I have a Directed D600 amp hooked up to two 10" Orion Subs. The other day the fuse blew and since I couldn't notice any problems I replaced it. As I started driving I smelled something burning so I pulled the fuse. My amp turns on now but there is no sound from my subs. I have attached pictures from the inside of the amp. Does it sound/look like this is worth fixing or should I just invest in a new one?
Thanks,
Morgan
Thanks,
Morgan
Attachments
The power supply FETs have failed. There may be other damage (burned gate resistors, failed driver or output transistors...). Only you can decide whether it's worth repairing.
off subject, can i hook up a car amp in my garage?? what do i need to do this, i have amps and subs that will probably never go in a car again and i have a huge garage that could use some bass...???
Playing car equipment in workshop



What you will need is a power supply that give out sufficient amperes at 13 volts and if you use some of those "super duper" amps that give out 100 watts or more then you will need a unit that can give you at least 25 amps you can roughly calxulate it with the pld formula WATTS=VOLTS TIMES AMPS W=VA plus 40% roughly for driving the C.D. player etcerera. A large battery is sometimes a solution because then you can put on it a charger after your disco concert. DO NOT USE A BATTERY CHARGER!!! I know it is tempting but they give out up to 20 volts opoen circuit. I have lost some old radios before I was made attentive of this fact and didn testing with a large electrolytic capacitor and the tester on it. ALWAYS MAKE SURE OF THE POLARITIES BEFORE swithching on. I've seen many sets burnt out because the battery was connected back to front. Especially higher powered I.C's. Otherwise it works.😀off subject, can i hook up a car amp in my garage?? what do i need to do this, i have amps and subs that will probably never go in a car again and i have a huge garage that could use some bass...???



actually, i used to use a number of different chargers in the 10a range, +/- with success, however, it was always run to an optima yellow-top, until that died from years of storage. i always monitored the voltage and didn't set it any higher than what i was using, even automatic chargers with different settings. true, a charger alone is not the best idea. old/simple ones can reach excess voltage on higher settings, and can have more than a 5v ac ripple. the radio at work is run strictly off a 15/40/200a roll-around charger. for in-shop setup, you can use a modified computer power supply, but if you must, look at a battery recycling shop for a sla, or other spill-proof battery that does not gas, to place on your charger. possibly a sealed agm, bat-cap, etc. batteries, in general are a safety hazard. and of course, best thing is a real power supply. i'm sure there are plenty of discussions in other sections on this forum that will provide info on what you need. should have the comp. power supply mod somewhere, as well.
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