The thought of breaking them both down and swapping the amps to isolate the issue, isn't high on my list. Any suggestions?
Swap the amps to isolate the issue!
If you really really have wired then identically, then one of the modules must be faulty, so I can't really see what your alternative is (and that's why I powered then up before assembly)
I did power them up and I got all the LED lights on both. As far as I can tell, that is all you can do, without building them out. Does anyone know if the led lights provide and diagnostics?
Guess its time to break them down.
Guess its time to break them down.
I did power them up and I got all the LED lights on both. As far as I can tell, that is all you can do, without building them out. Does anyone know if the led lights provide and diagnostics?
Guess its time to break them down.
Looks like I either got a bad module or I did something Though I cannot see how I could have caused anything. So I know both power supplies and one amp work.
I did power them up and I got all the LED lights on both. As far as I can tell, that is all you can do, without building them out. Does anyone know if the led lights provide and diagnostics?
Guess its time to break them down.
Could be a adjustment problem like both of mine !
Could be a adjustment problem like both of mine !
Ship back to the Continent sort of adjustment or quick twist with a Philips head?
having a hi-z amp is not the only way to implement current drive in a system.
Alan Garren
Would you mind elaborating (or privide some links)?
Does anyone know if the led lights provide and diagnostics?
As far as I know, no. I understand they are there just to provide a stable voltage drop. They are not driven by any sort of logic circuit.
As far as I know, no. I understand they are there just to provide a stable voltage drop. They are not driven by any sort of logic circuit.
almost, note that while they are not indicators as Julf says, they do provide indication of whether there is power and if it is in standby.
No LEDs on= no power
some LEDs on = standby (forget how many)
all LEDs on = ON
Alan
Would you mind elaborating (or privide some links)?
Control engineering - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Ship back to the Continent sort of adjustment or quick twist with a Philips head?
Sorry but what do you mean I do not understand this at all ! 😕
Ship back to the Continent sort of adjustment or quick twist with a Philips head?
Sorry but what do you mean I do not understand this at all ! 😕
I understood yetis to be asking whether he would have to send it back to hypex our whether he could adjust it himself
Yetis, I think the forum's total knowledge about the adjustment off the ncore is contained in the thread. Offset adjustment using 2 of the presets, and overvoltage protection using the on board header. Try searching the thread
(any other adjustments anyone?)
I think overvoltage protection adjustment for input section needs sending it to Nederland. The overvoltage protection is not adjusted when leaving the factory. So because of that this was my problem.
Protection adjustment
See jmbulg's post
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/vendors-bazaar/190434-hypex-ncore-381.html#post3002746
See jmbulg's post
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/vendors-bazaar/190434-hypex-ncore-381.html#post3002746
Yes a feedback loop is required for a current source around the resistor on the output (the voltage to current converter). However, that doesn't explain how you could build a low output impedance current source
How would that current feedback loop look like? Would it be difficult to build? How would it affect maximum output power for a given load?
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I would think that ideally the output resistor would be in the feedback loop of the ncore.
Bruno would be best placed to comment on how to achieve this
Bruno would be best placed to comment on how to achieve this
Bridging nCore?
Can Bruno confirm nCore400 can be bridged? Any limitation? Any wiring diagram to use 2 nCore per channel (my speakers are not bi-amplifiable)I think it will be a while before the audio community fully realizes what just happened. The amp community right now is like the people playing football with the iceblocks that just landed on the Titanic's deck.
When you consider the price, the size, the efficiency, no need for power conditioning, and the reported, towering performance beyond amps costing as much as a sports coupe, it's a threat on many levels. And they can even be bridged.
I hope Bruno is as generous in the future with diy dacs, etc, of the same caliber.
Can Bruno confirm nCore400 can be bridged? Any limitation? Any wiring diagram to use 2 nCore per channel (my speakers are not bi-amplifiable)
No problem for bridging two NC400, just in the same way as the UcDxxx modules.
Bridging nCore?
I understand output connection method but I have a doubt for input connection.
If I want to feed one module with phase-inverted signal, I suppose I need a device or a circuit to split the signal of each channel to feed both modules (one with non-inverted phase, the other with inverted phase). What circuit or device is suitable? Do a simple Y-wiring would do the job (too simple to be be true I guess 😕...)
I found the topic on how to bridge UcD modules.No problem for bridging two NC400, just in the same way as the UcDxxx modules.
I understand output connection method but I have a doubt for input connection.
If I want to feed one module with phase-inverted signal, I suppose I need a device or a circuit to split the signal of each channel to feed both modules (one with non-inverted phase, the other with inverted phase). What circuit or device is suitable? Do a simple Y-wiring would do the job (too simple to be be true I guess 😕...)
use a source/preamp with a balanced outputI found the topic on how to bridge UcD modules.
I understand output connection method but I have a doubt for input connection.
If I want to feed one module with phase-inverted signal, I suppose I need a device or a circuit to split the signal of each channel to feed both modules (one with non-inverted phase, the other with inverted phase). What circuit or device is suitable? Do a simple Y-wiring would do the job (too simple to be be true I guess 😕...)
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