cabs?
GM
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